After having my pannier come off from kicking it, even though it was locked on. I decided to do a bit of manufacturing to make sure that they can't come off again. After looking at the problem I concluded the best way was to plug the square holes the latches go into. 

First I made a couple of patterns out of scrap wood and cast them in aluminium at the North Pine Trades Guild. I wasn't happy with the square profile on the corners so ended up rounding them off in the mill and facing with the lathe.

 Now that I have done them it if I did them again I would cast them with the corners rounded. The retainer is held in place with one 6mm Allen bolt. At the moment I'm working out whether to paint them black or leave them as machined.
Regards Martin.

I like Martin

Throw you a couple of bucks for  you time and guild resources can you make me a set  ?

I preempted your request Matt the next versions will have all surfaces on the plug part machined, and will be sold via the North Pine Trades Guild for $30.00 Au a set. Postage if required will be extra.
Regards Martin.

#metoo.

Dave it looks like I'm going to be busy on Tuesday.
Regards Martin.

Outstanding! What's that North Pines Trades Guild web address for orders?

Volador I've just got off the phone to the treasurer of the guild and they will ship to the US. However the shipping cost could be a killer. On Monday when the Post Office is open I'll try and get a price for packaging and postage. I'll let you know whether to order through the guild or myself. And I'll have to sort out how they want payment. As it stands it looks like I'm going to be in charge of it. Due to the fact mine was a prototype and I didn't consider doing more than maybe two sets, there is probably a quicker and easier way of doing it. I'll have to talk to the brains trust on Tuesday.
Regards Martin.

RightO, put me down for a dozen in Black if possible
Ships to NYC, NY 11103
I can pay using any of the online payment types

• Authorize.Net
  
• PayPal
  
• Google Checkout
  
• Amazon Payments
  
• Dwolla
  
• Stripe
  
• Braintree
  
• Venmo
  
• Bitcoin
  

On bikes with a few miles on them, one of the reasons that the cases don't lock on really well is that the ridges on the Z rack right behind the square hole get worn down.

Example:



You can combat this by putting some rubber or strong foam between the case and rack right behind the hole.  In the picture above you can see the rectangular outline where somebody stuck on some foam.

Here's an alternative idea I posted some time ago.

https://www.k100-forum.com/t11503-pannier-security

Paul.

volador wrote:RightO, put me down for a dozen in Black if possible
Ships to NYC, NY 11103
I can pay using any of the online payment types

• Authorize.Net
  
• PayPal
  
• Google Checkout
  
• Amazon Payments
  
• Dwolla
  
• Stripe
  
• Braintree
  
• Venmo
  
• Bitcoin
  

Martin, I'd be interested in a set as well. Thanks for sharing this concept.

Have you considered using some sort of a insert/twist/lock retaining device rather than the Allen bolt to hold this together on the bike? I remember seeing a device some time ago which had a spring-loaded button on the outside end, and wires (half-bearings?) on tbe other end which retracted into the shaft when you pushed on the spring-loaded front button... I'm sure this has a technical name but it's been too long ago for me to remember it, yet I hope you get the idea. Use of such a retaining device would make mounting and removing the aluminum block a snap.

DadofHedgehog wrote:

Have you considered using some sort of a insert/twist/lock retaining device rather than the Allen bolt to hold this together on the bike?

I guess the retaining device I'm thinking of is called a "locking quick-release pin". This website has a bunch of them listed under the name: https://www.mcmaster.com/pin-fasteners

That exchange answers my question about their convenience in actual use.  It appears you are on a good path! 

I considered a few different way's of retaining it. 1/ Was a lock and key 2/ Was spring loaded with an "R" clip 3/ A stud and nut. After thinking about all four methods and discussing it  I went with the Allen bolt under the KISS rule.
Regards Martin.

Another thing you could do to keep the "hook" from moving forward that would be easy and cheap is to drill a hole and use an M4 clevis pin.

MartinW wrote: I went with the Allen bolt under the KISS rule.

That requires no altering of the rack that could subject it to fracture from vibration and provides a firm fit that the array of fasteners at McMaster-Carr probably could not provide unless the retainer were machined or drilled to a dimension specific to the selected fastener.

Anybody wishing to order a set of retainers can contact the North Pine Trades Guild  and go to the contact page and fill in your details and request.http://northpinetradesguild.org.au/ The Guild is a non profit organization run by volunteers on two half days, Tuesdays and Fridays and full day Sunday. The Guild is dedicated to passing on and demonstrating trade skills. Recently  a sizable sum of money was donated by the Guild to farmers drought relief. They also donate time and money to other worthy causes. 

