Is that the bike we saw for sale last week?
Looks very nice.

Yes Art, Excuse my fumbling with the forum. My wife and I unloaded the bike last night, when I got back from TX. With a little battery charging I got it to start. Between sitting and condensation I consider that good news. Would not respond to throttle accelleration, and would die. But it runs and starts. A good first step.

UJ

I was doing alot of reading this morning. I am soliciting suggestions for where to start. This morning after sitting in a warm garage and having the battery charged she started right up with the half choke and idled. I can hear the valve train, the fuel pump. When I give her the slightest amount of throttle, I can hear one of the cylinders not fire. If I persist on the throttle, she completely dies. Idles and starts like a champ. I know the battery is an 18A/h wet cell battery but it does get her started. What is my next move here. Thoughts?

UJ

maybe a few things uj

first that comes to mind is possibly the tps (possibly it is shorted out ?)

i would dissconnect it and see if she revs up past 2000

without any other information is just a guess

many things need to be checked though

fuel delivery ...presure ...spark leads breaking down ...spark plugs can give a clue to state of tune , rich- lean

crankcase breather to plenum .. rotten fuel ...etc ...so many things that can be seen by eye

Well, reading from my friendly Clymer:

a. Improper timing

b. Improperly gapped plugs

c. Defective spark plug wires

d. Loose or corroded electrical connections in ignition system

e. Bad fuel pump or fuel injectors

f. Fuel system pressure regulator not functioning properly

g. Weak or faulty fuel injection control unit

h. Obstucted fuel line

Thank you Charlie and AJ

I will look into these things.

After reading responses, Clymer, forums etc, I suppose I will start with a good cleaning and inspection. I will try a quick jolt of starting fluid around the throttle body the momento I give it the gas to see if I am sucking air some where. If that doesn't catch a fish, I'll look in and under the tank at connections and fuel delivery filter and pump. The TPS is a good start as well, thanks to all for the guidance and hand holding. I will also then be able to look and hoses and rubber for possible vacuum leaks.

Uncle Jim

Well done guys, I like that silvery grey (matches my hair).
Pull the spark plugs one at a time and have a look, one of them might be different (wet, black, white) and if so work back from it through the ignition lead, no breaks or shorting,
check the connection of it to the coil.
Also check the spark plug caps, make sure those little metal
screwon tops are there as shorts can occur in the top of the cap. Check for Grunge and don't let Inge see how dirty they are.
Cheers
RT

Put a new filter in first up and make sure the pre pump filter is not full of crud.

Hmm...it run at idle, but dies with the smallest amount of throttle.....
Just been standing at the airport parking for some weeks....
Much mice or similar creatures in that area?
Check the hose between the plenum and airfilter housing.

Will do, thank you.

Hose between plenum (engine case) and air box.

Fuel Filter and tank inspection

Clean relays and connections with Caigs

I have homework.

UJ

Thank you to all who have given advice on this thread. And thanks to those who helped me with parts. What we did find were the following things:
The battery was the wrong size and was an 18 amp/hr. So just to take that out of the equation we got the BMW 25amp/hr unit. There was a faulty earth on the Throttle body sensor, BMW analysis machine narrowed the search down. Hard to find, easy to fix. The breather tube to the crankcase was cracked on the back side. Replaced this
Most strangely the timing was 16 degrees off. Previous Owner trying to fiddle.
I took her for a nice 37 deg. F 40mile run this morning. She ran great.
Some noted observations on the maiden voyage:
1987 Columbia Grey K75S
The Instrument Pod seems to wobble much more that the K100rs. Odd? (I will search forum on this)
Speedo seem to not register the proper speed, my wife who was following me said I was going 5 to 8 mph slower than I thought I was going. So the speedo seems not to be calibrated (I will search forum on this)
The K 75 throttle had no return resistance on it like the K100. I can let go of the throttle on the K100 without loosing speed. For Peggy, I will look for hand protectors, heated grips. She also thinks the handle bar postition is too forward.
The experience of having ridden both bikes for the first time was great.
Thanks again for the input.
Jim

The low cost alternative to heated grips is Hippo Hands an insulated cover for the hands and keeps the rain off, don't look great but really keep the wind off, or get heated gloves which are more effective than grips because the grip only heats the inside of the hand and fingers and it is the outside that gets cold.
Regards,
K-BIKE

tio Jaimito wrote:
Some noted observations on the maiden voyage:

The Instrument Pod seems to wobble much more that the K100rs. Odd? (I will search forum on this)

BMW put some (usually three pads) of foam between the instruments and the fairing, front centre panel. These crumble away or disappear in some other way.

I use a 3M self-adhesive foam tape in its place. It stops the bouncing without holding it so rigid that the insides get shaken to bits:

tio Jaimito wrote:The K 75 throttle had no return resistance on it like the K100. I can let go of the throttle on the K100 without loosing speed.
Jim

There's a cheap fix from BMW (and some other suppliers). Some may call it an early cruise control, others call it a throttle stop screw:



Look under the throttle assembly and you should see a pale coloured plastic plug. Skewer it out and the thread is there to take the screw.



It's a simple friction device, adjustable for how much resistance the rider wants in the throttle return and (here at least) very cheap.

BMW Part# 32 72 1 454 414