OK guys, back to report on progress Re: Give us a brake.

I ordered the pads (from Moto-bins, £8.75 a set) yesterday, they arrived this morning (nice! - internet shopping eh!). I made a few phone calls and had a fag and a cupa tea. I then took the two front calipers off (in turn) and changed the pads (ping, pang, pong went a few metal things as they came out! - and my eyes darted around the shed as though they were following a fly). I then gave everything a wash and brush up and put them back together (including the metal bits I found on the floor). Then I took the rear caliper off (to my suprise it DID come off as was suggested - I couldn't see how it was going to pass the wheel rim before been free of the disk) and did the same. I then bled the brakes front and rear (yep! me, I did it, no-one else). Then, I had another cupa tea and a fag and decided I better see if the things actually work. I gave both the kids a kiss and told them I loved 'em, same with the missis (honest), and fired the bike up and rode off. Then................................104 miles later I came back! Had a cupa tea and a fag, and thought to myself, 'well......they seem ok, think I might take it out again tmora' Job Done!

Er, well, almost.....I can't seem to get much pressure into the back brake. It works, but it's a bit er....soft. I've had a good look and there aint no leaks anywhere, and the pistons seemed ok (I had no problems moving them back when I changed the pads, so they're not seized or anything) Any ideas anyone? (the front brakes are a stack better than they were by the way). Thanks for your help everyone, Terry.

good work terry

possiblly another bleed for the rear master cyinder ....?

i gotta get me some braided lines .........

Well done Terry
see, amazing what a few fags can do.
Check the thickness of your rear disc ( I think 4 mm is supposed to be the limit), then rebleed the rear lines. Keep at it. I read somewhere that if you leave the cap off the rear reservoir overnight a few air bubbles might float them selves out.
RT

RT wrote:Well done Terry
see, amazing what a few fags can do.
Check the thickness of your rear disc ( I think 4 mm is supposed to be the limit), then rebleed the rear lines. Keep at it. I read somewhere that if you leave the cap off the rear reservoir overnight a few air bubbles might float them selves out.
RT

I'll do that tonight (ie: now). Thanks again for the advice. Must admit I thought I might try and bleed the brake again tomorrow, just to see if makes any difference. Will let you know. By the way, does anyone know how much oil I need to put in the gear box and final drive?

Terry as you pump the brakes hold the hoses especially near the swaged ends at the fittings to see if they are swelling as the brake is applied. You may even see a balloon in the hose when you repeatedly pump the brake.
I have found over the past few years quite a number of brake hoses that have been leaking into the outer lamination of the hose but not leaking onto the floor.
The rubber hoses have a lifetime of about 15 - 20 years and almost all the Ks are well past that time. I just renew with the stainless steel braides hose which is stronger and gives even better feel at the lever than the OEM.

Great accomplishment! Good job.
Next you will take the water pump apart and Blakey will be your advisor.

By experience, I can tell you that you cannot expect great performances from the back brake.

Well Mr Schmartee Pantz Crazy Frog , I am in the middle of refurbishing one as we speak! Having seen Charlie fix his, I will no doubt be successful in this adventure...I hope.

The only problem is, you won't know if you have done a good until you fit it to a bike and hopefully there will be no leaks!

According to Clymer
gearbox gets 850 mil and final drive gets 260 mil which is a pain because I only bought a litre at first, so needed
10mil more, now have a bottle with 990 mil. Fill the final drive up til the oil just touches the bottom of the filler hole, no more, no less.
Good work mate.
RT