Due to the fact my set was virtually the prototype the new ones will be improved and change slightly in dimensions. They are going to be made out of a cast billet and fully machined on all of the outer retaining block surfaces. The inner clamp part might be reduced in size and thickness. I made my clamps out of a bit of cast scrap.The appearance will be virtually the same slight changes in some dimensions. I'll be switching to the new version as they are fully machined and look more professional than my ones. All efforts to meet orders will be attempted but Christmas is approaching fast.
Merry Christmas regards Martin.

MartinW wrote: Due to the fact my set was virtually the prototype the new ones will be improved and change slightly in dimensions.

Perhaps personal monogramming or Celtic knotwork on the outer face will be offered. I see upscale possibilities here, Martin.
 

Laitch don't put any suggestions into their heads. I only envisioned doing a set for myself and maybe a couple of sets for mates. I've had to enroll a retired ships engineer to do all the machining as I'm way to slow machining. I had come up with a couple of other things to cast and machine but I'm not game to post and now I'm too busy.
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:Anybody wishing to order a set of retainers can contact the North Pine Trades Guild  and go to the contact page and fill in your details and request.http://northpinetradesguild.org.au/ The Guild is a non profit organization run by volunteers on two half days, Tuesdays and Fridays and full day Sunday. The Guild is dedicated to passing on and demonstrating trade skills. Recently  a sizable sum of money was donated by the Guild to farmers drought relief. They also donate time and money to other worthy causes. 

All efforts to meet orders will be attempted but Christmas is approaching fast.
Merry Christmas regards Martin.

MartinW, Thou Art truly a Beneficent One!

Went to the Trades Guild today and made up some patterns for casting billets. The billets were cat and were cooling when I left. On Friday Bernie and I will start the machining process. 
Regards Martin.

Laitch wrote:

MartinW wrote: Due to the fact my set was virtually the prototype the new ones will be improved and change slightly in dimensions.

Perhaps personal monogramming or Celtic knotwork on the outer face will be offered. I see upscale possibilities here, Martin.
 

Might appeal to some Eccentrics.......

Sorry the best I can do is tie a piece of string around them with a reef knot.
Regards Martin.

After casting up 8 aluminium billets the machining has been progressing. The major portion of the machining has been done and most of the holes have been drilled ready for tapping. On Friday we are hoping to get close to completion, machining the finishing curves on the corners and start finishing off, ready for painting. The backing retainers have not been started, and to speed up the process we will probably use aluminium flat bar.
Regards Martin.

The Trades Guild started back up today. We accomplished a fair bit and the finishing off was completed as well as cutting out the backing plates. These will be drilled on Friday and the painting will be started. I had a talk to the guild President and suggested that 100% of the proceeds from the sale of the retainers be donated to the fire relief. He agreed and we will look into other ways of helping.
Regards Martin.

 

great idea martin

Trying to do them production line.
Regards Martin.

Finished today and then undercoated with etch primer and two coats of Dulux satin black. Fifteen sets sold two pending and two spare sets. Once paid for and shipped 100% of the proceeds will be forwarded to Fire Relief. I would like to thank Bernie, Bernies effort in doing these is much appreciated as was his manufacture of multiple jigs to enable us to speed up the process. Tuesday we will probably cast a couple of ingots just incase.
Regards Martin.

The procedure and costs for ordering the retainers is as follows. The retainers are $30.00 Au per set and weigh 40 grams. Padded post bag is $2.00 Au up to 500 grams Economy Postage Untracked is $16.00 Au, Economy Postage tracked is $24.00 Au Express Postage is $39.00 Au. Once you have worked out the postage send your postage preference along with your name and address and your Paypal account details either direct to the Trades Guild  http://northpinetradesguild.org.au/index.php/contact or me. Once the order has been received you will be invoiced through Paypal, after Paypal acknowledges payment the retainers will be sent. All the current batch of retainers (20) have tentatively been accounted for. We decided to go Paypal to cover and protect everybody, however Paypal is dragging their heels in letting us set up the account, apparently due to the fact we are a charity. Hopefully we can start invoicing and dispatching soon. The next batch of retainers will started on Friday.
Regards Martin.

Going well on the next smaller batch. $450.00 Au raised so far with a few more sales pending.
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote: Going well on the next smaller batch. $450.00 Au raised so far with a few more sales pending.
Regards Martin.

Well done!!!!

