Those of you who've known me for a little while will scratch yer heads in amusement and wonder. I've never really liked red motorbikes. It's too much of an 'arrest me' colour. Too easy a target for Johnny Law's short attention span. But somehow I've got three and a half red ones.
Half because the Mystic is black, silver and red, red being the primary colour. The other red'uns are my K100RS in OZ, the K1300GT and now this one.

This came my way a coupla months ago. It's an April of '97 production date, registered as a 1998 due to a 'W' as the tenth digit of the 17 digit VIN. It was ridden hard but kept clean, regular services & oil changes, et al, with lotsa extra farkles like PIAA lights & dual PIAA horns, an automatic garage door opener, radar detector, and etc., installed by the previous owner. The bike was unloaded in my driveway, delivered by the owner who handed me the title, keys and accessories such as panniers, tankbag, cover, extra BMW power plugs, two seats - one with solo seat cover, adjustable 'bar risers, and brand new Hagon adjustable shockies front & rear, with red springs! The catch? I could not pay him for it. He gave it to me. What the? Here's why:

Look closely.

Wot wuz dat noyz!?

Apparently, chasing a K1600GTL over Sherman Pass in Eastern Washington state and a very spirited pace in the height of a Pacific Northwest summer presents some beautiful views. This perhaps not being one of them.

That connecting rod end cap decided to see what was just on the other side of the thin magnesium wall. A little 200 grit on the journal and she'll be laughing - not serious, folks.

Not a heap of miles on the clock. I've got two spare K1100RS engines, the appropriate 'bell housing', full frame and engine wiring looms, K12 camshafts, Motronic, 38mm TB's, and requisite ancillaries to make it a revving K11RS sheep in wolf's clothing, or just to slide a secondhand eBay K1200RS/GT motor under it.

What did my gifter get as a replacement? A K1600GT from 2013 with less than 30,000 miles on it. It wouldn't start reliably, but when it did, ran rough and so the original owner gave it away to him cheap, the fuel stinking of furniture stripper. I scanned the codes for him and he replaced the fuel pump with a Kemso from eBay for under $30 bucks.

Two Wheels Better wrote:Those of you who've known me for a little while will scratch yer heads in amusement and wonder. I've never really liked red motorbikes. It's too much of an 'arrest me' colour. Too easy a target for Johnny Law's short attention span. But somehow I've got three and a half red ones.
Half because the Mystic is black, silver and red, red being the primary colour. The other red'uns are my K100RS in OZ, the K1300GT and now this one.

This came my way a coupla months ago. It's an April of '97 production date, registered as a 1998 due to a 'W' as the tenth digit of the 17 digit VIN. It was ridden hard but kept clean, regular services & oil changes, et al, with lotsa extra farkles like PIAA lights & dual PIAA horns, an automatic garage door opener, radar detector, and etc., installed by the previous owner. The bike was unloaded in my driveway, delivered by the owner who handed me the title, keys and accessories such as panniers, tankbag, cover, extra BMW power plugs, two seats - one with solo seat cover, adjustable 'bar risers, and brand new Hagon adjustable shockies front & rear, with red springs! The catch? I could not pay him for it. He gave it to me. What the? Here's why:

Look closely.

Wot wuz dat noyz!?

Apparently, chasing a K1600GTL over Sherman Pass in Eastern Washington state and a very spirited pace in the height of a Pacific Northwest summer presents some beautiful views. This perhaps not being one of them.

That connecting rod end cap decided to see what was just on the other side of the thin magnesium wall.

Eek!

Chicken wire, paper mache and liquid steel should plug the hole .....Looks like its been hit with an armour piercing round!!!

You can't complain about the price. Duct tape is a pretty universal fix.
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:You can't complain about the price. Duct tape is a pretty universal fix.
Regards Martin.

Gotta get the right grade of duct tape, though.

This example might just put a dent in my theory that red ones go faster? 

Bill

Duct tape...didn't we used to call if gaffer's tape? So, when did it change names Down Under, you lot? 

Where are we going, and why are we in this handbasket?

