Hi guys thought I'd do the right thing and change the oil and filter ( 2000 km in 6 months )
Drained the oil and nearly pulled the bike off the main stand ( this should of warned me )
Next lets drop the oil filter cover same again offing tight ( checked for lock tight none so the mechanic must have a rattle gun )
Ok ready to drop the filter hmmmmm that don't look right back to the manual over to oem parts nothing zippo matches my filter.
Check out a "R" 100RS filter on motor works ( can't hurt ) BINGO thats what I've got , so thinking ok just remove the filter
and bolt should be no problems then fit the Ryco filter . ....... Put the socket on ( yes correct size and direction) try to undo
the bolt ok maybe he used rattle gun here too bit more force and started to round the head . Any suggestions how to remove??
Figured 2000k filter should be good till next oil change . Spark plugs were the same bloody tight just need some Deoxit for the caps

cheers Tony

I ended up removing the sump to get mine off for the same reasons. I don't think I could have got the old one any tighter with a welder! On the plus side the sump is easy to get off.



With the sump off the filter is completly exposed. I drove a screw driver through mine in the end (being carefull to miss casting as it went through) as it was so tight a filter wrench was crushing the case!



Peter

crikey toto......ouch ...sounds like a mechanics revenge or something ...



worst case i could think of, is to drop the oil pan (yucky ) so you can see the oil filter ........select a nice big long screwdriver ,.,,drill holes in each side of the filter about slightly smaller than the screwdriver and more towards the top of the filter to miss the mounting parts ,, perforate the rest of the holes from each side with the screwdriver ....and then jam that sucker through the body of the filter ...you will find that the extra leverage will enable it to be undone .. (maybe a hammer can be used to gently tap through the body if you cant get it to line up )



theres a proceedure for tightening the oil filter ....guess this guy wasnt thinking



mostly the rubber seal at the bottom binds with the bottom (top) of the mounting -sealing flange ...and can be a bugga to get mooving especially when compressed so much

its really only there to form a seal and additionally stop it from rotating off the feed tube.



i have done this several times on newly acquired machines when the service history has been ...um....doubtfull

Thanks for the replies guys that was my thought about dropping the sump too
but the weather was too much temptation for a ride

snap peter !!!! great minds huh ?

oh btw guys the filter is like an "R" model just a filter no metal casing and a bolt up the centre its this bolt that the head is cactus if I try to get at it with the sump on as its already rounding !!!

Got no idea for the bolt,....if it`s looking like an old style R filter, it`s strange that you got oil pressure.

Inge K.

what the ????!!! sounds strange to me

I think I would still drop the sump and get some vice grips on the bolt to get it off. Please post a picture of what you find as that sounds very strange. I can't see how that type of filter would work as the oil would just bypass into the sump I would think. Are you sure its not a bolt head like hex on the end of the filter case? Thats what the early filters were like.





Peter

One good picture would be worth a thousand painful words. What you're describing doesn't make sense to the mechanical bits of my mind as the engine would be knocking to beat the band with an exposed, pleated filter without a case to contain it and for the oil to properly build pressure. The rods and mains would have starved of oil a long, long time ago as the oil flowed freely through the paper element straight into the oil pan. An Airhead R100R, and the like, have a metal cannister around the oil filter that's pressed sideways into the aluminium engine block. Oil runs in under pressure through the filter and comes out (hopefully) cleaner at the same end, but through a different orifice. A ball and spring in the engine case inside the cannister act as a check valve should absolute maximum pressure be achieved through clogging and with the bearings about to starve, the theory being that dirty oil is better than no oil on the moving metal bits. So you see a case is absolutely essential around our filters buried deep within the sump.

As for getting the really stuck filters off, I often just drive a long screwdriver carefully into the end of the filter case at an angle sufficient to allow some leverage but not so far in that it pierces through the other side. Allow the dirty oil to drain for a while down the handle then wipe it off and have a go at twisting it until it breaks free. Use hammer force if necessary. Re-pierce the filter a few times to get a good purchase on it if you have to. Mechanical advantage; it's what separates us from most animals.

ok thanks for the info it didn't make sense to me either so hopefully its just an old style filter from Noahs ark as I couldn't get a finger inside either I'll see how I go next time thanks for all the input on a side note are iridium plugs worth running on a K ?

