I’ve had too many “professional” tyre fitters give me back a wheel that leaks from the bead or the valve attaching point (not through the valve body).

Time to get a tool so I can fit tyres myself, including re-doing it if the stuffer-upper is myself!

I’ve looked around the web for options, though many are primarily designed for car wheels, and up to 17”. 

I’d like to hear from anyone who has personal or near experience of any particular brand/model/source, that I can get in Australia without paying excessive freight costs.

Thanks in anticipation.   

Bill

I have been changing my tires for a few years now but the only tool that I have purchased has been the valve stem tool.  I break the bead with a hydraulic jack in a press but that is only because I have one.  Definitely not necessary as there are many ways to do this.  I use whatever pry bars I have within reach to separate tire from rim.  I had been using Dynabeads but in trying to eliminate a persistent vibration I built a balancing stand in order to attach weights to the rim.  Nothing fancy by any stretch but it does the job.

Out of desperation I once backed a van up onto a piece of 2"x6" the other end carefully place on the tire, the wheel well supported. It did break the bead but I wouldn't recommend it.
People use the side stand and the weight of the bike but I am not sure that is enough for some of the modern tires.
I would imagine you could build some sort of levered bead breaker fairly easily even out of wood and a sturdy hinge. An 6-8 foot 2"x4" would give you a lot of leverage.
If My tire guy retires I might just be doing that. He is down to two short days a week now so it might not be long.

My bead breaker is a wheelbarrow handle with a hinge and a short length of 2x4 that levers down from another chunk of 2x4 screwed to the wall.  I put some soapy water on the gap between the wheel and the tire so it can work down into the joint as I work it with the breaker. 

Tire Irons and rim protectors get the tire off and I have a tire balancer with a rare rear BMW wheel adaptor. 

If you want, I can take some photos of my breaker and post them.

About the wheel balancer.  I check the bare wheel for the heavy spot which I have found is often different from where the valve stem is located.  I mark the wheel and locate the dot on the tire at that point.  Balancing is a lot easier that way.

NoMar has warehousing in Australia. This is one of their basic models. It can be fitted to a hitch receiver or bolted to the floor. I don't have one of these but I'd like one to be given to me.

I use a pair of thesein conjunction with roofer kneepads and cuban coffee. They're designed to use the other end as tire spoons. I use the forged steel model because they're twice as long as those in the video.

I use one of these, around 200 English pounds which seems pricey, but it does get a fair amount of use. It's designed for car tyres - which it does fine - but works just as well with bike tyres. I did get a spangly nylon-ended tyre lever too (made by somebody local to me, but for sale on oohbay) which makes things a breeze and is kind to rims.

Price-wise it might not make sense for somebody with one bike, but it can pay for itself if you and your elite social circle are in the habit of swapping tyres or wheels around, or refinishing rims, or doing people favours for steel or firewood....

Motion pro do  nice sets, bead breaker and levers all in one

Gauntlett wrote:Motion pro do  nice sets, bead breaker and levers all in one

Hi Bill

I can also recommend these, if they are available in your wonderful country. My wife has used the old tyres in the garden (5 of them attached to the wall, all from k's with flowers growing out of them).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oCdWTP7Uphk&feature=youtu.be

I use a NoMar device similar to the one in Latch's video link, but bolted to the floor. It is never a drama removing an old tyre from a wheel using these. But, he makes it look too easy when installing a tyre. In reality, a second person is often needed to hold the tyre's bead from popping back onto the rim as the lever makes its rounds opposite. The rubber-coated clamps they supply that you clip over the rim's edge help to a degree. The last several inches of bead to pop onto the rim is always a struggle, pulled to near death tautness, the bead often tearing slightly and putting up a helluava fight before giving in due to your brute strength and perhaps that last drop of accumulated sweat dripping from brow onto the already heavily lubed rim and rubber, whilst you pull up and press down opposite the tension. Also, not every rim wants to be held in place by the two (x3) nylon nubbins that are supposed to sit agreeably between rim and bead, after you've turned them in or out to accommodate your rim's diametre. It's always easier on a narrower rim and tyre combo. Then there's 190/55 series tyres with drop centre issues...

Still, a bit of sweat and satisfaction at a job well done (by yourself) without having to pay the lowest paid member of the average motorbike shop's team to scratch your rims when you can do it yourownbadself, is a plus.

Two Wheels Better wrote:I use a NoMar device similar to the one in Latch's video link, but bolted to the floor. It is never a drama removing an old tyre from a wheel using these. But, he makes it look too easy when installing a tyre. In reality, a second person is often needed to hold the tyre's bead from popping back onto the rim as the lever makes its rounds opposite. The rubber-coated clamps they supply that you clip over the rim's edge help to a degree. The last several inches of bead to pop onto the rim is always a struggle, pulled to near death tautness, the bead often tearing slightly and putting up a helluava fight before giving in due to your brute strength and perhaps that last drop of accumulated sweat dripping from brow onto the already heavily lubed rim and rubber, whilst you pull up and press down opposite the tension. Also, not every rim wants to be held in place by the two (x3) nylon nubbins that are supposed to sit agreeably between rim and bead, after you've turned them in or out to accommodate your rim's diametre. It's always easier on a narrower rim and tyre combo. Then there's 190/55 series tyres with drop centre issues...

Still, a bit of sweat and satisfaction at a job well done (by yourself) without having to pay the lowest paid member of the average motorbike shop's team to scratch your rims when you can do it yourownbadself, is a plus.

I use the nomar as well and find a nylon strap around a cast spoke and base helps keep the wheel from turning in the clamps. Also heating or putting the tire in the sun for a bit helps with that last inch or two.

Thanks for all the input. 

I finished up getting one like Chris's.
Not red, so it doesn't go as fast . . .




I think I'll put the bead unseater in the press to re-shape it for the size wheel I'm likely to be working with.




Ready to go when I find some suitable lube. I might also make a longer bar to give extra leverage, but I'll try the existing when I get a chance to bolt it to a concrete floor rather than have it sitting on the grass.




Next will be ideas on making a balancing device, but all in good time.

Bill

chris846 wrote:I use one of these, around 200 English pounds which seems pricey, but it does get a fair amount of use.

GBP200 is about $AU350. This one was $AU225, so I'm happy. I have 3 or 4 tyres that need sealing work, and might get angled valve stems while I'm at it. There will be more as other bikes in the stable potentially come on line. (If I ever get the time between current activities, especially now that the French family are out of quarantine and with us while they look for a house to buy.)

When I get it properly floor mounted, any of the Krew in range will be welcome to visit and use it. (You get to define 'in range'.)

Bill

My home made four bearing balancer. It mounts on to two saw horses the seals have been removed and the grease cleaned out of the bearings to reduce friction. Before using I give it a spray with PTFE lubricant. The Mk1 version was made to run on blades but was a bit finicky to use.
Regards Martin.

I'll definitely get building on a replica, as long as the licence fees aren't too expensive, when a few other jobs get sorted.

Thanks.  

Bill