I'm in the process of building a RH side stand. Years ago I fitted a later straight leg stand which I shortened to compensate for a shorter YSS shock. At the time I trimmed off an extra 8mm to allow the fitting of a RH stand between the stand and the gearbox. Spacers took up the gap until I got around to it. This it went on the back burner for quite a few years. Just before Christmas I decided to resurrect the project after I managed to score an OEM side stand off one of the K Kronies, thanks Vic.

     I used a piece of 8mm thick by 40mm wide steel bar which was bent to mirror the angle of the LH stand.  I put the bike into my docking station and jacked up the bike to allow me to remove the stand. I removed the front stand bolts and loosened the rear bolts I then slid a narrower temporary piece of bent flat bar and moved it around until I was happy and marked the holes. I then used the narrower flat bar to mark the holes on the 40mm bar and drilled the holes. I also notched the bar to clear the centre stand spring mounting point. 
     
    I then remounted the bar and using the side stand worked out where to drill the hole for the side stand bush. A couple of 15mm washers took up the clearance. The bar then had to be shaped to allow the stand to pivot and stop in the extended position. As I don't like bushes running on threads I made a new pivot bolt with a longer shaft which required running the thread down further. The bolt was also drilled and tapped to take a grease nipple. I measured the position of the spring hanger mount at 100mm and did a mock up. It seemed  bit loose and rattly so I adjusted it to 110mm which is now fine. After refitting to the bike everything seems to clear. 

     The aluminium foot will have to be removed and the bend in the stand will have to be changed. A  paint job will finish it off. SSD is coming over on Monday to help with the bending. I have the correct size benders but heat is also required. In order to see if my conversion would work without shortening the centre stand legs I suggest putting a piece of 8mm ply under your bike and then try and get it onto the centre stand.  I also had Matts curved leg stand which came in handy. I could use it for measurements and checking the fit. The hardest part of the job was bending the 8mm thick flat bar with a blow torch, it took three goes. Occasionally I regret getting rid of my oxy/acetylene bottles. 




   

Nice!

Thanks but what's not nice is I've forgotten how to mount from the RH side. I can't seem to swing my left leg over the seat, and have to sort of hop sideways like a dysfunctional Kangaroo.   I might have to take up ballet and leap into the seat. 

If the latter, be sure to video so we may critique and vote.

SSD came over and we put a bit more of a bend in the stand as it was too upright. While trying to settle the bike the 8mm flat started to bend back. I had a look and it  and I'll have to weld in a gusset which should fix it. My original design incorporated a gusset, but due to the effort required to bend the bar I omitted it. At least it is a relatively easy fix.

Did you keep the left one?

That way you "swing both ways."  

Very hip in today's alphabet world.

I still have the LH one installed I wanted to have options when parking. Some OZ roads are heavily cambered and a few local towns we ride have steep roads. Also my Brick doesn't smoke when left on the side at the moment but just in case she takes up smoking I can stop her.
Regards Martin.

Where did you get that ? So many times I wished I had a side stand on the other side. Really cool !

YG I made it, however the Mk1 version has suffered bending. The bending was a result of destruction testing by SSD putting his weight on it and bouncing. I've just removed it and it hasn't bent where I put the bend but closer to the mounting bolt. The idea of putting a gusset in will not work, there's no room The original is made out of 8mm X 40mm mild steel so I'm thinking of a upgrade to either 316 stainless, high tensile steel or maybe spring steel in order of preference. At the moment trying to source replacement steel at a reasonable length and price. Once I work out what to use it should be an easy fix.
Regards Martin.

The steel mob I buy from in Slacks Creek do the 40 x 8 in 6 metre lengths for steel or 4 meter lengths for the stainless.  If you need another piece that size I can always look in Dad's scrap bin for something similar as I don't have any that size here.  Unless you wish to fork out for a six metre length again as I expect you have the same options where you are.

You might wish to mention to SSD to keep away from the pork pies, before you invite him back again.

What do you use to stop it? The left has that odd-shaped rubber thing on the exhaust.

Why does it need to be bent?

Thanks Dave I'll keep it in mind. As soon as it stop's raining I'm heading over to Ron's place he reckons he may have something. Duck once it was fitted to due to where it was mounted the lean angle wasn't that great. When it's folded up the metal stop on the stand hits the bracket you can sort of see it in the piccie. Once it's all up and running a rubber stop can be manufactured and fitted. 
Regards Martin.

Great job your doing. Here is how I did my right side stand. Ten years ago now. I've never looked back. I went a different way about it. I used a stand from a Honda postman's bike. Extended it. Milled up a plate and the rest is history. Cheers

A different approach, there's more than one way to skin a Roo. Looks good.
Regards Martin.

Some of those photo's Martin show enough room for a couple of support struts to brace that bend, Have you hammered it back flat and considered bracing it??

My next stand modification will be on the f800. Both the centre and side are terrible. The rest of the bike has proved good. Oh and then I dislike my side stand on the R65, hate that you have to keep it out with your foot until the weight holds it in place

01.22.2024

Porto wrote:My next stand modification will be on the f800. Both the centre and side are terrible.  The rest of the bike has proved good. Oh and then I dislike my side stand on the R65, hate that you have to keep it out with your foot until the weight holds it in place

I don't even really trust the K side stand. I'm in the habit of always giving it an extra second kick forward before leaning the bike on it and puling the bike back a little while leaning just to be sure.

