Was 'removing my clutch plates, tried prying them out however I was
prying from the outside a bit before I noticed that I needed to pry from
the center out. Do you guys think that I damaged the plate at all? I
read that these plates are real sensitive also don't want any additional
vibration because of this screw up - I'm about to attempt the proper way from the inside maybe this time with a huge flat-head screwdriver, it sure is sticky. Keep you posted.



Also while removing the transmission, was kneeling with my elbows
resting on my legs; it didn't come out perfectly straight, should I
worry that I may have bent the Clutch Push Rod? or the housing it came
out of?

Love to hear your thoughts
Chris

Whack the bugger with a soft hammer in a circular fashion and she'll pop right out with ease, albeit, in several pieces. The clutch pushrod is well protected like a turtle's head. You did release the tension on it from the back end of the gearbox first....?

Guest in the House wrote:Whack the bugger with a soft hammer in a circular fashion and she'll pop right out with ease, albeit, in several pieces. The clutch pushrod is well protected like a turtle's head. You did release the tension on it from the back end of the gearbox first....?

Thanks GITH!

Sorry not sure what you mean by releasing tension. How do I do that?

Chris

You've first released the clutch cable, slid out the clutch release arm pin and pulled off the rubber boot and spring contained within...

Guest in the House wrote:You've first released the clutch cable, slid out the clutch release arm pin and pulled off the rubber boot and spring contained within...

Yes released the clutch cable originally, slid it out the hole of the Transmission so I don't rip it when I pulled the transmission off, and removed the spring contained (ripped the boot, nube mistake) but yes all was done beforehand.

TSBT wrote:Was 'removing my clutch plates, tried prying them out however I was
prying from the outside a bit before I noticed that I needed to pry from
the center out. Do you guys think that I damaged the plate at all? I
read that these plates are real sensitive also don't want any additional
vibration because of this screw up - I'm about to attempt the proper way from the inside maybe this time with a huge flat-head screwdriver, it sure is sticky. Keep you posted.



Also while removing the transmission, was kneeling with my elbows
resting on my legs; it didn't come out perfectly straight, should I
worry that I may have bent the Clutch Push Rod? or the housing it came
out of?

Love to hear your thoughts
Chris

Before disasembley the cluth, sign position of heavy parts (if you change only plate). It is factory balanced, keep it the same way.

While it is written and recommended that the clutch pieces be replaced in exact order I have not done so with no increased out-of-balance vibes present. Besides, what would one do if purchasing all new random parts....who you gunna call then? It just doesn't make sense to me that this is what's expected.

Guest in the House wrote:While it is written and recommended that the clutch pieces be replaced in exact order I have not done so with no increased out-of-balance vibes present. Besides, what would one do if purchasing all new random parts....who you gunna call then? It just doesn't make sense to me that this is what's expected.

Have heard this also from several sources, however you raise a great point. Looking for a marker right now that'll mark up a piece of steel. Wish I had one of those silver ones that work so well , I'll try black... Thanks again.

C

TSBT wrote:

Guest in the House wrote:While it is written and recommended that the clutch pieces be replaced in exact order I have not done so with no increased out-of-balance vibes present. Besides, what would one do if purchasing all new random parts....who you gunna call then? It just doesn't make sense to me that this is what's expected.

Have heard this also from several sources, however you raise a great point. Looking for a marker right now that'll mark up a piece of steel. Wish I had one of those silver ones that work so well , I'll try black... Thanks again.

C

It is reccomended to put news screws and new big nut. I ordered it from motorworks with transmission seal and big O ring which goes behind big nut. Tight on exact preload (there is special procedure for big nut - first time 140 nm, second time 95 nm).

Slowly

I just reused the 7mm screws after a through cleaning and used an ample dob of blue Loctite on each, and also reused the flange nut (30mm socket required). It is recommended the screws and star washers be replaced, but.

I recommend replacing the flange nut O-ring as well since it'll come out with great difficulty (use a pick) and will be quite brittle.

TSBT wrote:Looking for a marker right now that'll mark up a piece of steel. Wish I had one of those silver ones that work so well , I'll try black... Thanks again.

C

If you're married, raid your wife's nail polish collection. If you're not married, go to the local department store and buy a couple of bottles. Select a white and Ferrari red. Then paint alignment dots onto the clutch parts using various combinations of red and white. Make sure to catch the very thin spring plate between the larger, thicker clutch plates, as I found out by experience it was easy to miss marking this spring plate.

I have done many clutches and others I know have done some but only one was I able to be really sure it was in according to BMWs manual and it went back the same way. All the others I have done did not show any signs of extra vibration nor the ones that others have done.
Looking at the plates I would say they are ballanced as a pack so if possible keep it that way. When you buy new bits there is no compulsion to make you get all in a pack.

Ended up raiding my own art supplies, Orange oil pastel did the trick. ordered a used Clutch Friction Plate from a buddy of mine, original only had 4.2mm.

I also discovered oil in the engine output shaft hole after I took the clutch and old O-ring off, I assume this is normal? hope there isn't an additional seal I have to replace inside the engine block or alternatively transmission input. :pale:

TSBT wrote:Ended up raiding my own art supplies, Orange oil pastel did the trick. ordered a used Clutch Friction Plate from a buddy of mine, original only had 4.2mm.

I also discovered oil in the engine output shaft hole after I took the clutch and old O-ring off, I assume this is normal? hope there isn't an additional seal I have to replace inside the engine block or alternatively transmission input. :pale:

Yes, there is a main seal. Better to change when you already there. Change the seal on side of transmission too

Noobie Question. How do i stop the rotating flywheel when trying to undo the bolts on the clutch ?

captaink

There is a tool for (steel strip with slotted holes), however putting a hammer handle through one of the holes in the flywheel should help.

Cheers Renez,

going to have another go. It always seems to look and sound easy..... perhaps it is and i'm just kak handed

captaink

Good luck!

Make sure the socket head in the bolt is clean so the full depth of the socket is used otherwise they turn the hex out very easily.