I've been wanting to get this post going for a while but had to wait until I got a centre stand fitted so I could take some photos of the right side of the bike!  I can of course now start tinkering and taking bits and pieces off the bike too which is what I really want to get started on.

I'm certainly not looking to build a cafe racer, and I don't really care for any of the "themes" of custom bikes.  I simply want to make it my own, gaining inspiration from the incredibly talented builders out there in the world whose bikes appear on the internet.  I see a bike and think "I like those handle bars", or "that rear is amazing" (I promise I was still looking at bikes when I said that!   )

I want a bike that I can take my wife on joy rides, so the seat needs to fit two and I need pillion pegs.  I'm looking at Brat style flat seats and have no idea how to go about creating one of those so that will be part of the learning curve.  I want it naked and minimalist - the reason I fell in love with the K100 was my mate sending me links to photos of custom builds and the big brick engine just looks fantastic when everything else is stripped back and it becomes the centre piece of the bike.  I want my bike to be all black.  I think she used to be blue like the tank, as the remaining plastic bits seem to have been painted green.

I'll update this thread as I go along, however it will be slow progress as time and money trickle-feed my addiction and allow me to work on the bike.  I'll be sure to be asking lots of questions - in fact I have one now about the exhaust.  But first photos, then I'll ask away in the next post.  Just having this bike in my garage is good for me and I'm already very fond of her without even hearing her fire up.  Getting into the garage for an hour here and an hour there will be my therapy to balance out my life.  Having said that, I really can't wait to take her out on her maiden voyage! 

Cheers all 

I did my first bit of work over the last couple of days - not much but I degreased the engine and gave it a bit of a wash.  This was also to help find the source of an oil leak.  Doesn't appear to be the sight glass, but it is coming from the right side, from the crack cover by the looks.  No biggie with a new gasket set I'm sure.

An encouraging first sign was removing the coolant overflow tank - it had beautiful bright green, clean coolant and not the sludge that I was expecting.  Hopefully the bike has been well maintained in other areas too   

I also have what looks to be the front fairing bracket and front fairing - are these worth anything to anyone?

Hi guys, I've done a bit of reading around, but it might be easier if you gurus know what the consequences would be of cutting my stock muffler somewhere around the red line in the photo?

It's purely for aesthetics, not performance or sound.  I don't want it to be obnoxiously loud, and I'm worried this would adversely affect performance.  I plan on leaving the stock footpeg mounts and retaining the muffler mounts and centre stand stop.

Has anyone seen this done and know of the consequences?

Cheers,
Nods

This post might serve as inspiration, anyway, Nods.

Laitch wrote:This post might serve as inspiration, anyway, Nods.

Thanks for that Laitch 

Just a few observations from the last few days of tinkering.  I took the tank off and notice a small patch of paint was missing from the bottom left of the underside of the tank - looks like the Holy tank is a common occurrence when we have 32 year old aluminium tanks that have been left sitting for a number of years.  I just have to figure out if the right hand side has a hole too, or is about to have one.

I pulled the filter, pump, and electrical thingy out.  Is the thingy the fuel level sender?  There's four wires going in, and only two coming out for the fuel pump, so I'm assuming the fuel sender is in the long black plastic cylinder that unscrews from the tank.  Having said that, can you guys please watch the below video and see if you know what is rattling around inside the tank?  I can't for the life of me see what could be loose in there, or what else could be in there.  The overflow pipe at the top of the inside of the tank seems to have something moving, but doesn't seem to be the culprit... 

More fuel tank pics...

I guess I used to have a red tank.  Does this insulation look pretty standard, or a home made job?  I read somewhere that there was a recall to have this retro fitted.


Is that the fuel level sender at the bottom of the pic?


A close up of the hole before I sanded it back.


The hole is down there, where the dark bits are.  But the tank is otherwise so clean!


