Hi all,

question: does the switch that is mounted on the lever of the choke linkage on the TB serve any other purpose other than to activate the telltale yellow light on the dash cluster?

I cannot get the light to work and took the switch out to try and clean it up , but now I cannot for the life of me get it back in.

thanks

i believe its just an indicator ...sounds right to me

The switch is there only for the choke on warning light, and is left out on later models.

thank you again.

i am just battling to get the TPS set up correctly

I did notice after all my fiddling is that tha engine started first kick and idled at approx 1100rpm. I think i have the "choke" cable set too tight?

It should be a small amount of "dead" travel on the choke cable.

Check this document.

thank you will give that a go.



any special way to set up the TPS or butterfly switch?

set it up so it makes a clicking sound just as the throttle is opened?

RSMITH wrote:set it up so it makes a clicking sound just as the throttle is opened?

Correct, and check that you got connection between terminal 18 & 2 at closed throttle....and 18 & 3 at full throttle.

will give that a go. i see as per the link for adjusting you posted use the terminals?

thank you-

What I did have in mind, then you also would check that your switches also actually is functioning as they are meant to.....but it`s not that necessary.....

i can only get to hear the click when i turn the throttle just off closed position. i did a resync of the TB's and got the idle to be much smoother and at the correct speed of approx 1000rpm as shown on the bikes tachometer. ( it was idling too high at about 1500rpm before when the bike was warm )- now it is down. i reset the "choke" idle as per the document and I see that I now have a definite 2 stage "choke" function -(where as before only a slightly higher increase in rpm when I activated it).

when say continuity in the TB switch do you mean approx .05 ohms?

RSMITH wrote:when say continuity in the TB switch do you mean approx .05 ohms?

When measuring each of the switches in closed position, you should read 0,5 ohms or less.
In open position you should measure infinity ohms.

thank you for the help and information.

I started the bike up this morning to check and I am not sure again. the "choke" function now back to how it was at a single stage operation in position 1 and 2.



is this how it should be or am I just chasing echos again?

thanks

I don`t quite follow you, do you mean that it`s no differences in rpm`s,
in position 1 vs. position 2?

Could be that you got too much dead travel at your choke cable.
How much of the travel between position 0 and 1 is used before
the lever in the other end starts to move?

let me try clarify,

when the engine is at running temperature when i move the choke lever to position 1, the idle speed goes up by approx 500rpm to about 1500rpm , then I move it to position 2 , the idle speed goes up to approx 2000 rpm.

when the engine is cold and I start it up there is almost no difference in the increased idle speed, but I am pleased to say that the idle speed does increase to about 1200rpm to aid cold start and at least keep the engine at a reasonable cold idle speed.

I am sure that this is all in order and how it should be- so I am not going to worry too much about it.

we are going into winter here in SA and it can be "cold" for us- sometime night time temperature can get to about -3c, but it is dry no moisture in the air here. ( not like Europe I know - been there in winter in both Scotland and in Germany.- I was working in scotland during the winter so I am aware what cold can really be!)

I am going on a trip with a friend with the bike to western cape, bit of a holiday- I did the same sort of trip last year with my suzuki GS850G and mornings there can be COLD- and I dont want to have trouble. I think I will be alright though with regard to starting the K100 in the ealy cold mornings.

i am very much looking foward to riding the K ( nicebig fairing, heated grips- nice panniers ect) this time as I suffered last year with the cold open bike with a duffel bag tied down with rope, totallt inadequate clothing.-(which i have since aquired better riding gear recently when I was in Germany)

it must be added that I became an expert in the cold starting carb circut on my suzukis carburettors!

What you describe is normal. The 'choke' on a K is not really a choke like on bikes with carburetors, its an idle-speed-increase.
If you look at the fuel rack and you operate the choke handle the rack should move 1 mm (measure at the idle rev set screw). In the full open position it should have moved 2-2.5 mm.
Have fun on your trip, would have loved to come along!!

well come on then, pack the old passport, get on a plane and come out! i live close to airport so i can pick you up at the airport- UK citizens don't need a visa for SA for a holiday-you can ride my suzuki with pleasure, just need to top up oil with every petrol stop _( it does burn a bit of oil but it is by no means a "smoker")- I have since got a small screen for it so it should be better and have also since got some oxford soft panniers as well for you to use.

lol

im sure rene would love to......giggles

Oh yes I would!! Tried to get the opportunity to tour SA when I paid off in Durban one time. Regretfully I was not allowed to stay as the immigration demanded a 'letter of indemnity' from my company, which they wouldn't give (still wonder why ). So had to go home direct. Funnily enough I could come back on the next flight as a tourist and do the visit without issues if I wanted to. Go igure
Touring SA is definitely still on my wishlist!! Appreciate the offer!!

ne bother ! i always wanted to tour scotland on a bike when I lived there too. ( 2000-2004)



seriously if you want to come- you are most welcome.

I have finally got the switch back in to its rightful place.

I had to strip the airbox out and take off the fuel pressure regulator and take out the angle bar that holds the individual TB together, I retapped the threads on the bar and for the switch and got it back in nice and tight.

then while I had the cluster off- which i am trying all the cures as per this forum to sort out my "flaking" speedo I found the reason why the tell tale choke light would not work - the violet/white wire had snapped of f the female connector on the green multiplug- Presto Light working ! feeling good about that!

got a few other questions that I am first going to try get answers my self first before I go about wasting all you kind fellows time.



thanks