I'm replacing my clutch and would like your views on which to use.
My options seem to be
EBC
Lucas/TRW
Sachs

Cost seem to be about EBC about £55 delivered
Lucas/TRW about £60
Sachs about £70

Or should I replace the whole thing, whilst I'm in there, ... Diaphragm spring, friction/ pressure/cover plates, bolts & washers etc. which I can pick up for £222 for the full kit.

Your input would be great.

Before you do go on a spending spree take the clutch out. When you are removing the 6 socket head screws clean inside the hex and make sure the key is in all the way and they should come without rounding the hex but you may have to drill the heads of some. Get new bolts.
Check the steel plates for flat by putting a straight edge across them, they have a tendency to dish and there is nothing you can do except buy new ones. As for thr diaphram spring yes get a new one and plate I would have no hesitation to get an EBC or sachs. Sachs is OEM or same as.
When you reassemble put a smear of moly , same as for the splines on the wire ring and back of the pressure plate where it rides on the spring otherwise it rattles.
Probably pay to replace the rear main seal while you are in there as it probably the same age as the bike. you and me were in our prime at that age but seals usually have a working life of 10 years and any more is bonus.

Thanks Rick
The dismantling I did yesterday, all pretty strait forward.
It looks like the plate/s are dished by the strange wear on the friction plate.
The clutch just started to rattle which would quieten down when the engine was revved a bit, also noise would change when clutch activated.
Investigation (start from the back, take things off bike, see if rattle stops) indicated clutch. removed clutch, start engine, no rattle.
So that narrowed it down to the four parts of the clutch.
So could only be coming from spring or friction plate.

A couple of vids showing the clutch rattle and the friction plate.
You might be able to see on the friction plate that all the wear is on the outer edge.
I don't think that is should be like this

I put a new plate in my K1100 and like a mug didn't check the steels and it was only getting about 3/16 on the outer edge. I also put a new rear main seal in a K75 about a year ago and the plate had worn to fit the dish so I left it be and it is still going well. I gave them a guarantee that if it played up within 12 months I would relpace for the cost of parts alone and it hasnt returned for a clutch just a service.

My '91 K100RS 16V sounds just like your first video : rattles like a bag of nails at tick-over (1000rpm) then more or less clears up as the revs go over 2000. Alternator off but gearbox still fittted.

Did you find the source of the rattle?

How did you fasten the starter motor to fire it up without the gearbox?

stanthomas wrote:Did you find the source of the rattle?
How did you fasten the starter motor to fire it up without the gearbox?

This thread is seven years old. You probably should message the member who started the thread to learn his outcome with the engine noise

The starter is mounted into the intermediate housing above the gearbox. Gearbox mounts at red arrows; alternator mounts at orange arrow; starter mounts at green arrow.

I kinda hoped the OP might see a notiification from this site but I'll PM him as well. Thanks.

The starter pushes into the back of the engine but is bolted to the top of the gearbox. The video shows him holding something in that area with a wrench; just wondered if he'd devised some sort of temporary support or just held onto the starter with a vice-grip and, perhaps more importantly, whether he wished he hadn't done it .

stanthomas wrote: just wondered if he'd devised some sort of temporary support or just held onto the starter with a vice-grip . . . .

It seems he did devise a support and whatever he devised worked for him. No doubt you can devise something, too if you want to replicate his test.