jud the high crank amps ...means the battery has a large plate surface area ....not many plates ...(which is the guide to battery "grunt")
do you have any experience with car batteries .....you might remember that the "13 plate " type car battereies are better for starting ...hard to start type motors in high temps, usually finicky v8 s and stuff ....usually when they break down, have vapor locks and some such .
but to be honest i dont think that, if you have a reliable motor start process that you should worry about that so much ...unless you have lots of accessories that you run whilst the engine is turned off .
lets face it,,,, battery plating disolves at the same rate and weather you have a 8,9,10,11,12 or 13 plate battery it really doesnt matter ,,with the current production practices ...you should expect it to die within 3-5 years . the local guys are promoting chloride type batteries lately rather that the lead acid types that we are all farmiliar with.......(i really dont have much experience with these newbys)
but they all promote the low maintenance batteries
just get a good lead acid type ...dont forget to take off the breather bungs every now and then (refilling with deminerailised water ,,,before a reasonable trip ) ...care of the battery is in your best interest if you want long lasting ...cleaning the terminals to assure a good charge is most important and making sure there is a charging process happening regularly ( as batteries self discharge regardless of other factors ...you just have to know the rate ).
for our poor northern friends they have many months where riding is not an option ....but we are blessed with the ability to ride year round
i'd just go with something conventional and reasonably priced ...as you will have to do the process again some time soonish .