I have been asked on a few occasions lately to do a drawing of the brace I made to prevent the lower stud on the rear shock snapping when subjected to Aussie roads.
Apparently in some countries round the world this is unheard of but I have seen this 4 times now and one of them was on my bike and it is not an experience I wish to repeat when the rear wheel locks up and the suspension collapses.

Thanks for that, Rick!  

Here's what it looks like from the top. The bottom edge, as Rick says, is angled to accommodate the final drive's falling away taper.

Rick retrieved me, Pamela and busted rear shockie stud K100RS - Monolever - from the roadside near Stanthorpe Queensland several years back. Since then I've fitted Sidecar Paul's piece to my RS and Rick's novel piece to Big Block - Paralever.

Here's what the Monolever looked like by the side of the road with traffic flying past and us in the relative safety of the first available gutter.

Rick, after trailering us back to his remote station in the beautiful and rugged Granite Belt near the Qld/NSW border, got to work extracting the busted stud and cleaned out the threads - no real damage, thankfully - then screwed in a longer stud he'd made previously, in preparation for the triangular piece which was fitted next trip back Down Under.

What is the grade, if any, of the OEM stud?  Judging from the price it's not made from anything exotic.  Would it be an improvement to just go to grade 8.8 or 10.9 stud?

McMaster Carr has grade 10.9 threaded rod for a price that would allow me to make 3 studs for about $5 each.

If you have the option you would be better making a genuinue stud i.e. with a non-threaded portion that's the same length as the shock eye. The problem with threaded rod is that there one pressure point per thread to start damaging the rod eye (I was going to say 'screw things up' but...) and the area taking the shear load is rod diameter minus thread depth i.e. something like 8.25mm on a 10mm threaded rod.


[Edit] can't spell shear...

I wondered about a harder screw being used but thought while it might be strong enough to take a harsher hit or heavier load, another more important weakness is the aluminium case of the final drive. The studs often snap off clean but they also can take a chunk out of the case below the surface, rendering an easy fix impossible by the side of the road, or even in the average garage with hand tools.

brickrider2 wrote:Thanks for that, Rick!  

+1.

10.9 or 10.10 is far too hard and will snap in short order 8.8 is the correct grade for that type of stud with the lateral force exerted on it.
Like TWB said they can and do break inside the housing, the K75RT my wife has did exactly that about 12 years ago and left us stranded on the roadside for 3 days while I got a replacement drive sent from home.

RicK G wrote:I have been asked on a few occasions lately to do a drawing of the brace I made to prevent the lower stud on the rear shock snapping when subjected to Aussie roads.
Apparently in some countries round the world this is unheard of but I have seen this 4 times now and one of them was on my bike and it is not an experience I wish to repeat when the rear wheel locks up and the suspension collapses.

Rick, an added detail of dimension measurements between the hole edges, the left edge, the right edge, the top edge and the bottom edge on the vertical piece, as well as the dimension of the horizontal pieces, would be useful for a machinist / fabricator. Would adding these be possible?

For $5 I guess a new stud could be an annual maintenance item.  Make it part of the spline lube.

If you are going to get someone to make and fit one then the diameter of the hole in from the edge is the acceptable engineering standard (12mm hole is 12mm in from the edge) but with the thickness of the material being 8mm then 10mm would be acceptable as the only force is downwards and as for the lower edge, well that will depend on the width of the lower shock eye which governs how far in towards the drive housing the plate goes so that is left to the maker. You will need to take the shock, drive and drawing to them.

Regarding snapping fastening bolts / threaded rod, mention was earlier made of two high tensile standards: 8.8 and 10.9. There is a higher tensile strength available, 12.9. Re a Husqvarna TE610 ie I had, there were reports of the 8.8 mounting bolts for foot pegs snapping and the fix was to fit 12.9 bolts which solved the problem.

Horses for courses and 8.8 is the best to use a 12.9 will snap like a carrot. I would use a mild steel bolt there in preference to a 12.9.
A 12.9 would be right at home used for a cylinder head bolt where there is no lateral load and in that regard it is very strong but if you try to bend it then the carrot would bend more without breaking but an 8.8 will if used for a cylinder head bolt just keep stretching until it pulled in half before getting to the correct tension.

I'm unable to fabricate the brace to support the rear shock's stud, so I decided to simply buy another.  I consulted a parts fiche but could not find this illustrated.  Does anyone know the part number for this stud? I presume the same stud is used for all models/years of K-bikes.

