So I have taken my K100RS completely down and apart. My goal was to stop the smoking that happens after it’s warmed up and I rest it on I stand for a quick drink. After doing a little research on here I’m getting the idea that it may not be worth cracking the engine open to redo all the gaskets (planned on buying a whole gasket set). 

She was running fine before but did do a serious smoke start. I ride mostly with a bunch of Harley guys (I have one too, but way more prefer the K!) and they have their issues but I stand out so bad and try to always leave last in the group now because I’m just being considerate.

So yeah is it worth it to replace seals and gaskets to help stop the smoking or will it even matter/make much difference after about 5K?? miles??

I  have three Ks and they all smoke different amounts for, I guess, different reasons. Try stopping the bike on the kill switch and coasting the last few yards. This lets the oil in the head return to the the sump before you dump it on its sidestand. This seems to work most times for my worst offending bike.

I appreciate the thought but I’d really like it if I could find a solution that lets me ride it without doing something as such.
Is it just not worth it to replace gaskets and seals? Did they all smoke when they were brand new??

If smoking on start up is the result of oil moving past the piston rings,  how will changing engine gaskets solve the problem?  
If you tilt the bike to the right for a short while upon stopping, then rest it on the side stand to dismount, it may well reduce the smoking on start up. 
My bike doesn't happen to have this problem, but it sure has an appetite for consuming oil when underway on the highways and byways.    Oddly enough, my old K100RS didn't smoke on start up either.  No clue why some K-bike have this problem, but others do not.

There's a suggestion that BMW introduced pinned piston rings fairly early in the K's life, supposedly to reduce smoking on start up. All I can say about that is I have a very early K100 that has never been bad for smoking, but just sometimes will kick out a bit.
I have a K75 that just doesn't smoke at all, and another K75 that loves to belch smoke, and keep on belching smoke for ages. I have stripped and rebuilt both engines and I couldn't see any differences in there. I can usually prevent the smoker by the 'killing and coasting' that I have mentioned.
Don't think there's any gaskets in there that could be blamed, and the two traditional causes of a smoking engine - worn valve stem seals and worn bores/rings would manifest themselves more during riding - stem seals when you close the throttle and the engine sucks oil past them, and rings/bores when you open the throttle and blow-by overpressures the crankcase forcing oil out of the breather and in to the intake.
Depending on the history of your bike (they're all a bit old now), the rings might be a bit gummed up so a strip down and check would never hurt. I'll stand correction, but that seems the most likely culprit to me. You'd no doubt check the stem seals too if you were doing this - all I'm suggesting is that I wouldn't automatically assume it would be the stem seals, and your bike might seem to have a clean bill of health and still smoke.

I am new to this, but it’s like to minimize it as much as possible. Considering I am painting and customizing some aesthetics on the bike to make it my own; I would like to have it in best shape.
She doesn’t smoke hardly or at all while riding, just the quick smoke bomb when she starts up after being set on the kickstand once warmed up. That’s what BrickRider2 is saying?

My logic to do the gasket set ( which I believe does have piston rings in the kit ) was just to redo it all to try n put a cap on it all together but I am open to many and all suggestions on mechanical level. I understand the coast in, I just don’t know if I want to rely on that as much. The right side tip while everyone else parks/just to cool it down for a sec and have oil drain makes sense, and I may have to start this practice, but would love to have a clean start and not leave the patrons at the cafe blasted, or any sidewalk goers when I leave. But trying to be a nice citizen...if I want to make a scene I can to that shit on my Harley... the K is my “Lady” my Xena! She can throw down but she doesn’t have to boast

The year of your brick will determine whether replacing your rings might help, but a drastic solution to a minor problem. And if they aren't pinned it would be a waste of time and money. A mates Brick that was a prodigious smoker had been sitting for quite a few years. And after clocking up quite a few thousand K's it started to settle down and eventually stopped. Others with smokers have successfully reduced or stopped the smoking by using MMO or Sea Foam. Others have used high detergent oil for a 1000 K's or so. And others have used the Italian tune up. Or use the tilting method. 
Regards Martin.

How bad does your bike smoke? I've had five bricks so far and even the 4 valve K100's that slurp oil hardly let go with more than a brief puff on starting, and never when they're on the center stand. It's said that synthetic oil, especially lighter grades gets past the rings more easily than conventional oil. You might try using Castrol GTX 20w50 which is an often recommended oil. It's good oil and Walmart has it at a pretty good price in five quart jugs.

