Right hand fork is leaking, so am going to replace both of them anyway.
Has anyone got a list of the correct parts to acquire before the job begins? Seals/dust covers/boots. What about crush washers/other o-rings etc? Always something seems to get overlooked!!

Hi there,

I recently change the fork seal on my k100, all I did was replace the actuall seal, cleaned the dust covers etc and changed the oil. If you contact a reputable supplier - Sherlocks - motobins - motorworks etc, they will be more likely to supply the correct seal / kit for your bike. They sell them as pairs, as a time or two have seen single seals on ebay so that they appear cheaper. I think they are standard 41mm stanchion on most k's but the experts will know by model/year. I re-used my dust covers and copper washer for fork oil drain, no probs so far - hope this is of help.

Ian

Great info! Cheaper the better! Thanks for that. Did you use 10w oil?
The bike wasn't particularly well maintained until I bought it, so I'm thinking that the forks might not have had any love for a long time. This is why I'm wondering if there is anything else in there that might fall out, or that it would be false economy not to replace. I prefer having all the parts at the start of a job rather than dis-assemble and order then. Seems to take forever if I do that and I don't have days to spend on it!

Hi , I used 10w jack oil and so far seems ok. it pays to flush through a little oil to clear old oil & grime, remember to undo the top allen key bolts to let air in oil out when you do it, also some cardbouard to deflect oil getting on to you tyre etc.
I have a couple of K's and one has had a weeping seal for a while, so long as there is no oil dripping over the brake & tyres then i get by, unless it gets bouncy! It sounds like this is new to you this bike? my advice would be to use the bike a while as long as there are no safety issues and then give it a good overhaul - winter time is good if you dont use it through the winter ready then for some trips in the spring.
most jobs can take a short time to do if you can find out how others have done so, heres a great forum to find that out.

ian

I have just done the seals in mine last weekend. Didn't need any other parts. I used ATF as thats what I had in stock and it seems to work very well. I have done 250km since and it seems as good as the fork oil that came out. It may be easy to disassemble forks on a RS without removing them but on my RT the fairing makes access to the top of the forks poor, so I just took the forks out. Only 2 more bolts and then all the oily work can be done on the bench.

Just ordered new seals and hopefully they'll be here tomorrow and I'll bung them in
The dust seals are splitting so bought gaiters to fit while I'm at it
Have some 7.5 oil to add too.
The bike just passed the MOT with an advisory on one seal so its high time theyre done

Done em !
Pretty easy really
I put some fork gaiters on too
BMW ones for the K didnt seem to be available but I found ones for a
Mk3 Norton Commando fitted nicely and were inexpensive.

I just dropped the sliders at first but as said, it was easier to remove the stanchions
to add the oil

I Like the paintwork to your wheels. Is this something you did or were they like it when you got the bike? nice idea for the gaiters too.

Thats the way it came and AFAIK std 87RS wheels

What did puzzle me was looking in the manual,
it said K's have Fichtel and Sachs or Showa forks
My forks have Brembo embossed on the sliders
just like the calipers.
Huh?

Yes, my 85rt also has Brembo on the forks which has me scratching my head as well.

Hello all!

reg_K100RS wrote:Thats the way it came and AFAIK std 87RS wheels

It was only two years K100`s came with black wheels, on limited production models (1000 each year).
In -86, K100RS "motorsport" in white pearl with "M" stripes, and -87 K100RS "special" ,all black except
the grey seat.
The difference from a std. RS was, Pirelli radials, other shock absorber and fork (K75S) and tinted screen.
Black engine and footrests on both, and also black gearbox and final drive on the "special".

And about gaiters, one used on some R models fits very good BMW 31 42 1 234 908,
upper clamp 07 12 9 952 121, lower clamp 07 12 9 952 123.
Beware the small vent hole on top, insert a roll pin or similar so it don`t get squeezed shut when the
clamp being tightened.

Inge K.