07 12 9 908 096 12x60 K75/K100
33 11 2 310 063 12x70 K1100

It's shown with the final drive in bits. I dunno the thread pitch if you're just getting threaded rod.

Two Wheels Better wrote:It's shown with the final drive in bits. I dunno the thread pitch if you're just getting threaded rod.

Personally, I would avoid threaded rod.  My experience is that it probably isn't as strong as the OEM stud that is used.  For the price, $4.71,  I'm getting three of them for my bikes and will be replacing them this Fall as part of their annual maintenance.

If placing your order with a BMW dealership for a rear shockie stud, there are none currently in the US warehouses. However, there are 442 of the 12x60 and 162 of the 12x70 in Dingolfing Germany. How do I know? I'm back at a Beemer shop for a quick 60 day stint during these pandemic times. The eternal struggle for a crust.

No threaded rod for me.  I fear that wouldn't be an improvement.  Thanks for the reference numbers.  I'm going OEM here.

Update: I went there. "There" told me the stud is unavailable in the USofA and no date for it to reappear is offered. Plan B: I'll try Tacoma Fasteners, which has a great selection here locally.

brickrider2 wrote:No threaded rod for me.  I fear that wouldn't be an improvement.  Thanks for the reference numbers.  I'm going OEM here.

Update: I went there. "There" told me the stud is unavailable in the USofA and no date for it to reappear is offered. Plan B: I'll try Tacoma Fasteners, which has a great selection here locally.

Your local Beemer shop? The studs are not NLA (No Longer Available) or discontinued part numbers. The bastages didn't take the time to look at Germany's inventory for you on DCSNet? It takes two minutes and takes less than two weeks to obtain if in stock at BMW in Dingolfing, Germany.

Two Wheels Better wrote:If placing your order with a BMW dealership for a rear shockie stud, there are none currently in the US warehouses. However, there are 442 of the 12x60 and 162 of the 12x70 in Dingolfing Germany. How do I know? I'm back at a Beemer shop for a quick 60 day stint during these pandemic times. The eternal struggle for a crust.

good to hear your keeping your hand in dazza , stay safe mate , i worry terribly about the virus outcomes and transmission over your way .

Last week I ordered 3 studs from MaxBMW.  Delivery is a estimated to be 2 weeks from Germany. 

Free shipping, no sales tax, and a bag of M&M's.

Point-Seven-five wrote:Last week I ordered 3 studs from MaxBMW.  Delivery is a estimated to be 2 weeks from Germany. 

Free shipping, no sales tax, and a bag of M&M's.

And that's part of the reason places like Max's stays in business - they do what they say they'll do and go the extra bit for their customers. Plain or Peanut? I have a favourite.

charlie99 wrote:

Two Wheels Better wrote:If placing your order with a BMW dealership for a rear shockie stud, there are none currently in the US warehouses. However, there are 442 of the 12x60 and 162 of the 12x70 in Dingolfing Germany. How do I know? I'm back at a Beemer shop for a quick 60 day stint during these pandemic times. The eternal struggle for a crust.

good to hear you're keeping your hand in dazza , stay safe mate , i worry terribly about the virus outcomes and transmission over your way .

Thanks, Chaz. I need the work, the same as a lot of folks, and I do get concerned about virus spread. This place, like many, has protocols in place, such as space limiting, required facemasks (or they'll give one to you), separate stations for employees, bottles of sanitiser & latex gloves about the building, plus a weekly Covid update meeting for all staff, mandate twice daily cleanings of contact surfaces, and Perspex panels between the animals and the animals at the zoo. If you insist on entering without a mask then the staff are urged by management to ignore you except to suggest you exit the building where they'll then do business with you. Some try.

It's 15 minutes from home, they're all motoheads, the Ducatis are red and pretty, and I'm keeping up with what's new from Das Vaterland. 

I can't speak much to the elevated numbers here in the US other than to say it is well out of hand but very many folk appear to be taking it as it comes and seem less concerned than others about it - suggesting the numbers. I personally refuse to take an obviously scientific thing as anything other than mathematical and scientific.

The massive in all ways R18 should be trundling in by early September. That's exciting in an I love Teutonic-origin mechanical things way.

Plain.  Hey, they're free.