It will require a bit of vigilance, but you can maintain the oil level so it just shows at the bottom of the sight glass. This will minimize the amount of oil that will flow into the cylinder bores. Then, when you shut down the engine, just straddle the bike for a moment to let the oil flow back to the sump before you dismount and put it on the stand. Use the time to remove your gloves and unfasten your helmet. If you can't wear gloves and a helmet with the Harley guys, use the time to fuss with something on the handlebars. About 5-10 seconds is all you need.

You can also use the center stand when you park. Bricks hardly ever smoke when they're parked on the center stand. It will expose you to derision from the Harley guys, but pretty much guarantees you won't be fogging the neighborhood.

Thanks guys! All good info! ..and yeah hahahaha Point-7 .. they’ll always have to bitch about something or be fixing something on their not so reliable bikes.. haha!!

I’ll just try the cool down to drain to sump method for now.. everything else works great!
She only smokes for about 10 seconds or less, real quick burn off but I do feel like I’m trying to do a David copper field trick and vanish through a smoke bomb, which is kinda cool in a way but, And it does help people reference that the bike is older, because on first glance everyone still thinks it’s from the future!

My 84 K100 RT I have since 36,000 miles, its currently close to 90,000. It can do the smokiest start up if I deliberately drop it on to the side stand and let it tick over before killing the engine. I mean smoke like the Bond move 'make smoke' in the boat chase.

But it never needs top up from one oil change to the next. If I put slightly right and on centre stand, no smoke start up.

My 83 K100RS is exactly the same.

I had been using 10/40 synthetic oil in the RT, changed to 20/50 and seriously reduced. So, its currently in both of them.

Neither ever need top up.

Piston ring end clearances and unpinned rings.....one has to just accept it.

If you are gonna change rings put in K75 pistons too.....

My brick doesn't seem to loose oil between services. I use the oil PS5 mentions and don't really have the smoke problem. Also I have the oil at the bottom of the red ring while warm and at idle. The level while cold increases more than normal over time (and I keep the coolant level at the full line only when warm)

I've done about 20,000 miles and only seen it smoke three times. Once when I first started it, after it sat for years, understandable. Another time I had to push it a distance, at an angle, understandable.

The other time, as Murphy's law demands, was the first ride I had with the club I'm in. It was the first and only time I rode into an angle parking space. Normally I parallel park. This road had more camber than usual. This time it smoked way worse than the other times. I think the combination of angle parking and camber has something to do with it. Might be worth experimenting with that a bit.

Since in the US you ride on the other (wrong) side of the road, that should lessen the camber effect. I spose reversing in would help here, and make it worse there. Maybe that's why bricks have a ridiculous side stand angle, it would help in the US but make it worse in OZ. (I've been told, but a bit skeptical, that in the US they don't have a camber, or only one camber)

If you like the side stand, another thing to try would be a packer under the stand.

Ten seconds wouldn't bother me in the least. If it bothers your Harley buddies I'd say "listen girls it will all be over in ten seconds"

By the way, I'm interested in your Harley, is it an Evo? I almost got one when I returned to riding but my offer wasn't taken. Am I right in thinking they're easy to maintain? That's one of the things I like about them. If I got it I spose I'd be on a Harley forum.

Regarding the lean angle on the side stand, it's just a hunch, but I suspect it is intended to lower the height of the seat when parked so a person shorter than 2m (6'6") can swing a leg over it when they're wearing riding gear.

Proof? Can anyone who isn't an Olympic high jumper swing a leg over a brick that is parked on the center stand?

True, I never thought about that, probably cause I'm 6'2" but I manage it easy, even with the bags on. Please don't ask me if I sometimes get lazy and nudge a bag with my foot.

Point-Seven-five wrote:Can anyone who isn't an Olympic high jumper swing a leg over a brick that is parked on the center stand?

Someone who mounts using a foot peg can.

Neither of mine belch on startup (okay, so one's not running atm) but I can make one of them do it on command. Get the engine hot, then park on a good slope on the sidestand. Leave for five minutes. The army can then use me for a primary smokescreen

Laitch wrote:

Point-Seven-five wrote:Can anyone who isn't an Olympic high jumper swing a leg over a brick that is parked on the center stand?

Someone who mounts using a foot peg can.

Exactly! And that's why the bike leans so much on the side stand. You can't use the foot peg without possibly bending the stand.