All looks pretty original, even has a BMW fuel hose!  The rubber damper wasn't too bad, just a bit loose and decaying and will need replacing.  I haven't tested the fuel pump yet, but have read I can connect 12V to see if it spins.  I think I'll wait for the fuel to evaporate first...

And having a poke around at the wires...    There's been some fiddling done by a previous owner.  This will be fun figuring all this out!

Found these ones tucked behind the radiator:


Up around the headlight/handle bar switch loom:


These two wires run down to the cover on the front of the engine and have been changed for some reason (the blue wire and the black wire from the blue connector).

Can anyone tell me what the Bosch thing is?  (Sorry for being lazy and not looking it up).




I guess that's where the starter relay is supposed to be.  I've seen other builds where this whole box has been moved somehow.  I'm going to simplify the wiring a little with a Motogadget mUnit to eliminate the fuses, and I won't need the BMU or gear position indicator so I'm not sure what this will mean to the end result for the loom.  I would like to retain the OEM speed sensor in the rear drive so am learning how this can be done.  I saw a member created a circuit/relay thingy a couple of years ago for this purpose but am not sure if he's still around.

All in all I reckon the wiring is in decent shape considering it was put there 32 years ago!  There is a bit of electrical tape near the injectors wiring which can't be OEM but I'll see how I go.

That effort screwed into the crankcase looks like it's trying to be an oil temperature sender. The blue and black wires look like they're replacements for the OEM violet/black coolant temperature sender and green/brown oil pressure switch.
The Bosch box, BTW, is the ignition control unit (ICU).

Dai wrote:That effort screwed into the crankcase looks like it's trying to be an oil temperature sender. The blue and black wires look like they're replacements for the OEM violet/black coolant temperature sender and green/brown oil pressure switch.
The Bosch box, BTW, is the ignition control unit (ICU).

Champion Dai, thanks a lot 

The first pic shows the green and brown wires for the oil pressure switch have been disconnected then, or perhaps replaced.  There are two other wires coming out of that crankcase location, so perhaps they are the coolant temp, or vice versa.  I'll investigate and figure it out.

Next thing I have to do today if figure out how to print out the wiring diagrams onto A3 from the Portal

nods wrote:
Is that the fuel level sender at the bottom of the pic?

Oh wow - the downloads section.  Please disregard this question, I found the answer 1.5 seconds after visiting the downloads section for the first time.  Thanks for this 

G'day nods
                 You really don't have to change that much to get a good naked bike that can be used two up.  Just adding your own personal touch, such as  paint scheme, wider bars, and screen is often all it takes.
There are many fantastic looking K's that members have added their own touch too, without taking away the originality.
Welcome to the forum mate, and enjoy the build. 

smithy wrote:G'day nods
                 You really don't have to change that much to get a good naked bike that can be used two up.  Just adding your own personal touch, such as  paint scheme, wider bars, and screen is often all it takes.
There are many fantastic looking K's that members have added their own touch too, without taking away the originality.
Welcome to the forum mate, and enjoy the build. 

.....or, buy a naked. If you can find one!


I hope the exhausts featured in the link sound better in real life. It all sounds a bit agricultural to me.

nods wrote:More fuel tank pics...

I guess I used to have a red tank.  Does this insulation look pretty standard, or a home made job?  I read somewhere that there was a recall to have this retro fitted.


Is that the fuel level sender at the bottom of the pic?


A close up of the hole before I sanded it back.


The hole is down there, where the dark bits are.  But the tank is otherwise so clean!


All looks pretty original, even has a BMW fuel hose!  The rubber damper wasn't too bad, just a bit loose and decaying and will need replacing.  I haven't tested the fuel pump yet, but have read I can connect 12V to see if it spins.  I think I'll wait for the fuel to evaporate first...

Nods,
After you posted on my thread I've been thinking about another alternative to a TIG weld on a K tank and it jogged my memory about a product I used a couple of times "pre welding set"  You could try this product  https://www.alumiweld.com/
If carried out properly it's very good but does require quite a lot of heat. IMO it would be best carried out with a small oxy/acetylene torch to get lots of heat into a small concentrated area. 
If you buy some experiment first on a bit of scrap about the same thickness as your tank. Be careful where you get the filler rod, it's as hard as f##k!
Good luck.

