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An Olympic Peninsula Day Ride Mon Oct 07, 2024 10:05 pm
Two Wheels Better
Moderator
"Oh, my ways are strange ways and new ways and old ways, And deep ways and steep ways and high ways and low, I'm at home and at ease on a track that I know not, And restless and lost on a road that I know." ~ Henry Lawson
With absolutely no thought to the lofty quote above, I plotted a route. It's a familiar one, really, there are only so many ways one can traverse the loop around the Olympic mountains of the most north west of the US' Pacific North West. Washington state Highway 108 takes you off Highway 101 just west of the State Capitol of Olympia (apropos), and heads you towards the coast, past towns like Satsop, Montesano, and on into Aberdeen (Kurt Cobain's hometown) where the welcome sign reads "Come As You Are." Nudge, wink.
It was barely 42 degrees - but forecast to reach the low 70s - in them Fahrenheits at a quarter past seven this morning. I rugged up with layers, eschewing the 12V heated jacket liner for a good base layer and some Gore-texy thing beneath my sturdy and faithful riding jacket. My glasses fogged a bit inside the helmet but the Pinloc visor kept the outer visor clear. I rolled through patches of heavy fog, the temps dropping, and back into what my Alaska mate Mike calls "blue clouds" of morning sunshine in the otherwise cloudy sky. By Aberdeen, one hour and ten minutes down the road, I was ready for a second cuppa and a nibble. Traffic was not heavy and I'd made good time. My plan was to take Hwys 108 & 101 in a clockwise direction, following the Pacific coast for a while before turning east after the town of Forks (think Twilight & vampires, but none will be found) and roll back east past Sol Duc hot springs, around Lake Crescent, Port Angeles and Sequim (Skwim) on the Strait of Juan de Fuca, then cross the Hood Canal and head south to home in the Tacoma area.
Canadia, in all its glory, lies just across that storied body of water. I could see lots of cloud cover over there on Vancouver Island. I rode on smugly, knowing I had sunshine and it was warming up nicely all around, and they had the rain, which they intend to share with us tonight and for the rest of the week!
My first stop just before arriving at the coast.
The Quinalt Lodge is tucked away a few miles from the main road, and sits beside a tranquil lake. I needed fuel for the bike.
Kalaloch Lodge (below) where one can rent a cabin or stay in the lodge, is a fine spot for a quick stop, or an overnighter. The beach is inviting, the waves calming. Don't expect all oranges and sunshine out there, however, as logging reigns supreme still, and the slapdash clear cutting of trees, like a bad haircut, is everywhere. I saw one sign that labelled it a "working forest." I understand the intent, but I reckon nature and the good lord above didn't plot out monoculture as a sustainable practice over the eons. Go save a spotted owl then, I hear from the cheap seats. Touche.
North on 101 there are numerous turnouts where you can catch a glimpse of the cold, dark Northern Pacific. Camp in the scrub pines or the tall pines on either side of the highway, with state and federally-run campgrounds aplenty.
The town of Forks, the largest in the area north of the Hoh rainforest, was/is a logging town cum tourist town. Apparently, the Twilight books & films, draw folk from around the world. It's full of modest motels, a few cafes, the usual north west drive-up coffee joints, and a coupla trailer parks. I'm gunna go out on a limb and suggest there's also a bit of an opioid problem in that otherwise sleepy little burg. You'll also see a fair few red and blue political flags flapping endlessly like the gums do, full of hope that a particular someone with strong arm tactics is gunna save us.
Once you clear the town, the road opens up and you can get a move on, a speed limit of 60 mph is kinda-sorta observed, with most drivers on 70. I had plenty of places to overtake, but traffic was light, befitting a Monday during back to school and work times. Here, magnificent Lake Crescent.
A quick stop in Port Angeles for a mid-arvo lunch break and I was under two hours from home. It was time to join the commuters. It ends up being about 345 miles all up. I rode for six hours and a bit, and had over three hours to stop, relax, have a cuppa, take a psss & some piccies, and generally enjoy the sights. I usually do this on my birthday in early June. I think I might make it a twice a year thing, such a head-clearing, mental task organising, spirit of mini-adventure time I have out there.