At the moment we have a problem where to send the money. A woman who raised over $50 million Au has found that due to the way the government set up Rural Fire's donation system all donations must be spent on equipment and training.  https://www.theguardian.com/australia-news/2020/jan/07/nsw-fires-massive-influx-of-donations-pose-a-nice-challenge-for-rfs-says-fire-chief As we would prefer it to go to people who were affected we are currently we are trying to work out where best to send the money raised. The Guild would also like to thank DadofHedgehog for his very generous donation and all the others that have contributed .
Regards Martin.

Well done, Martin! 
Do you know how much the postage to US of A would be?
Cheers,
Lawrence

    

Good job!

Sorry for the confusion, Martin.  I understood your earlier explanation addressed postage within Oz only.

No worries I should have said that was the US postage costs.
Regards Martin.

Thanks guys, all of the first batch have now been sold. The second batch six sets has a reduced retaining lip but it doesn't impact on function or appearance. They are about to be painted. There is one set of the prototype left these are however made LH and RH wider lip and slightly bulkier. I've posted pictures of the retainers mounted in the following order prototype, batch 1 and batch 2. First picture is a picture of batch 1 black and batch 2 aluminium.
Regards Martin.

My rear shock is shot to the point the bump stop has disintegrated. Bottoming out has caused the head of the retainer bolts to rub on the final drive. It would be advisable to fit a bolt with a lower profile head. I just had  another look and I had a slight bend in my footplate enough for it to hit the final drive. A slight tweak and all is well.
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:After having my pannier come off from kicking it, even though it was locked on. I decided to do a bit of manufacturing to make sure that they can't come off again. After looking at the problem I concluded the best way was to plug the square holes the latches go into. 

First I made a couple of patterns out of scrap wood and cast them in aluminium at the North Pine Trades Guild. I wasn't happy with the square profile on the corners so ended up rounding them off in the mill and facing with the lathe.

 Now that I have done them it if I did them again I would cast them with the corners rounded. The retainer is held in place with one 6mm Allen bolt. At the moment I'm working out whether to paint them black or leave them as machined.
Regards Martin.

Being very happy with the added security, I was hovewer a bit troubled (to only a teensy-weensy degree) about the Allen wrench labor involved in switching these excellent Oz case retainers from bike to bike (I have 2 K bikes). I began to research D-ring-head bolts and found this as a better quick-release solution:

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/seat-posts/thorn-quick-release-lever-m6-to-replace-allen-key-seat-bolt-of-most-thorn-bikes/?geoc=US

Once the QR M6 bolt arrives, I might have to bore out the inner plate of the Oz retainer to accept the QR bolt's inner flange... maybe.

Of course, clearance on the RH shaft side is potentially an issue. Both of my K bikes are Paralever-equipped... hovewer, this is not an issue for me. My K100RS 4-valver pulls a Flexit hack, and the bike and the hack lean together, preventing use of a case on the right side because that hard case would unfortunately lean right into the body of the Flexit. Therefore, I habitually switch only the left-side Oz retainer from bike to bike to secure the left hard case on either bike... the right Oz retainer stays on the K75 so it doesn't need a QR release.

Just wanted to put this additional mod out here as info.

A great idea if you have the clearance, unfortunately not enough clearance on mine. Piccies would be great showing the conversion.
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:A great idea if you have the clearance, unfortunately not enough clearance on mine. Piccies would be great showing the conversion.
Regards Martin.

So, in the end I went with another solution:

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/01234020?rd=k&tg=Recommendations&tpp=false&searchAhead=true&searchAheadTerm=01234020&typahddsp=01234020&hdrsrh=true

Got them today.  I'll hack off the excess length of the threaded shaft to match the MartinW - provided Allen head bolt's length, taper the end threads a bit with a file, and... Voila.

The really neat thing about these is their very wide knurled head diameter - it extends almost to the edges of the pannier retainer's back plate.  Thus, it's easy to grasp and turn, even with a gloved hand.  For clearance, the large knurled head is about / only as thick as the MartinW- provided Allen bolt's head.

I already added a large-diameter wave (spring) washer to each knurled bolt to hold them in place when tightened.

NOTE: unlike the picture on the website, but exactly like the description reads, these beauties are "shoulderless", so the shaft is threaded right up to the knurled head.

Hope this is a useful added mod at a good price for the retainer users here.

A worthy mod if you are removing the panniers frequently. Mine only come off when I'm doing a thorough clean. I actually have the correct size Allen key Velcroed under my seat it fits the retainers the bar end mirrors and the TPMS mount. However I'll see if I can locate the knurled nuts locally or i could turn up a couple at the Trades Guild. I resolved my clearance problem even more by straightening my RH foot plate carefully in a press.
Regards Martin.