P.S You're lucky so and so as yours has gone through under the tank-mine was on the outside of bothe sides 

smithy wrote:G'day nods
                 You really don't have to change that much to get a good naked bike that can be used two up.  Just adding your own personal touch, such as  paint scheme, wider bars, and screen is often all it takes.
There are many fantastic looking K's that members have added their own touch too, without taking away the originality.
Welcome to the forum mate, and enjoy the build. 

Thanks for the welcome Smithy, and damn it you stopped me in my tracks with that suggestion!  I did have it all planned out in my head how I was going to do this, and now I'm second guessing myself   It would be cheaper to keep it more original, and I understand the value (more sentimental than financial) of keeping a 32 year old bike closer to it's original form.  Hmm, I'll have a ponder...

Motorbike Mike wrote:

smithy wrote:G'day nods
                 You really don't have to change that much to get a good naked bike that can be used two up.  Just adding your own personal touch, such as  paint scheme, wider bars, and screen is often all it takes.
There are many fantastic looking K's that members have added their own touch too, without taking away the originality.
Welcome to the forum mate, and enjoy the build. 

.....or, buy a naked. If you can find one!


I hope the exhausts featured in the link sound better in real life. It all sounds a bit agricultural to me.

What link Mike?

Fuel pump spins up nicely.

Guess I need new front discs...  The rear looks good though.

Pretty sure there's been a fire on this bike at some point...  That would explain all the electrical tape around the injector wiring.

Ouch! That looks nasty.
Leaking tank for me!!!

Just been continue to familiarise myself with the wiring diagram and decipher what everything is and where everything goes.

I'm getting the feeling I'll be removing a fair bit of wire and simplifying things somewhat with the motogadget m-unit.

Is there any fancy product out there these days to re-wrap wiring harnesses, rather than electrical tape?

The pics show what I think must have been wiring for driving lights, and I think the two orange relays were for this purpose.  There's a little bit of other "custom" wiring but it doesn't look too bad.

I'm starting to think I might get the electrics sorted first, so I can make sure I've got mounts for relays and the computer before the frame is powder coated.  Then that got me thinking I should get the engine running before pulling things apart so I know all is good.

Do you guys recommend a compression and leakdown test before proceeding?

Cheers,
Elliot

There's always this stuff, nods:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5mm-Dia-19M-62Ft-Long-Spiral-Cable-Wire-Wrap-Tube-Cord-Pipe-/192072948489?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276

Paul.

Although it's listed as 5 mm dia it does expand to fit larger bundles of cables.

If you want the factory look of the modified harness look on eBay for black fabric harness tape. You'll soon find what you need. 👍

sidecar paul wrote:There's always this stuff, nods:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5mm-Dia-19M-62Ft-Long-Spiral-Cable-Wire-Wrap-Tube-Cord-Pipe-/192072948489?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276

Paul.

Although it's listed as 5 mm dia it does expand to fit larger bundles of cables.

Cheers for that Paul.

Motorbike Mike wrote:If you want the factory look of the modified harness look on eBay for black fabric harness tape. You'll soon find what you need. 👍

Yep looks good thanks Mike.  Also the self vulcanising/amalgamating tape looks handy.

Is this an aftermarket brace to firm up the front forks?  I can't see it on RealOEM.  I guess it would explain why I don't have any dust seals.

Just continuing with the slow tinkering when I get an hour after the kids are in bed.  Smithy did give me pause for thought as to which direction I should go, but alas purists, I am too excited about doing my own thing and getting a little bit creative with my cut-down K.

