Hi Guys,

As per pics , this doesn't seem right?

Too much of a kink in the pipe when connected. I replaced because it was leaking, so was like that?
Something not right!!

As per this https://kaferacer.files.wordpress.com/2015/02/dsc07050.jpg

I have the same problem, replaced the hose a few years ago, last start it sprung a leak, all perished and cracked where it connects to the fuel rail, by the looks of the kaferacer image the problem can be eliminated by swapping the hoses front to back, if this is right I do not need to pay the huge price for the preformed hose, can someone confirm my thoughts cheers Gary

Another option, cut a small piece of the hose and install a 90 degree brass fitting (or two, or 45) At the wreckers look for a car converted to LPG (often with a bent boot) and look for the fittings. There are a few different types. Look at the hoses say to the converter (possibly too big) or the vacuum control hoses.

Edit: from memory hose barb on inlet manifolds of 90's Camry models.

Yes I thought of that option, it would mean 4 clamps and there is very little room, thanks for the advice

First, MartinW has a spring that can be put over a straight hose that will prevent kinking.  Maybe he can post the link.

Second, there is no reason why you can't swap hoses front to rear on the rail.  Be creative with the routing to make the runs without sharp bends.  With a few extra inches of hose, you can make moving the tank back to get at the stuff under it easier. 

Also, if you do decide to swap ends, look at moving the pressure regulator from behind the air plenum.  Crazy Frog has posted some photos in a thread that shows how he did his.  It will do a lot to help keep the fuel tank cooler by moving the regulator out from behind the radiator and all the engine heat.

Last, make sure you have the correct grade of hose.  SAE J30R9 is the proper grade for "underhood" fuel line that is NOT used in the tank.  It has a lining that will not degrade with the ethanol, the outer shell is heat resistant to 150C, and it is rated to 100PSI.

You could use the SAE J30R10 submersible hose, but it will cost you more.

Repco stocks Unicorns Unicoils but you may have to order one, eBay also has them. They come in different sizes so get the correct size. To keep the Unicoil in position I fitted another hose clip below the Unicoil to stop it sliding down on fitting, probably overkill. I've never had any problems with hose crimping since I fitted one. And it's a patented Ozzie design and company.
Merry Christmas regards Martin. 

I have generic FI rated fuel line from the fuel rail to the FPR on all of my Ks.  It is a little bit kinked near where it comes out of the fuel rail and bends but that has not caused me any problems on any of my Ks. YMMV

The trouble with my fuel line kinking only started to occur in summer and in heavy traffic when temperatures reached the high 30s. Wouldn't probably be a problem in the cooler parts of Oz. Besides the fuel line problem I had to fit a heat shield to my fuel rail to stop vaporization. A few of the Ozinian members have fitted fuel coolers to counter the problem.
Regards Martin.

Thank you Martin, Duck, and .75, glad to see the forum help is still here, my K has been resting for a few years (bought a 1100 vstar but that’s another story, very comfy bike fat seat loud pipes……..) so time to bring some life back into my 31 yr old ultimate riding machine that I have owned for 24 of those years, Yes .75 creative is good, I am also changing my exhaust again , and a few other things like making the single seat fit properly, anyway after reading all the posts and the answers from all the knuts, I will reroute the hoses seems to be the best solution for me, I think the last time! well the only time I have replaced the hoses a long time ago and probably bought it cheap from supercheap, this time I will do it right, thanks for all the info, Gary

Motorsport Accessories South Pine Rd Brendale has the cheapest fuel line around. Make sure you get the correct rating. They also have packs of EFI hose clips.
Regards Martin.

I have the same problem with the hose on the K1  

I have the correct one coming with the preformed bend one coming from Motorworks  

You can also get them from Munich in western Australia but will be a two to three week wait if you're not in a hurry

but I need additional parts so had to send to UK

I looked at the preformed hose, I never liked how the return hose ran down and above the head or it’s a knee heater as the fuel tank warms up,  I think I will do as the pic shows, and move the pressure reg as .75 suggested, are the 8 valves the same?

CrazyFrog, A.K.A. Bert, did it on an 8 valve K100 motor.  Here are a couple of links that show some interesting mods that you can do.

https://www.k100-forum.com/t15210-relocating-the-fuel-pressure-regulator

https://www.k100-forum.com/t15212-vacuum-modification

On the second link, Porto had his throttle body vacuum ports connected together in a manifold and then disconnected the throttle position switch(TPS).  He also replaced the factory pressure regulator with an adjustable one which allowed him to run at a slightly higher fuel pressure in the rail.

It's possible that the manifold he shows also acts as a vacuum accumulator which could help provide better regulator response to rapid throttle openings that he mentions in his posts.

Garyk100 wrote:I looked at the preformed hose, I never liked how the return hose ran down and above the head or it’s a knee heater as the fuel tank warms up,  I think I will do as the pic shows, and move the pressure reg as .75 suggested, are the 8 valves the same?

The 8v have a different fuel rail the first inlet is on the top side

my preformed pipe which came yesterday 

Matt how much did the hose set you back.

think it was around $25  to $30 bucks

This is my attempt at relocating the pressure regulator, easy to access and a cooler spot, left the hoses on the rail as is, did not see the point of swapping, used the old bracket so if it is homesick it can go back, made up a bracket to connect the bracket to the bracket, made a hole in the foamy bit so the hose goes up the same way as before, and it now has proper fuel lines, I am happy with the end result.

I'm probably missing something. But the original photo and question was of the fuel rail hose kinking. Looking at the photo of the fuel rail something seemed off to me. Are there variants of the K100 fuel rail? Here is the one that I am currently cleaning and prepping for painting and re-installation. The inlet connector looks to be in a different orientation to me.

jjefferies wrote:I'm probably missing something. But the original photo and question was of the fuel rail hose kinking. Looking at the photo of the fuel rail something seemed off to me. Are there variants of the K100 fuel rail? Here is the one that I am currently cleaning and prepping for painting and re-installation. The inlet connector looks to be in a different orientation to me.

The 8v and 16v are different

Yes you are right Matthew, the 16v is a mix of K100 and K1100 parts,

If the injector spacing is the same, and I'm pretty sure it is, those rails should be interchangeable so I wouldn't worry.  The difference in hose locations isn't a big deal and can be compensated with hose routing.

BTW, your rail looks pretty nice!