Hi guys, I've waddled through most of the issues with this project, including rewiring the heated grips. I didn't mention that before as I was a bit embarrassed that what I thought was already to be installed had issues I hadn't dealt with properly. So let me backup, I installed the switch and the grips (with room to move/rotate) and had almost all the wiring ready before I pulled the tank. Uh, Oh, when I belatedly remembered that the USB outlet I had installed ran off the power connector normally used by the heated hand grips. In this modern world I really hate giving up a really nice USB outlet with a built-in voltmeter. So I sort of added a split to accommodate both. That of course entailed scrounging for OEM style connectors which further delayed finishing the project. And then on one scrounging trip riding Red, my main ride, the heated grips there caused a short and FUSE #1 to pop. Which necessitated immediate action as there were club rides/meetings coming. Anyway now I'm back on it and the thought has crawled across my consciousness like a slug across a ripening tomato, exactly how much power is available through this one power outlet. So first I tried to figure out what the max power could be demanded by the two devices, USB outlet, and heated grips, 38 watts for the grips and 48 watts (4 amps) for the USB outlet (2amps each x 2 outlets). Not sure about the totals for the USB as I'm not quite sure how it takes the 12 volt input down to 5 volt 2 amps for the two outlets. The voltmeter I'm assuming is negligible. Fuse #1 is of course 7.5 amps. So I'm thinking (rightly perhaps) that I may be calling for more power than fuse #1 can handle. In fact I tested what fails if Fuse #1 blows and as far as I can tell, all the instrumentation, but not the back lights in the instrument pod, the voltage remains at 14 volts even though the alternator light comes on - the only instrument that does work. And the starter won't work either.
So it comes to me that perhaps the way out of this is to tie the USB outlet to the power outlet on the dash. BUT is that 1.) sensible as there would be a steady draw for the voltmeter even if negligible, 2.) is that outlet fused and which fuse? 3.) Is there an alternate switched (on/off) power take off point?
Thanks for reading this rather lengthy post. Suggestions other than anatomically impossible ones appreciated. BTW, I've crawled (almost literally ) through the electrical diagrams in both the Haynes and Clymer manuals though it's done little more than give me eye strain and a headache.