I have a custom 1985 K100RS cafe racer. Because I have custom rear sets, my feet are located farther back and the gear shift lever is connected to my rearset and not the selector shaft. From the shift lever I have a linkage rod running from the shift lever to a shift arm that then connects to the 30 tooth selector shaft. This is obviously not an uncommon setup as a lot of bikes, custom or not, use a linkage rod. However, I want to go back to a more original setup in this area where I'm not using a linkage rod connected to a shift arm - instead, I want to have my shift lever connected directly to the selector shaft just as the bike was engineered. The issue is that if I go with the original shift lever/gear shaft set-up my left foot is set too far back to reach the actual shift lever.

SO...my question is; could I get a 30 tooth shift lever and attach it to the selector shaft in reverse so that it extends closer to my left foot rather than away from my left foot?

Is this even an option? If so, has anyone done it? If yes, can you share the name/make of the shift lever you used?

Much appreciated,

Thomas

Just seen your other thread on gear shift trouble (photo). I've been through the trouble of setting up rear sets before (I remember the headaces now). I think this set might be a bit poor in design. besides having to replace your broken shift rod, I'm concerned about the bend in shift rod to get round that spline & nut (really needs to be straight). Do not know if it will work for you but is it possible to turn the shift arm & gear lever upside down (180degrees) so that the shift rode is on the bottom to get it away from the spline &nut. so that you can use a staight shift rod.
Ps;not sure if you will be able to get shift lever in the right position for your foot or if ground clearance would be an issue. Best of luck. Poddy

You can't use the globe joints when there is a bend in the connecting rod because the rod will fall to its lowest point and put a lot of strain on the joints, as you have found it is best to use a clevis pin joint so the rod remains aligned and can't pivot.
I would recommend 8mm or 5/16in

Should both ends be Clevis pin joints or just one side?

Both

tjh1985 wrote:@poddy It never even dawned on me that if I reversed the shift lever it would also mean reversing the direction the gears would need to be shifted in. I can't explain the amount of time, money, personal therapy, and marriage counseling you just saved me.

Nah, just pretend it's either a Norton or a modern GP-shift bike, and move on.

Although you can place the shift arm any where on the gear shift rod sline (to help with adjustment) try to keep a 90degree off set to keep the mechanical advantage for shifting. 
Normally we change the position of this, So you get the correct position for your foot. 
With rears sets the rod you broke normally can also help positioning the gear change lever for your foot position.
The length of the rod also helps determine position of gear shift lever. 
When setting rear sets try to keep gear shift lever the same length as original gear shift lever because if lengthened or shortened it will change the mechanical advantage & cause trouble with shifting.
Remember with rearsets all your trying to do is to move the pivot point rearwoods (hint!).
Yep the headaces are coming back.
Same princibles for Forward control on Harleys. Yep went through the headaces of making my own sets again with them. There's plenty of after market sets for Harleys I just did not want to pay there prices. At the time I had access to milling machines & a lath. 
I was also driving for a company that had its own Aluminium smelter so chucks of aluminium billet, I got for free. Good luck Poddy

k1's use the same gearbox and have a linkage fitted

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

This might give you some further ideas

UPDATE #3:

Just letting everyone know how helpful you all have been - I'm currently waiting on the parts to try and fix this issue. Without everyone's input, advice, links, etc I still be up shits creek without a paddle so BIG thank you. That said...

If anyone knows if there is a specific way I'm supposed to attach the new rod I'm waiting on that would be helpful to know - Right now the bike is set in Neutral and I was going to simple add the new offset shift arm and attach the new linkage rod with the 8mm Clevis Pin Joints at either end and then go for a ride...however, I've realized by now nothing is that simple and that there is probably a specific way I'm supposed to set all that...Anyone got input on this...

Last thing - any recommendations on where to buy a new clutch cable? Figure I should ask before I start searching the www

tjh1985 wrote:Right now the bike is set in Neutral and I was going to simple add the new offset shift arm and attach the new linkage rod with the 8mm Clevis Pin Joints at either end and then go for a ride...

If you can jack up the rear wheel off the pavement and keep the motorcycle stable, you should be able to determine when it's in each gear running it while it's idling, although going for a ride could be more adventuresome. 

Have you removed the gearbox and lubricated the clutch splines and adjusted the cable.

@RicKG Yes - I have done those things and it has not corrected the downshifting sticking. Ever heard of something like that before?

Appreciate the suggestion and anymore input

Thomas

Put the transmission in 5th gear and tie the lever back to the handlebar then try to turn the rear wheel while on the centre stand then compare with the transmission in neutral if there is and significant difference the clutch may be binding. If the clutch is binding it probably will be difficult in 5th and impossible in 1st gear.