These handle bars can't be standard on an RT can they?  They seem so narrow, and very cool and perfect for what I want!  The bike looks fantastic with the cluster off and the wires out of the way.  I couldn't resist putting on some grips and a couple of planks of wood on the frame to approximate my sitting position with the bars and low seat.  Felt good to me (for the 5 minutes I was sitting there day dreaming about being out on the road) 

Looks like brand new tyres were put on and never used.  Shame they were flat and a few years old...  Are these Bridgestones considered a good choice?

"Looks like brand new tyres were put on and never used.  Shame they were flat and a few years old...  Are these Bridgestones considered a good choice?"


Many consider the Bridgestone BT45 a good tyre. I was happy with mine, though I have Pirelli Sport Demons on now.

Depending on your riding locations and style, the BT45 having a harder compound in the centre of the tread means if there is a lot of straight riding, you won't get a flat section in the centre of the tyre as readily. If you avoid the freeways and are always leaning, not as useful.

Bill

I only use the BT45 on the Ks and find them fantastic, especially in cold wet weather when they are needed. Bill's sojourn over here on my K was on BT45s. The harder compound in the centre means they last well but it has never ever scared me or misbehaved.

We have mostly twisties here and we do get rain and they are really nice even in cold wet conditions the with the BT45. I didn't find the sides wore prematurely and on the rear the centre wore a little before the sides but no complaints- last rear gave me over 12k miles. They really need high pressures to feel like they are running on rails, I run 38psi front and 42psi solo rear but go 45psi rear with panniers filled or with a pillion.

88 uses different tyres and will speak highly of those too and we ride in similar conditions.

nods wrote:Is this an aftermarket brace to firm up the front forks?  I can't see it on RealOEM.  I guess it would explain why I don't have any dust seals.

It is. You should be able to get fork gaiters over the top of them - I'm running a fork brace on LFB and it did make a helluva difference. Fork gaiters = highly recommended over dust seals, but don't buy cheap ones!!

Hello!

It could look like this.

Cheers

The bars look very like RS bars?

Definitely not RT/LT bars.

Not the lovely RS bars, Olaf; they're welded at the sharp bend by the clamps as can be seen on my solo here:-



Paul.

Paul

Of course you are right, had a look at my ones when I was outside earlier.

Did you really lift off the ignition pad to show me.....now I like the blue switches there......

Wish all K looked like yours do!!

Of course, nothing is too much trouble for the forum! 

Actually it's an old pic.


Paul.

indian036 wrote:"Looks like brand new tyres were put on and never used.  Shame they were flat and a few years old...  Are these Bridgestones considered a good choice?"


Many consider the Bridgestone BT45 a good tyre. I was happy with mine, though I have Pirelli Sport Demons on now.

Depending on your riding locations and style, the BT45 having a harder compound in the centre of the tread means if there is a lot of straight riding, you won't get a flat section in the centre of the tyre as readily. If you avoid the freeways and are always leaning, not as useful.

Bill

Thanks Bill 

Chocolate wrote:Hello!

It could look like this.

Cheers

Wow that's flash!

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:I only use the BT45 on the Ks and find them fantastic, especially in cold wet weather when they are needed. Bill's sojourn over here on my K was on BT45s. The harder compound in the centre means they last well but it has never ever scared me or misbehaved.

We have mostly twisties here and we do get rain and they are really nice even in cold wet conditions the with the BT45. I didn't find the sides wore prematurely and on the rear the centre wore a little before the sides but no complaints- last rear gave me over 12k miles. They really need high pressures to feel like they are running on rails, I run 38psi front and 42psi solo rear but go 45psi rear with panniers filled or with a pillion.

88 uses different tyres and will speak highly of those too and we ride in similar conditions.

Thanks Olaf, that's a good review.  And thanks for the pressures too.

Dai wrote:

nods wrote:Is this an aftermarket brace to firm up the front forks?  I can't see it on RealOEM.  I guess it would explain why I don't have any dust seals.

It is. You should be able to get fork gaiters over the top of them - I'm running a fork brace on LFB and it did make a helluva difference. Fork gaiters = highly recommended over dust seals, but don't buy cheap ones!!