Mk2 version in in the process of being manufactured it's been hot wet and steamy in Qld. It finally cooled down enough today to start the process. The Mk1 version was 8mm thick mild steel Mk2 version is 9.5mm 316 stainless steel complete with a preformed bend courtesy of a mate. There is room for a 5mm thick vertical brace on the leading edge. I just need to find a piece which should prove easier to get than the thicker piece.
Regards Martin.

take a look at the harley or guzzi side stands , the bike cannot roll forwards off the stand , it locks

I learned the hard way to make certain I havnt left the K out of gear. Rolled forward and over it went. Then when I made the right side stand using the Honda hardware I ground extra from the stopper so it swings way forward like a Harley. I think this is key, long stand long swing with harder angle. You can see in the picture I posted how long it is. The bmwfseries is terrible, very short and bot much angle. Will roll off easily.

30 C today and I got sick of waiting for the weather to cool down. So I'm in the process of finishing off the Mk2 version. I've had a dry fit up and everything seem to fit, I did end up putting the grease nipple on the end of the pivot bolt it was too hard to access from the head end. I managed to score a substantial piece of 5mm plate of a local stainless manufacturing company and they don't actually sell material. I went in and explained to the lovely office lady what I was chasing and that all I could find was either a 4 metre or 6 metre length elsewhere. She disappeared into the workshop and reappeared with the workshop supervisor who asked if I could cut it to size and I said yes. He reappeared with a fair lump of 5mm S/S which should last me a lifetime which cost me $30.00 Au. They explained they don't mind helping locals with their small projects which is great to see. The brace was cut out and tacked into place and the whole thing refitted to the bike. The 5mm plate just fits between the gearbox and stand with a slight offset. The outer part of the brace has a couple of tacks and the corner welded the inner part has been welde where it doesn't interere with the main stand. I don't believe it will bend now. The 9.5mm plate had come with a couple of predrilled holes which I had to weld and grind down  It's halfway through being painted and I'll probably fit it tomorrow.
Regards Martin. 

Looks good! I left the left on as well for about a year until I realised it would never be used again.

I would pick two stinking hot muggy days to finish it off. I had to do a bit of fettling as I had gotten over enthusiastic with my welding in the "V" between the  bracket and the gusset. I had to grind it down slightly to allow it to clear the centre stand frame. A rubber stop was required to stop the stand from hitting the footpeg plate. I ended up cutting down a rubber door stop and mounting it on a piece of flat bar which I then bolted it to the redundant rear foot peg mounting hole. A spacer was needed between the flat bar and the foot peg plate to allow it to sit vertically. 

       I removed the existing 25mm stand foot and tried a thinner one made out of a nylon cutting board but as I would like a fraction more lean I left it off. This left me with three holes in the foot and as I not inclined to set up the welder again I did a temporary fix. I filled them with a mix of Super Glue and bicarbonate of soda and sanded it down and hit it with a coat of gloss black epoxy paint. I'll wait for cooler weather and probably weld up the holes. It'll be interesting to see if the Super Glue/Bi Carb holds, it works well on plastic and timber. 

       The stand pivot bolt has been drilled down the shaft of the bolt to accept a grease nipple. Fitting one to the head of the bolt wouldn't work due to accessibility problems. My stand was also missing the rubber end on the deployment lever. I purchased a pack of 4 rubber chair leg feet for $3.50 Au from Mitre 10 as against the $6.00 Au plus freight for the OEM one. So far I've used the RH stand once, I just need to practice my mount/dismount.
Regards Martin.

Looks good Martin.  

Does the super glue bi-carb generate much heat?  If you leave the holes in place, at least you have the option to refit the puck in the future.  

Did you consider moving the extension to the other side of the leg, or I expect it was just easier to work with a LH item?  Also was it possible to have the springs fitted on the underside of the leg?

Martin wrote:

Ah - weld porn!

Dave I thought I might have to move the deployment arm but the whole setup works well with virtually no modifications required. I didn't even consider moving the springs but doing so would have made more work and harder assembly. The Super Glue Bicarb mix does generate a little bit of heat but I might leave it and just finish it off a bit better. I've tried it on plastic and wood and it works well, it dries quick and is pretty hard and it works when Super Glue on it's own either won't work or is weaker. I believe you can mix Super Glue with other material, such as powdered aluminium and iron. I've tried it with graphite powder but that didn't work. Even with the industrial fan going I was keen to finish and head into the A/C. For some reason the boss won't let me fit A/C to the garage.
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:For some reason the boss won't let me fit A/C to the garage.

Just open the internal door and close the garage door??  

I remember one of the bush remedies for R series tappet cover/sump holes was araldite and steel wool, so used to carry that around with my R65.

I've already done that but it doesn't work when she's home. I've used cheese cloth and Airfix glue to repair torn off wings on Cox control line airplanes.
Regards Martin.