Parts needed are the alloy plates that clamp the screen on a K1100LT and also the two small tabs that attach to the fuel tank to take the side cover tabs.
Buying replacements is the best way to find the originals.

Bump

I thought I'd spotted an 'upgrade' in your signature line. What to do when you've got two motorbikes of a similar ilk but one's a pile? Blend. I look forward to a report.

Sorry, I don't have the bits you seek.

Rick,
Fairly sure I have a non-functioning electric screen if that is of any help

Two Wheels Better wrote:I thought I'd spotted an 'upgrade' in your signature line. What to do when you've got two motorbikes of a similar ilk but one's a pile? Blend. I look forward to a report.

Sorry, I don't have the bits you seek.

The GT got carted of to the knackery, it's an RS engine I bought some time ago.

Packo wrote:Rick,
Fairly sure I have a non-functioning electric screen if that is of any help

I just need the alloy plates about 3 inches long and 3/4 wide that hold the screen to the mechanism if you have them. I have several screens and mechanisms.

Rick G wrote:

Two Wheels Better wrote:I thought I'd spotted an 'upgrade' in your signature line. What to do when you've got two motorbikes of a similar ilk but one's a pile? Blend. I look forward to a report.

Sorry, I don't have the bits you seek.

The GT got carted off to the knackery. It's an RS engine I bought some time ago.

Has a six-speed gearbox and some tricked up mounting bracketry found its way in there, too?
Dare to dream.

No nothing at all. I spent some time thinking about it but decided there was  work to it than it warranted. I would have needed to build a jig to do just one job.

Have you done a mix 'n' match of the clutch components? I don't recall the specifics of my conversion - without looking back at the BB thread - but it was a disc from one and the pressure plates from the other due to splines and plate depth. I also recall having to piece together some bits to allow the K12 block's breather to function. I presume you also used the 'bell housing' of the K11 on the K12 block. I do believe it would be a monumental task - such as what Larry Romestant did to Kagusta - to get a six-speed to function. Not what we shade tree mechanics have equipment or time for. Are you going with the K11 intake system? There's not a lot of room for the K12 system to function within the K11 frame confines.

I look forward to your riding impressions. I found it improved the bottom end and mid-range but the K12 rush at the top is diminished perhaps due to the removal of the K12's ram or forced airbox.

Yeah I had some fun putting it together, had to modify the base of the air box and move the breather to a Z pipe arrangement.
Did you keep the RS cams or use the K1100 cams. I have put a set of euro RS cams in it, same ones I put in the K1100LT and it was a bit of a wild ride in first and second gear, a couple of tomes it even lifted the front shifting into third. I think the big difference is that the rev limiter is about 2 thousand higher in a K1200 and that is where the cams really work well. When compared side by side the 1200 cams are much wilder they come in at about 4500-5000 and come on gangbusters. I haven't investigated it but I think the advance curve is changed from the K1100 to prevent the 2 smoke like charge. Bit like a Kawasaki Mach 4.

Intake and exhaust cams used in K1200RS/GT are 284, all years, all markets. They are the same part number as Euro K1 & K100-16V. I stayed with them in Big Block. I didn't see any reason to swap them out. I'm using the last Motronic K11 brain and a K12 hall sensor, but with those extended (10-1/2") intakes and individual K&N pods on each 38mm throttle body. BB easily lifts front wheels. Of course it's seriously lighter than a typical RS.

My five minute, one eye open research shows all K11 models use a 256 intake and a 256/106 "gradient" exhaust cam. Fun times.