Point-Seven-five wrote:

Laitch wrote:

Point-Seven-five wrote:Can anyone who isn't an Olympic high jumper swing a leg over a brick that is parked on the center stand?

Someone who mounts using a foot peg can.

Exactly!  And that's why the bike leans so much on the side stand.  You can't use the foot peg without possibly bending the stand.

Exactly what? That it doesn't take a high jumper to mount the moto when it's on the center stand if a foot peg is used—or something else?

Sure, you can mount using a foot peg when the side stand is down. Mount and dismount using the right-side foot peg like some motorcycle cops all over the country choose to do when they want to stay clear of traffic flow or other hazards. Not as much weight is borne by the stand when that is done while counter-weighting.

The moto leans so much on the stand because it's a heavy Brick and that degree of lean creates a wide triangle that resists tipping in either direction with the added benefit that it can ease mounting, but the rider's weight can still bear down on it excessively if the rider plops into the saddle in a state of careless bliss after a plate of breaded pork loin and fries—not to make too fine a point of all this.  

Some time ago another thread wandered (these threads do wander don't they?) into sidestand territory. I made myself a promise to have a dual sidestand bike - none of my bikes have centrestands. This thread has reminded me, and I'll set to and get it done. I guess that seeing this dual-sidestand wonder in action will split onlooking bikers into three camps: 'Wow, why has no-one done that before!'; 'what an idiot!'; and lastly (k riders only); 'Aaaah....'

Do i order mine via Paypal or Free to MATES

CCFallse wrote:My logic to do the gasket set ( which I believe does have piston rings in the kit ) was just to redo it all to try n put a cap on it all together but I am open to many and all suggestions on mechanical level.

I am certain a gasket set from BMW, Motobins, Motorworks & etc., will not include piston rings, which rarely need replacing anyway in these engines with their Nikasil coated cylinders.

Two Wheels Better wrote:

CCFallse wrote:My logic to do the gasket set ( which I believe does have piston rings in the kit ) was just to redo it all to try n put a cap on it all together but I am open to many and all suggestions on mechanical level.

I am certain a gasket set from BMW, Motobins, Motorworks & etc., will not include piston rings, which rarely need replacing anyway in these engines with their Nikasil coated cylinders.

You are correct. They don't.

For changing the piston rings to have an effect you need to change the pistons to the pinned type and use rings for pinned pistons. 2 strokes need pinned to stop the ends of the rings eventually lining up at the ports causing a self destruct, the rings are shorter and any I had, they had a cut out.

Unless you are actually burning oil between oil changes it's a wasted exercise.

The simple solution to smoking on startup is to park the bike on the centre stand!

I use the sidestand briefly on arrival at destination, dismount, then flip the bike onto the main stand. Occasionally I am feeling lazy and leave it on the side stand but my '83 K100 will definitely smoke.Why didn't BMW put the K cylinder head on the right side?
I learnt this procedure from my boxer engined airhead which also needs the main stand to avoid smoke. 
Has the OP removed the centre stand from his K? Maybe a side stand is cooler when running with HD mates?

If the cylinder head had been on the right hand side the recess is going to end up holding water and crud and a lot of associated problems.

Lesser of 2 evils I think.

The lean to the right method for a few seconds after you shut the bike off, does help a lot and that's the method I use. Another thing that helps is cleaning or replacing the injectors. My bike was a long time sitter, 20 yrs or so, and when I replaced the injectors it helped a lot. Bike will still smoke once and a while. The nature of the best.

I came into possession of a bunch of old BMW Service Bulletins dated 1985/86/87 and the following is their solution for the smoking on startup. Seems it didn't work as well as they figured.


" Complaint: Smoking Upon Starting K100


Cause:After the motorcycle is parked on its side stand and started, bl-ue smoke is exhausted through the muffler. Oil consumption is so
small it cannot be measured, or is minimal. The design of the engine allows a sma11 amount of oi1 film to pass into the combustion chamber. Upon starting, the oil is burned with the fuel mixture causing blue smoke. If the rider uses the motorcycle for short trips and repeatedly starts and stops the engine, the oit film which passes into the combustion chamber will take longer to burn off.

Remedy: All- new motorcycles come from our factory with 20/20 weight oi1. This oil should be used for the first 600 miles. It will allow the rings to properly seat into the new "scanimet" treated cylinders. (Scanimet is a much harder surface than the previously used Nikasil,/Galnikal- ). With the 600-mite Service and engine oil and
filter change, the blue smoke from the exhaust should lessen considerablY. After 3000 miles, the piston rings should be properly seated, and blue smoking should be
minimal.

