Hi All,
In my latest round of restoring old Blue, I painted the gas tank. Well, I seriously could have done a better job finishing the surface as there were a couple of bobbles, little marks, lines etc. But I just had to push on and finally got the base color, blue, on. But today I shot the clear coat. As I said the base coat did have a few issues if you knew where to look. But I shot the clear coat using "Max Spray 2K Clear Coat 3680061". The results are decent and I remember others saying they used it. But my question to anyone who's used it before can it be sanded? And is this a sensible thing? As usual there's one small sag line that I would like to remove but I'm not sure if it's worth the effort or if it's possible to sand and polish with this clear coat paint. It is the two part stuff with the internal activator being mixed in. I shot the whole can as I figured the stuff wouldn't take well to sitting around once activated.

Any thoughts/comments? Always appreciated.

J.

Something just a tad weird. The on-line ad for the stuff is USD $19.99/can but a 3 can special for $69.95. Just sounded strange.

I have shot about 12 cans of that stuff.  First off, if you stick it in the freezer when you are done, it will stay usable for up to 10 days.  Just let it warm up after you pull it out of the freezer and have at it.

Yes, you can sand it and polish it.  Wet sand with progressively finer grades starting with 1000 going up to 2500.  Put a little Dawn dish soap in the water.  Use a sanding block.  Then polish with 3M #2 and #3 polishing compound. 

It's a great product. especially if you are like me and at the end of a paint session you don't really feel like cleaning a gun.

Point-Seven-five wrote:I have shot about 12 cans of that stuff. 

What is your masking situation, if you don't mind sharing. I've got an old top hood that I got from a paint shop years ago fits over my head and has a steady stream of air coming in. Apparently the hood is no longer available. The air supply is from an old vacuum cleaner, Eureka tank style. So I use a combination of vacuum hoses about 10 feet long from the vacuum to the hood. But the hood is wearing out and I'm looking for replacements. And this time around I found that if I shrug my shoulders it closes off the exit stream of air going down and the hood literally shot off my head. Fortunately not in the middle of a spray. I had enough trouble with insects and other air borne litter.

I have a home made paint booth that pulls the overspray away from me.  I wear a Niosh organic vapor mask that I got at my local auto paint store.  I don't think the Max Spray stuff is that bad.  Certainly not as bad as Imron or Awlgrip. 



I think the main danger from these clears is inhaling the uncured paint and having it cure in your lungs.  This is especially bad with polyurethanes that catalyze with moisture.  Over time the paint accumulates and is never excreted so it gradually reduces your lung's ability to absorb oxygen.  The damage can't be reversed.  Wear your mask, as long as your mask removes the vapor you will be safe.

There's a downside to it. If you have shot multiple relatively thick layers instead of 'barely there' (almost like overspray) layers, there is a very high chance that the lower layers will become rejuvenated. What that means is that they become semi-liquified again and fuel spillage will quite happily remove any part of the laquer that it comes into contact with.

Just DEAMHIK. Just don't.

Point-Seven-five wrote:I have a home made paint booth that pulls the overspray away from me.  I wear a Niosh organic vapor mask that I got at my local auto paint store.  I don't think the Max Spray stuff is that bad.  Certainly not as bad as Imron or Awlgrip. 


I think the main danger from these clears is inhaling the uncured paint and having it cure in your lungs.  This is especially bad with polyurethanes that catalyze with moisture.  Over time the paint accumulates and is never excreted so it gradually reduces your lung's ability to absorb oxygen.  The damage can't be reversed.  Wear your mask, as long as your mask removes the vapor you will be safe.

Well I like the painting booth. Is your system as simple as blowing away from you and use of a organic vapor mask? Below is my setup. The white hood accepts air from the hoses which are connected to the old electrolux vacumn's blowing end. The hood acts like a partial balloon with the air entering the bottom and blowing over the clear plastic.In general I don't smell the paint fumes which is how I gauge its effectiveness. But the hood is wearing out and I'm looking to replace it with the green mask which is intended for mines and the like.

My booth has two box fans I picked up on the side of the road on trash day pulling the air in the booth through paint booth filter media.  I have also used 2 stacked furnace filters over each fan.  The main purpose is to control overspray in my garage so I don't have to cover everything and have the big cleanup job when I finish painting. 

My Niosh mask filters well.  I can't smell any fumes when I use it.  I am pretty sure that OSHA allows them in paint booths.  I have noticed that hardly anybody shooting automotive coatings is using hoods anymore.  Even the custom shops on Motor Trend tv are using Niosh masks.

If I was shooting polyester stuff like Imron and Awlgrip for sure I would still be using the hood.  That stuff has loads of cyanide in the fumes.

Point-Seven-five wrote:My booth has two box fans I picked up on the side of the road on trash day pulling the air in the booth through paint booth filter media.  I have also used 2 stacked furnace filters over each fan.  The main purpose is to control overspray in my garage so I don't have to cover everything and have the big cleanup job when I finish painting. 

My Niosh mask filters well.  I can't smell any fumes when I use it.  I am pretty sure that OSHA allows them in paint booths.  I have noticed that hardly anybody shooting automotive coatings is using hoods anymore.  Even the custom shops on Motor Trend tv are using Niosh masks.

If I was shooting polyester stuff like Imron and Awlgrip for sure I would still be using the hood.  That stuff has loads of cyanide in the fumes.

I was admiring the turntable in the middle of the booth, so what's the maximum size of piece you can comfortably handled, i.e. what's the size of the booth? And your box fans do they just pull air through the booth? Where do they blow it to? I have a 10'x12' shed (filled) which I've been shooting in. Everything in there is pretty much overflow from the garage, i.e. trash including the parts bike engine. The size is dictated by the city's setting that as the limit on not having to get permits.

The booth is 5'x5' and the sides are about 5' high.  It's big enough to do the main fairing for my K75RT.

The turntable is made with a lazy susan bearing from Home Depot.  It's mounted to a piece of 1x8 pine that attaches to the booth's table top.  The upper part of the turntable is a wooden frame that I can attach different carriers for the parts I want to paint.  Parts are attached with drywall screws.

The booth breaks down into the table top, four legs, and five plastic covered frames.  Everything is held together with drywall screws and I can set the booth up or take it down in about 15 minutes with my drill's screwdriver attachment.  It stores in a space about 5'x5'x12".

The fans pull the overspray down through the filters where it's caught.  It's amazing how much crap they catch when I'm painting the fairing and a tank.  It's nice to know it's not getting all over the stuff in my garage.  Saves a ton of cleanup time after a paint job.