With absolutely no thought to the lofty quote above, I plotted a route. It's a familiar one, really, there are only so many ways one can traverse the loop around the Olympic mountains of the most north west of the US' Pacific North West. Washington state Highway 108 takes you off Highway 101 just west of the State Capitol of Olympia (apropos), and heads you towards the coast, past towns like Satsop, Montesano, and on into Aberdeen (Kurt Cobain's hometown) where the welcome sign reads "Come As You Are." Nudge, wink.
It was barely 42 degrees - but forecast to reach the low 70s - in them Fahrenheits at a quarter past seven this morning. I rugged up with layers, eschewing the 12V heated jacket liner for a good base layer and some Gore-texy thing beneath my sturdy and faithful riding jacket. My glasses fogged a bit inside the helmet but the Pinloc visor kept the outer visor clear. I rolled through patches of heavy fog, the temps dropping, and back into what my Alaska mate Mike calls "blue clouds" of morning sunshine in the otherwise cloudy sky. By Aberdeen, one hour and ten minutes down the road, I was ready for a second cuppa and a nibble. Traffic was not heavy and I'd made good time. My plan was to take Hwys 108 & 101 in a clockwise direction, following the Pacific coast for a while before turning east after the town of Forks (think Twilight & vampires, but none will be found) and roll back east past Sol Duc hot springs, around Lake Crescent, Port Angeles and Sequim (Skwim) on the Strait of Juan de Fuca, then cross the Hood Canal and head south to home in the Tacoma area.
Canadia, in all its glory, lies just across that storied body of water. I could see lots of cloud cover over there on Vancouver Island. I rode on smugly, knowing I had sunshine and it was warming up nicely all around, and they had the rain, which they intend to share with us tonight and for the rest of the week!
My first stop just before arriving at the coast.
The Quinalt Lodge is tucked away a few miles from the main road, and sits beside a tranquil lake. I needed fuel for the bike.
Kalaloch Lodge (below) where one can rent a cabin or stay in the lodge, is a fine spot for a quick stop, or an overnighter. The beach is inviting, the waves calming. Don't expect all oranges and sunshine out there, however, as logging reigns supreme still, and the slapdash clear cutting of trees, like a bad haircut, is everywhere. I saw one sign that labelled it a "working forest." I understand the intent, but I reckon nature and the good lord above didn't plot out monoculture as a sustainable practice over the eons. Go save a spotted owl then, I hear from the cheap seats. Touche.
North on 101 there are numerous turnouts where you can catch a glimpse of the cold, dark Northern Pacific. Camp in the scrub pines or the tall pines on either side of the highway, with state and federally-run campgrounds aplenty.
The town of Forks, the largest in the area north of the Hoh rainforest, was/is a logging town cum tourist town. Apparently, the Twilight books & films, draw folk from around the world. It's full of modest motels, a few cafes, the usual north west drive-up coffee joints, and a coupla trailer parks. I'm gunna go out on a limb and suggest there's also a bit of an opioid problem in that otherwise sleepy little burg. You'll also see a fair few red and blue political flags flapping endlessly like the gums do, full of hope that a particular someone with strong arm tactics is gunna save us.
Once you clear the town, the road opens up and you can get a move on, a speed limit of 60 mph is kinda-sorta observed, with most drivers on 70. I had plenty of places to overtake, but traffic was light, befitting a Monday during back to school and work times. Here, magnificent Lake Crescent.
A quick stop in Port Angeles for a mid-arvo lunch break and I was under two hours from home. It was time to join the commuters. It ends up being about 345 miles all up. I rode for six hours and a bit, and had over three hours to stop, relax, have a cuppa, take a psss & some piccies, and generally enjoy the sights. I usually do this on my birthday in early June. I think I might make it a twice a year thing, such a head-clearing, mental task organising, spirit of mini-adventure time I have out there.
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"How many cars did we pass today?" "ALL of them."
1977 R75/7-100, '93 K11/K12 Big Block, '93 K1100RS, '95 R100 Mystic, '96 K1100RS, 2 x '98 K1200RS, '06 K1200R & '09 K1300GT
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