Very truly yours,
OF NORTH AMERICA, INC

BMW
-.-/,-'
Richard Dampf
National Technical Manager
Motorcycle GrouP
RD: ch
March 1985
Engine 11
For USA and Canada
OnlY "

Scanimet?  That's a new term for me.

I’ll be trying the rest on the right hand side after stopping. I unfortunately will be losing my center stand in moving my exhaust to right hand side to open up the visuals of tire on left side (I know not needed but that’s what’s happening).
I may try installing a second kickstand on right side just for gear shedding when I stop and then switch back to left when I actually walk away from bike.
Trying to keep the left kickstand just because I’d like to be parked the same as the others I ride with, being Harleys, triumphs, Hondas, etc..
as far as the Harleys are concerned daveyson, a few friends ride the evo and say how they think it is one of Harleys more reliable engines. I have a Fatboy Lo with a 103 ci. Kind of two side of the coin with the squatting low rider and the very tall K100.
And it just so happens that I am 6’1 and used to be a high jumper so I can get on while on center stand or however fairly easy.

But thanks again, I’ll not tear into the engine for now and try:
1) A tad thicker oil
2) the short right side/center rest before putting on kickstand
3) keeping th oil level just at the lower mark (I don’t notice any oil level drops between changes, just the quick smoke on startup)
Eventually I may try that second kickstand just to may the stops easier to the the oil settle back to sump.

Thanks! I’ll start posting on the build section soon!

CCFallse wrote:. . . it just so happens that I am 6’1 and used to be a high jumper . . .I’ll. . . try . . . the short right side/center rest before putting on kickstand.
Eventually I may try that second kickstand just to may the stops easier to the the oil settle back to sump.

That track-and-field skills are requisites for a rider's mounting of a Brick on a side stand is a ludicrous proposition. Admittedly, Tylenol—or the anti-inflammatory of choice—taken in advance of the occasion might aid the process for many of us owners. 

Moto-tilting for oil recovery is done in an interval of seconds, not minutes. Those high-jumping quads and glutes should be able to hang on for that long. 

Installing a second side stand will likely disturb the graceful profile of your project moto, turning it into what might appear to be a sport-mobility prototype.

Hahaha true! I am trying to keep the lines of the lady long and lean, I surely don’t want to look like my bike has a walker haha!

And these recommendations save me a lot of time money and headache.. and they are so simple! Thanks guys! I’ll always lean on the BMW side of the spectrum as opposed to the slightly less reliable and less aesthetically beautiful Har-harleys!

Thanks CCFallse.

"Why didn't BMW put the cylinder head on the right hand side? "

They did at first but having the drive line and exhaust on the same side was difficult, and there was a problem that the valve gear wasn't good at high revs.

I read it in a book "BMW K-series Motorcycles" although in the lower photo it looks like the final drive is on the left.

daveyson wrote:Thanks CCFallse.

"Why didn't BMW put the cylinder head on the right hand side? "

They did at first but having the drive line and exhaust on the same side was difficult, and there was a problem that the valve gear wasn't good at high revs.

I read it in a book "BMW K-series Motorcycles" although in the lower photo it looks like the final drive is on the left.

Don't believe the pictures as they are scanned back to front. BMW was never considering having the footbrake on the left and the gear lever on the right.

Thanks BobT,

I noticed the contradiction with the final drive, but I didn't notice that about the levers. So they made up their description on page 46 by looking at the mirrored picture on page 47?

Edit; Ah ha, even the BMW emblem is backwards.

Oooh!
...I'm going to get my copy of that book and check this!
Nice spot.

I have it too...it even has the rear brake MC on the left. Not. Its a mirrored photo.

With a secret engineering project like the K bike in the late 70's I wouldn't be surprised if more than mirror imaging was done to the photos that may have been released. In the days before Photoshop we had a guy on staff who was very talented with an airbrush and an X-Acto knife along with his ability with a camera.

Point-Seven-five wrote:In the days before Photoshop we had a guy on staff who was very talented with an airbrush and an X-Acto knife along with his ability with a camera.

What was it like to work at Hustler magazine?

I'm guessing that probably depends on which side of the camera you were on, Laitch 

chris846 wrote:I'm guessing that probably depends on which side of the camera you were on, Laitch 

His answer should be revealing.