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1Back to top Go down   Oil flush, is it needed? Empty Oil flush, is it needed? Fri Oct 30 2009, 07:55

sandman jim

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hi..shortly i will be changing the engine oil and filter on my k100rs before i do the bike has stood for 8 years,, do i need to flush the engine if i do which is the best way to do this and which stuff is best to use i will be changing the gearbox oil as well...............when i collected bike i rode it 10 mile home she smoked quite a  bit like a white very light blue smoke for 6 mile then it cleared and she used no water...regards  jim   Oil flush, is it needed? Icon_smile  Oil flush, is it needed? Icon_smile  Oil flush, is it needed? Icon_smile

    

2Back to top Go down   Oil flush, is it needed? Empty Re: Oil flush, is it needed? Fri Oct 30 2009, 08:05

Crazy Frog

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I don't recommend flushing, but I would replace the oil and filter, ride for 500k and then replace oil and filter again.


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Oil flush, is it needed? Frog15Oil flush, is it needed? Logo2101986 k75, 1985 K100rt, 1985 K100rt/EML GT2 sidecar, 1999 K1200lt/Hannigan Astro Sport sidecar.
    

3Back to top Go down   Oil flush, is it needed? Empty Re: Oil flush, is it needed? Fri Oct 30 2009, 14:25

K-BIKE

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Hi Jim,
I am a strong enthusiast for cleaning up old engines using high quality diesel engine oil like Shell Rimula or similar. Do NOT use flushing agents you risk destroying your engine because if they release clumps of crud those can block oil galleries and cause oil starvation. I have a friend who was an engine reconditioner and he told me he has lost count of the engines he got to rebuild from just that cause.
The diesel oil has a high soot carrying and detergent nature and gently lifts the deposits off so the filter can pull them out. Use a top quality filter as Bert says for the first 500 miles of preferably hot running (take a long trip. And change the oil and filter again putting the correct viscosity diesel engine oil in again. Any diesel oil recommended for mixed fleets is the way to go.
Regards,
K-BIKE

    

4Back to top Go down   Oil flush, is it needed? Empty Re: Oil flush, is it needed? Fri Dec 18 2009, 08:49

Ajays

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I bought a K75s cheap I used Slick50 from Halfords A good way to flush out your motor.

PS. Starter motor Brushes can give all manner of unexplained electrical
problem if worn low.

    

5Back to top Go down   Oil flush, is it needed? Empty Re: Oil flush, is it needed? Sat Dec 19 2009, 03:32

blaKey

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I personally would take the whole sump pan off and give it a really good clean. You may get a bit of a shock to see what is in there!


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Neil
K100RS 1986 RED!

Dress for the ride and the potential slide.
    

6Back to top Go down   Oil flush, is it needed? Empty Re: Oil flush, is it needed? Tue Dec 22 2009, 18:36

K-BIKE

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Hi Guys,
I would strongly suggest you DON'T use any PTFE based engine treatment in your engine. There is a wealth of info on the net about them. Your mileage may vary as they say.
Regards,
K-BIKE

    

roys

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blakey wrote:I personally would take the whole sump pan off and give it a really good clean. You may get a bit of a shock to see what is in there!

Have a look at the befor and after pics.

http://cid-a5226878da38d80a.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/K100%20shared/Technical%20shots%20documentations/Oil%20Pan%20July%202009




Roy

    

8Back to top Go down   Oil flush, is it needed? Empty Re: Oil flush, is it needed? Sat May 01 2010, 07:45

Ned

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Old thread, but...
I've found this on a Goldwing site. It is a formula to do an engine flush to free up rings and remove general crap.

I have no idea if it works, but it may be useful to some people:

.......

  1. Fill crankcase with a 50/50 mix of cheap 30W and Dextron auto
    transmission fluid.


  2. Start engine and run for 20 minutes at 3500 - 4000 rpms on the
    center stand...DO NOT RIDE with this mixture in crankcase...any
    loading might damage your engine. This will clean your engine
    internals and free-up rings. Don't be alarmed...your engine
    may SMOKE quite a bit with this mixture!


  3. While the engine is warm, drain this oil mixture.


  4. Replace oil filter (again).


  5. Refill crankcase with high quality, motorcycle-spec 10W-40 oil...


There is a lot more here : http://www.randakks.com/TechTip24.htm

    

9Back to top Go down   Oil flush, is it needed? Empty Re: Oil flush, is it needed? Sat May 01 2010, 09:05

Crazy Frog

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A buddy (professional mechanic and K100 rider) had a problem with the sprag clutch on the K100. He flushed the engine with this mix and solved the starter problem.


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Oil flush, is it needed? Frog15Oil flush, is it needed? Logo2101986 k75, 1985 K100rt, 1985 K100rt/EML GT2 sidecar, 1999 K1200lt/Hannigan Astro Sport sidecar.
    

10Back to top Go down   Oil flush, is it needed? Empty Re: Oil flush, is it needed? Sat May 01 2010, 19:50

Ned

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CF, it is good to get a confirmation for people who are just starting to restore their rides. Ajays has confirmed that synthetic oil does the same job, but this reasonably cheap option is also welcome.



I would use a cheap 20w-50 mixed with Dexron, simply because of price and ease of getting cheap recycled oils.