The oil filter that was previously installed sounds like the type with the pressed steel hex on the end which resembles a nut, it is spot welded to the filter casing, it doesn't pass through the filter at all. If you own a cup tool for the filter, drill 2 clearance holes in it about 60 mm apart, then get 2 large self drilling screws like tech screws and screw through the holes into the filter casing. Now unscrew the filter. Check that the old seal rubber comes off with the filter. Now take your new Ryco Z418 filter and smear some clean grease on the seal rubber. Fill the filter with engine oil and cover with clean plastic. Pass the filter under the engine with the plastic cover in place. Once under the hole in the crankcase, take the plastic away and install the filter. Don't over-tighten it, about 2/3 of a turn after the faces contact is plenty. Remember - be clean and careful, any grit in the engine and bad things will happen !

Thanks Dennis just been going over my history today must had a seniors moment it was a MAN truck filter I was looking at Mine looked the same as (what I could see) much like you describe . I was looking at oil centrifuge cleaners for size thinking could retro fit to the beast but discovered they are really only useful for soot in the oil Oh well back to the learning again.
Thanks to all for the help and suggestions

Two Wheels Better wrote:One good picture would be worth a thousand painful words. What you're describing doesn't make sense to the mechanical bits of my mind as the engine would be knocking to beat the band with an exposed, pleated filter without a case to contain it and for the oil to properly build pressure. The rods and mains would have starved of oil a long, long time ago as the oil flowed freely through the paper element straight into the oil pan. An Airhead R100R, and the like, have a metal cannister around the oil filter that's pressed sideways into the aluminium engine block. Oil runs in under pressure through the filter and comes out (hopefully) cleaner at the same end, but through a different orifice. A ball and spring in the engine case inside the cannister act as a check valve should absolute maximum pressure be achieved through clogging and with the bearings about to starve, the theory being that dirty oil is better than no oil on the moving metal bits. So you see a case is absolutely essential around our filters buried deep within the sump.

As for getting the really stuck filters off, I often just drive a long screwdriver carefully into the end of the filter case at an angle sufficient to allow some leverage but not so far in that it pierces through the other side. Allow the dirty oil to drain for a while down the handle then wipe it off and have a go at twisting it until it breaks free. Use hammer force if necessary. Re-pierce the filter a few times to get a good purchase on it if you have to. Mechanical advantage; it's what separates us from most animals.

Could this be it http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PC-RACING-FLO-REUSABLE-OIL-FILTER-90-93-BMW-K1100-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27b44d77d7QQitemZ170528700375QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

This worked for Me...Bang it into the filter....with a tray under....what have you to lose.

Ajays

@KF, could be...something I'd file, for the sake of our bikes, under the heading of 'why bother'.

I have used the reusable filters in dirt bikes, and given I was changing the oil every 5 hours and cleaning the filter at the same time it was very cost effective. But for a raod bike with much longer changes intervils I'm not so sure. And do they work as well? I had no problems with the engine after 100 hours, but got very fine metal out of the filter every time I cleaned it, and who knows if thats caused by poor filtration or is normal.

My guess is as mentioned above you have the filter type with the fake bolt spot welded onto the top, the rounding off sounds very much like to thin sheet metal of the fake bolt just folding away under pressure. The spikes through the filter tool as shown should get the swine off but worst come to the worst take the sump off and either spike it with a crew driver or I would favour a pair of large slip joint vice grips and with those you can really get a good squeeze on the cannister.
Regards,
K-BIKE

I once used one of those K&N oil filters with the spot-welded nut on it. Once I used it was all I needed to convince me that it would be just the once. It rounded off the first time I tried to loosen it, and the oil filter tool doesn't fit properly to get a good purchase on the filter body. It went in the bin along with the idea that I'd ever use one of them again. You don't have to tell me twice, well, on most things. My 'significant other' calls it selective hearing.

Those reuseable filters started of being a bling thing for the harley brigade and expanded out for a lot of other bikes.

The filter used IMO would not do anywhere near as good a job as the original type it looks very much like the same material used in the reuseable K&N air filters which is not very good.

Ajays wrote:This worked for Me...Bang it into the filter....with a tray under....what have you to lose.

Ajays

I used a similar thing but with 4 self drilling screws and never got an arguement from a filter again.

Crazy Frog has something similar to Ajay's stubborn filter removal tool. Necessity being the mother of invention, there's that mechanical advantage thing poppin' up its head again.

Well its finally changed had to drop the sump . Never buy a K&N 163 powersport even that was bloody tight .. bent 1 screw driver so bought a ring type puller 1 full turn before able to spin it off. The K&N overall height is 90 mm less the nut and flange makes it 75 mm compared to a ryco 89 mm height , it only just clears the bottom of the motor with sump removed . Also it is recommended 7/8 of a turn on a K&N think the mechanic tried seven or eight turns
thanks for all the advice guys least it won't be a drama next oil change.

Well done Toto, great result!
Regards,
K-BIKE