The PO assured me last night when discussing what I'd discovered internally that he had checked the oil and tyre pressure the morning of the fateful ride. When removing the fairing panels the other day I noted the oil pressure switch connector had dislodged from the sensor...
He said it was a very sudden shudder, like a set of carbies way out of balance and that he shut it down and deployed the sidestand in record time, flames erupting from the hot catalyst underneath. He attempted to blow on it but his mates yelled at him to stand aside and they threw roadside gravel at it to extinguish the fire. Nothing got burnt, a slag of oil lies thick in the belly pan, and magnesium chunks drop out of everywhere when removing panels, lowers and such. Remarkably, it has some useful bits to it still, and is not just a paperweight. The block and crank are done, but the rest appears in good nick. The timing cover and head's coming off today. It'll be a runner by late-Spring, one way or another.

Two Wheels Better wrote:Duct tape...didn't we used to call if gaffer's tape? So, when did it change names Down Under, you lot? 

Where are we going, and why are we in this handbasket?

Duct tape and gaffer's tape are two different animals.  Duct tape's adhesive is supposed to work at a wider temperature range, but leaves nasty residue if you leave it more than a couple hours.  Depending on the brand of tape, there may be no known solvents capable of removing it.

Gaffer's tape was originally designed for use on theater sets.  All the stuff I've ever seen was black where duct tape is usually silver/gray.  The main difference is in the adhesive.  Gaffer's tape leaves no adhesive residue when you remove it.  It also costs anywhere from 2 to 5 times more than duct tape.  You gotta pay for that nice adhesive.

Now let me get this basket off my head.

Wow, how coincidental is that?  You just happen to have two spare motors and all the parts to get it going.      It would be interesting to know what actually caused that motor to fail so suddenly and catastrophically.

Point-Seven-five wrote:

Two Wheels Better wrote:Duct tape...didn't we used to call if gaffer's tape? So, when did it change names Down Under, you lot? 
Where are we going, and why are we in this handbasket?

Duct tape and gaffer's tape are two different animals.  Duct tape's adhesive is supposed to work at a wider temperature range, but leaves nasty residue if you leave it more than a couple hours.  Depending on the brand of tape, there may be no known solvents capable of removing it.

Gaffer's tape was originally designed for use on theater sets.  All the stuff I've ever seen was black where duct tape is usually silver/gray.  The main difference is in the adhesive.  Gaffer's tape leaves no adhesive residue when you remove it.  It also costs anywhere from 2 to 5 times more than duct tape.  You gotta pay for that nice adhesive.

Now let me get this basket off my head.

I wuz thinkin' more along the lines of language creep. Wouldn't surprise me if upon returning home Aussies are one day calling it 'gas' instead of petrol even tho' we already have a gas, and spelling litre as liter. Oh, the humanity!

According to Wikipedia, the word gasoline is derived from "Cazeline" which was a trademark for a fuel sold by a British guy named Cassell around the 1860's.  A competitor in Ireland named Boyd was using the name in violation of the trademark, and when challenged changed the C to a G and created the name "Gazeline".  When the name eventually got to the U.S. the British Z turned into the American S. 

As is often the case, the Americans shortened the name to gas.  Funny how the guys who created the word don't use it anymore.

Most people would think the conrod gets its name from the fact that it connects the piston to the crankshaft.  Actually it's named after its inventor,  Sir Able Conrod OMBE, 1814-1901. I first read about it in an early edition of the Book of lies.

To throw the cat among the pigeons you also have race tape and 100 MPH tape. I've also seen duct tape spelt as duck tape or maybe duck tape was actually for ducks. As far as gaffer tape goes, it was always the cotton reinforced tape and could be had in various colours and duct tape was silver vinyl tape originally used for sealing ducts.
Regards Martin..

MartinW wrote:. . .  or maybe duck tape was actually for ducks.

Only when they were quacked.

Grab some eucalyptus oil for dissolving that adhesive residue - it's even eco friendly.

Bah!  Carb cleaner works better and it's not PC

Woodie wrote:Wow, how coincidental is that?  You just happen to have two spare motors and all the parts to get it going.      It would be interesting to know what actually caused that motor to fail so suddenly and catastrophically.

These early K1200 motors had different rods and end cap fixings, which is why they grenade. I did a rebuild on one that received a 2003 donor motor due to a similar explosion. Runs sweet now.