    

11Back to top Go down   Oil flush, is it needed? Empty Re: Oil flush, is it needed? Wed Sep 13 2023, 00:45

LifeGuard

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Hi, after so many years, what are your current recommendations on engine flushing? Over the past dozen or so years, the technology has changed a bit.
My "brick" K100RS has now been sitting for 5 years without being ridden (but started every year). This year I would like to replace its valve seals and adjust the valves. But first, give the engine a little flush. Is the diesel oil patent still recommended by you?

http://tchorzewski.net
    

12Back to top Go down   Oil flush, is it needed? Empty Re: Oil flush, is it needed? Wed Sep 13 2023, 10:13

Point-Seven-five

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I would say that if you aren't having sprag clutch problems all you need is an oil change and a new filter.  Virtually all the oils available for the last 30 years have detergent packages that do a great job of keeping the crap in suspension until the filter can grab it.  As long as the oil was changed regularly less than every 5 years, 50,000 miles you won't have any sludge buildup to deal with.  

If you really need to know if dirt is building up, pull the valve cover and do a valve adjustment.  That will give you a pretty good idea of how much crap is in the engine.


__________________________________________________
Present: 1991 K100RS "Moby Brick Too"
 
Past:
1994 K75RT "Ilsa, She Wolf of the SS"
1988 K100RS SE "Special Ed"
1994 K75S "Cheetos"
1992 K100RS "Moby Brick" R.I.P.
1982 Honda FT500
1979 Honda XR185
1977 Honda XL125
1974 Honda XL125
1972 OSSA Pioneer 250
1968 Kawasaki 175
    

13Back to top Go down   Oil flush, is it needed? Empty Re: Oil flush, is it needed? Wed Sep 13 2023, 11:54

LifeGuard

LifeGuard
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Basically, you're right, if nothing is happening, there's no point in trying to fix it

http://tchorzewski.net
    

14Back to top Go down   Oil flush, is it needed? Empty Re: Oil flush, is it needed? Wed Sep 13 2023, 12:10

Laitch

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Point-Seven-five wrote:  As long as the oil was changed regularly less than every 5 years, 50,000 miles you won't have any sludge buildup to deal with. 
This seems to be one of those rare cases where less could actually be more. Smile

    

15Back to top Go down   Oil flush, is it needed? Empty Re: Oil flush, is it needed? Mon May 13 2024, 08:43

DanielBN_K100

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I have sprag clutch problems (starter cant crank the engine) and was told a flush was a good idea.
I Can bump start it no problem so i think maybe an engine flush would be a good cheap and easy Way to maybe solcentre problem.

Advisable? 

BMW K100 from 1984.

    

16Back to top Go down   Oil flush, is it needed? Empty Re: Oil flush, is it needed? Mon May 13 2024, 09:04

Laitch

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DanielBN_K100 wrote:I have sprag clutch problems (starter cant crank the engine) and was told a flush was a good idea.
I Can bump start it no problem so i think maybe an engine flush would be a good cheap and easy Way to maybe solcentre problem.

Advisable?
You certainly have other choices, Daniel. 

You can always look for parking spaces that have a downhill pitch so you can bump start the Brick without effort. 
You can build your coordination and upper body strength by running alongside the Brick while pushing it, hopping on and then bump starting it. 
You can remove the transmission and rear drive, disassemble the engine until you reach the sprag clutch then clean the clutch housing, clean all the sprags, inspect them for function, reassemble the clutch, install the clutch, then reassemble the engine until you can start it to determine the success of your efforts.
You can sell the Brick as-is.
Smile


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1995 K75 90,000 miles
    

17Back to top Go down   Oil flush, is it needed? Empty Re: Oil flush, is it needed? Mon May 13 2024, 14:10

jbt

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I've seen many sprag clutches on Ks saved by using diesel engine oil. It's more detergent than the oil for petrol engines, and cleans the sprags.
A good battery and a good starter help also...


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Let us enjoy the transient delight
That fills our fairest day.
    

18Back to top Go down   Oil flush, is it needed? Empty Oil flush Mon May 13 2024, 14:53

daveyson

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Hi Daniel 

If the problem only started after an oil change to a new engine oil brand with some super duper friction modifier additives, that might be a problem. Bricks are unusual in that the engine oil is used for a clutch relying on friction between two smooth metal surfaces.


__________________________________________________
11/1985 BMW K100RT (late model)  Vin. 0090567
 ~120,000 km
    

19Back to top Go down   Oil flush, is it needed? Empty Re: Oil flush, is it needed? Tue May 14 2024, 09:33

DanielBN_K100

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Im using a semi-synthetic oil 10w-40 that was suggested to me. Switch to another?

    

20Back to top Go down   Oil flush, is it needed? Empty Oil Tue May 14 2024, 10:13

daveyson

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If you changed oil brands and the problem started after using this new brand, then yes the oil could be the problem. Then you want to read the label and see if friction additives are mentioned and what they are. Usually they are a benefit but might not be suitable for bricks. I think this has been a problem on the forum in the past.

I think one member, also from Denmark, was also recommended to change the oil brand, but it was an oil with some super friction additives I thought, and the clutch kept slipping.

Can you post photos of the labels on the oil jug?


__________________________________________________
11/1985 BMW K100RT (late model)  Vin. 0090567
 ~120,000 km
    

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