I am beginning to think that there is something electronic holding the two bolts of the centre stand onto it's carrier! I have tried all sorts impact driver penetrant fluid etc but neither of them want to start turning.... Is using heat a possibility? If so where would i heat up the bolt or the support?

Heat probably will work but not past the just red stage or you woll soften the forging.

Try soaking it in vinegar for a couple of days or even molassys watered at about 10 water 1 molassys it will disolve the rust if it manages to penentrate.

Rust is a big problem for making things sieze because 1mm of steel gives 25mm of rust.

Those bolts also is secured with Loctite from the factory.
I would first have tried to heat the support and freeze spray on the bolts.

Inge K.

I had mine loosened at a muffler shop. They took an acetylene torch and heated the bolt almost red hot. It came out very easily immediately after that. I believe that Inge is right; the factory uses Locktite Red to secure the bolts to the casting and heating breaks that bond.

I got the blow torch on it just before i came to work, took a couple of mins to heat it up didnt go so far as getting it red hot though, it came apart with one hit of the impact driver.

I could visably see loctite in there, was of the blue variety... I think at some stage someone has had a play around with the center and side stand casue the bolts appear to not have the bushes as show in the diagrams, that or they are self welded on which is a possibility, think i may replace them as there is a fair amount of play, also found there is a bush missing for the sidestand so will be ordering that as well!

good result twincarb ......

twincarb wrote:I could visably see loctite in there, was of the blue variety...

Factory manual recommends Loctite 242, which is blue and medium strength.
Loctite technical data sheet says heat to 250ºC, if normal handtools don`t function.

Inge K.

Inge, where do you get all this stuff????



You're like the Cliff Claven of the forum

Thanks!.....some googligo.....and to much time on the different forums....feels like most at home on this one.

Inge K.

twincarb wrote:...also found there is a bush missing for the sidestand so will be ordering that as well!

I wrote up in one of my threads about manufacturing my own bushing as an alternative to the BMW bushing. I think it was the thread on the self-retracting sidestand. I used a commonly available bronze bushing and cut it down to length such that it took out play in the sidestand.

Robmack, I bet you didnt create and log full engineering diagrams did you



Guess i will have to get my micrometer out and measure acurately! (May just phone BMW and see what they will charge for a new bolt and bush...)

10,5 x 16,0 x 12,2 mm (id x od x l) ....sidestand.

10,0 x 19,9 x 25,8 mm -"- ....centerstand.
Recessed for countersunk screw and a groove 1,4mm wide 0,5mm deep
(2,5mm from end bushing to center of groove) for the circlip.

Inge K.

try motobins



http://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=K Series

I didn't create any engineering drawings, unfortunately. I'm not that organized. Manufacturing your own bushing is simple; I don't have any machine tools at my disposal so most should be able to accomplish this with hand tools.

I bought a 3/8" x 5/8" x 3/4" (0.375" x 0.625" x 0.75") bronze bushing from a bearing company. Bushings here are SAE and not metric (which is weird considering Canada is a metric country).

I used a hack saw and file to cut the bushing length down to a size that was a friction fit between the tangs of the sidestand arm. I then reamed out the centre hole on a drill press to 10mm to exactly fit the pivot bolt. This new bushing has taken out much of the original slop in the sidestand but not all of it. I'm hoping that the bronze bearing will work long term in such a severe operating environment (rain, grime, road dirt, lack of regular lubrication, etc.)