Excellent, cheers Dai!

sidecar paul wrote:Not the lovely RS bars, Olaf; they're welded at the sharp bend by the clamps as can be seen on my solo here:-



Paul.

Thanks for the pic Paul.  My bars must be aftermarket.  The PO must have given up early in the piece with his attempt at his project.

Dai wrote:You should be able to get fork gaiters over the top of them - I'm running a fork brace on LFB and it did make a helluva difference. Fork gaiters = highly recommended over dust seals, but don't buy cheap ones!!

I bought these gaiters from Motorwork for my 89K100. They fit perfectly and are at a good price.
http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=40&Ct=MA&SbCt=BA_15_40_MA_35

As far as tyres go, you don't have a lot of choice for the standard K100 wheels. Bridgestone are great tyres but the only ones that fit are the BT45 but the front is prone to scalloping.
Pirelli Sport Demons are the best option if you want to ride a little harder. They are a bias-ply but constructed with a softer, single compound. They perform really well but if its just town and freeway riding you'll be doing it might chew out fairly quickly in the centre.
There are no radial options now unless you want to go adventure tyres.

You can safely go up one size to a 140/80 which will improve the performance.
There's lots of discussion on the forum about tyres.... just use the search tool on the Portal page

Holister wrote:

Dai wrote:You should be able to get fork gaiters over the top of them - I'm running a fork brace on LFB and it did make a helluva difference. Fork gaiters = highly recommended over dust seals, but don't buy cheap ones!!

I bought these gaiters from Motorwork for my 89K100. They fit perfectly and are at a good price.
http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=40&Ct=MA&SbCt=BA_15_40_MA_35

As far as tyres go, you don't have a lot of choice for the standard K100 wheels. Bridgestone are great tyres but the only ones that fit are the BT45 but the front is prone to scalloping.
Pirelli Sport Demons are the best option if you want to ride a little harder. They are a bias-ply but constructed with a softer, single compound. They perform really well but if its just town and freeway riding you'll be doing it might chew out fairly quickly in the centre.
There are no radial options now unless you want to go adventure tyres.

You can safely go up one size to a 140/80 which will improve the performance.
There's lots of discussion on the forum about tyres.... just use the search tool on the Portal page

Thanks a lot for all that info Holister.  I've seen lots about Shinkos too.  Those gaiters look the goods 

Those bars could be from an airhead R80/100 RS check that they are 22mm and not 7/8 which is 0.1mm bigger in diameter.

RicK G wrote:Those bars could be from an airhead R80/100 RS check that they are 22mm and not 7/8 which is 0.1mm bigger in diameter.

Thanks for the measurements Rick.  The bars look to be 22mm, at least where the throttle was and there's no paint.

If the OEM throttle tube fits then you can be fairly sure they are 22mm.

Had a little movement at the station as I've got a mate who has offered to paint the tank.  This meant I had to get the hole patched up and seal the inside of the tank with some of that magic KBS coating tank sealer.  Pretty sure this forum put me onto KBS Coatings, so I paid them a visit in Wollongong.

Trap for young players who are hacking into the tank, I found I actually introduced new holes at the seams when I cut the fairing mounts off.




I patched up the hole (that was caused by water in the tank) with some JB Weld



I cleaned the tank with the tank sealer kit chemicals - damn clean!




And now she's all nicely sealed up



I'm going to cut out the two top rear bars and move them up to make more of a straight line for the seat.  Still no idea how to make a seat - you tube has left me confused but I haven't searched too hard.

Aaaaaand 5 years later I'm back 

Just had to get a divorce/my life sorted out.  My ex took everything except my tools and the K100 - she took a look at it and thought there's no way it was worth anything 

Great to see this great community is still thriving.  Now to re-learn everything I've forgotten...

Welkom back.  

Same circus and you'll recognise some of the clowns  

Five years is nuthin'.
Welcome back.
Got any thoughts re. the starter/clutch/sidestand circuit?