Spoke on the phone with Russell who is the MaxBMW internet parts sales guy.  He tells me that BMW appears to be supplying fewer parts for classic K bikes and allowing reproduction part manufacturers to pick up the slack. 

The rear brake line for my K100RS 16V ABS was the reason for our conversation.  Turns out that BMW has it on backorder with no ETA, and he doesn't think it will be available any time soon.  Since no one in the U.S. has Spiegler lines for just the rear(I did the front lines when I got the bike) I had to order a set of Goodridge lies from the U.K.  Looks like that bike is going to be down until late September.  Crap!

By way of follow up on the buying of the stud for the rear suspension unit, I'll admit have lost confidence in the local BMW motorcycle dealer.  For many years we enjoyed what must have been one of the best dealers in the country, then he retired.  A major local car dealer bought the biz and incorporated BMW motorcycles in it's power sports operation. Its not a large facility, now its enormous, selling everything you can imagine.  The upshot is a bunch of employees that may well know RVs or jet skis but not BMW motorcycles.  
When I was told I couldn't order the stud there, I turned to another supplier and bought a couple for less than $6 USD.  At that time I asked the salesman about grade 8.8 and things got very confusing from then on.  He said there were no stamped grades on studs (but, one of those I bought is stamped with a "G") he further said that they are actually grade 5.    I subsequently did some research online, with the result that I'm as confused as ever as to the grading of automotive studs.  
Maybe an order from a competent BMW is the prudent course here. 

Gryph surely there is a local brake/hydraulic place that can crimp you up a line. We now have at least four who can do the job within a few K's. We had three but I went past another brake shop that advertises doing lines.
Regards Martin.

Are you guys in the USofA not allowed to make your own brake lines? What about Oz? I haven't bought a made-up brake line for decades. I buy the -3 (dash 3) fittings as I need them and have around 30m of Earls brake hose hanging up in the garage. I still haven't quite decided what I'm going to do with the 10m of blue hose, nor do I recall why the hell I bought it in the first place. Probably because it was cheap (shut up ).

Where I am there is only one place that will make custom brake lines.  There are lots of places that make hydraulic hoses, but they don't have the parts to do brake lines.  I've been told that nobody wants to make custom lines because of the liability issues that go along with that service.  It's part of the problem of living in a litigious society with a personal injury lawyer behind every tree looking for a big payday.

I had braided lines made for the rear of my K75RT by the one shop that does them, mostly for trucks, but the lines they made were clumsy with the banjo's attached to swaged threaded fittings.  It was a bitch getting them so they wouldn't rub when the swing arm moved.  For the short lines needed on a bike they weren't exactly what I was looking for even though I was able to make them work.

Dai wrote:Are you guys in the USofA not allowed to make your own brake lines? What about Oz? I haven't bought a made-up brake line for decades. I buy the -3 (dash 3) fittings as I need them and have around 30m of Earls brake hose hanging up in the garage. I still haven't quite decided what I'm going to do with the 10m of blue hose, nor do I recall why the hell I bought it in the first place. Probably because it was cheap (shut up ).

In the US, go to your favourite motorbike shop and ask to see their Tucker (aftermarket parts supplier, used to be known as Tucker-Rocky) catalogue. Have a squiz through the pages and you'll see a section of Goodridge-brand plastic-coated, metal brake hose of various lengths, and fittings of all types, sizes and angles. Order what you need and make your own quality brake line hoses. I do this for my machines. No need to pay Spiegler prices. Too easy.

brickrider2 wrote:By way of follow up on the buying of the stud for the rear suspension unit, I'll admit have lost confidence in the local BMW motorcycle dealer.  For many years we enjoyed what must have been one of the best dealers in the country, then he retired.  A major local car dealer bought the biz and incorporated BMW motorcycles in it's power sports operation. Its not a large facility, now its enormous, selling everything you can imagine.  The upshot is a bunch of employees that may well know RVs or jet skis but not BMW motorcycles.  
When I was told I couldn't order the stud there, I turned to another supplier and bought a couple for less than $6 USD.  At that time I asked the salesman about grade 8.8 and things got very confusing from then on.  He said there were no stamped grades on studs (but, one of those I bought is stamped with a "G") he further said that they are actually grade 5.    I subsequently did some research online, with the result that I'm as confused as ever as to the grading of automotive studs.  
Maybe an order from a competent BMW is the prudent course here. 