Point-Seven-five wrote:According to Wikipedia, the word gasoline is derived from "Cazeline" which was a trademark for a fuel sold by a British guy named Cassell around the 1860's.

According to the same article, somebody named Carless came up with the name petrol for auto fuel. Whether he had a son name Conrod wasn't indicated.

The Pitman arm was named after the man at the bottom of the coal pit that connected the arm from the steam engine at ground level, to the water pump at the bottom of the coal mine, to pump the water out, after the easy to get coal was all gone. True.

Two Wheels Better wrote:

What goes on in Washington State should stay there.

Laitch wrote:

Two Wheels Better wrote:

What goes on in Washington State should stay there.

That excitable young thang is actually a Pommie, and the Brits have always been a bit more relaxed about some things than the Yanks.

TWB: Are you gonna drill the drain hole in the clutch assembly? (From what I've read it's a common mod.)  The 97 I bought late last year has clutch issues so while I'm in there I plan to do that.

I've only put  about 20 miles on it but the throttle is really stiff and there's some sort of mod you can do to loosen that.  I know you had a taxi cab before.  What are your thoughts on that?

FYI: I Engrish labeled the SLP wiring diagram for it in case you have any use for it:
http://dws.x10host.com/11tech/wiring/K1200RS.SLP.Wiring.V1.1.pdf

Yes, fixing the clutch slave's ability to drain off when it leaks is paramount on the earlier ones. Fortunately, the PO had just done a complete clutch assembly and that mod as well, just before she blew. As for the too-stiff throttle, I've owned the Taxi Cab K1200RS and a 2002 K1200RS, both of which had the dreaded arm pump pull, and in the end I bought an '03 K1200GT with cruise control. It really is a sign of aging (or wisdom) when a new-to-you bike comes along with rider aids like cruise, electric 'screen, bum warmers, heated grips, even traction control as on the K1300GT, & etc., and you become quite accustomed to them that you don't want to go backwards. Still, it's a real pleasure to ride the older, simpler bikes when I can.

I have an entire 2003 GT main wiring & engine loom in my stash and some essential bits of the cruise at the throttle bodies from when I did the Big Block-ecktomy (an '03 complete engine, gearbox, wiring loom & etc) and may attempt to install these pieces to this '98, along with the requisite LH switch - keeping in mind that the ABS and its loom are entirely different beasts between the two years/models so it may not be easily done. For most bikes I use a Throttle Rocker-like device and/or Throttlemeister 'bar ends anyway, to ease the twist and long-term pain in my right wrist.

Two Wheels Better wrote:That excitable young thang is actually a Pommie, and the Brits have always been a bit more relaxed about some things than the Yanks.

Clearly, packaging isn't one of them.

Had a few minutes extra for garage time yesterday so began a basic inspection process. The #1 rod & piston are wedged up inside the bore about halfway, with the broken conrod end slammed to a stop against a crankshaft counterweight. That cylinder's valves are in the closed position. Whipped out the sparkies - no damage to the electrode of no. 1 - but was imagining a careening piston/conrod assembly flailing about seeking freedom in its suddenly emancipated new life for a few glorious seconds until the inevitable crunch of aluminium, steel & magnesium arrived. Shone a torch down the threaded hole. Piston top looked clean and smooth, no irregularities. Extended a probe into the hole with a teeny tiny little mirror. No obvious damage to the combustion chamber surface or to the face of the valves. Damn! This cylinder head may be in re-usable condition. Today I'll slacken & remove the timing chain then unbolt the cylinder head for a clearer visual inspection. 

I wonder if a K12 head will fit onto a K11 block...same head gasket, valve diametres about .5mm larger on K12 so the piston pockets on the K11 may or may not accept the K12's valves. Fun fun fun.

Quiltzig wrote:

Woodie wrote:Wow, how coincidental is that?  You just happen to have two spare motors and all the parts to get it going.      It would be interesting to know what actually caused that motor to fail so suddenly and catastrophically.

These early K1200 motors had different rods and end cap fixings, which is why they grenade. I did a rebuild on one that received a 2003 donor motor due to a similar explosion. Runs sweet now.

Hmm so the early 1200's are known to blow....would changing the rods to the later version (used) be all thats required for a fairly cheap insurance policy?