Send me a PM on the forum (within North America only, please) and tell me whether you require a stock replacement stud length of 60mm for a K75/K100 Monolever or the stock 70mm length for a Paralever. If you're using a stud support on a Monolever and need additional length, then you'll have to determine whether the 70mm length will work for you. I can get the OEM stud ordered and post it upon its arrival - two weeks minimum from Germany. Paypal is acceptable.

It seems the 12x70mm is also listed for some K75 & K100 Monolever. It's not exclusive to the Paralever models. I am going to order in one 12x60mm for a look & several 12x70mm, the length of which is only listed for K1100 & other Paralever, for stock. It can't hurt to have a spare 10mm sticking out beyond the nut & washer of some models.

In the meantime, if anyone in the US who wishes to ring these dealers. They all show some stock available of the 12x60, part number 07 12 9 908 096. Be sure that's the length you require.

Irv Seaver in Cali, 714-532-3900 (shows 2)
Sportland in Illinois, 217-328-5005 (shows 1)
Bloodworth's in Tennessee, 615-321-3311 (shows 3)
Morton's in Virgina, 540-891-9844 (shows 2)

No one shows the 12x70, 33 11 2 310 063, that has to come from Germany.

Let's hope they update their in stock Lightspeed inventory regularly.

Two Wheels Better wrote:

Let's hope they update their in stock Lightspeed inventory regularly.

???

Point-Seven-five wrote:

Two Wheels Better wrote:

Let's hope they update their in stock Lightspeed inventory regularly.

???

That only means that the reason I can check another motorcycle dealer's inventory is that the standard in the USA for in-house compooter DMS (or Dealer Management System) is a company called Lightspeed, based in Utah. I am typing on it now. A bit of an insider reference is all.

So, we hope they update their numbers with the system regularly. I doubt they're a fast selling item, however.

Arrived! Three 12x70mm & one 12x60mm. Ordered on the 22nd of August, landed in Tacoma on the 10th of September from Germany. Who else needs one besides Brickrider?

Three of them with a bag of M&M's showed up in my mail over the weekend.  All set for end of the season maintenance festivities.

Point-Seven-five wrote:Three of them with a bag of M&M's showed up in my mail over the weekend.  All set for end of the season maintenance festivities.

Well, well, some are luckier than others. All I got with my delivery was a paper cut. I do like the blue M&Ms, with peanuts, though.

In the interest of keeping it fresh, I have one 12x60mm (some K75, K100) stud left and two 12x70mm (Paralever, K1, K100, K1100) rear shock lower studs left if anyone is in need.

Two Wheels Better wrote:In the interest of keeping it fresh, I have one 12x60mm (some K75, K100) stud left and two 12x70mm (Paralever, K1, K100, K1100) rear shock lower studs left if anyone is in need.

Hi

I would like to be considered.
I have a 1984 k100.
Thanks.
Have a great day. It,s Friday..yay


Gabs

gabriel wrote:

Two Wheels Better wrote:In the interest of keeping it fresh, I have one 12x60mm (some K75, K100) stud left and two 12x70mm (Paralever, K1, K100, K1100) rear shock lower studs left if anyone is in need.

Hi
I would like to be considered.
I have a 1984 k100.
Thanks.
Have a great day. It,s Friday..yay
Gabs

It's an undetermined amount of time until I'm back in OZ visiting mum and rellies in Victoria. Will likely have to wait til the wars are over. 

Two Wheels Better wrote:In the interest of keeping it fresh, I have one 12x60mm (some K75, K100) stud left and two 12x70mm (Paralever, K1, K100, K1100) rear shock lower studs left if anyone is in need.

I'm interested in one Paralever stud.

DadofHedgehog wrote:

Two Wheels Better wrote:In the interest of keeping it fresh, I have one 12x60mm (some K75, K100) stud left and two 12x70mm (Paralever, K1, K100, K1100) rear shock lower studs left if anyone is in need.

I'm interested in one Paralever stud.

This is the standard 70mm length. Send a PM with your address.

There is one 12x60mm and one 12x70mm stud left. Two have gone out to two in need. Anyone else in need? PM me.
This should by now be filed under the forum's Buy & Sell but that's not the case.
 

Dai wrote:Are you guys in the USofA not allowed to make your own brake lines? What about Oz? I haven't bought a made-up brake line for decades. I buy the -3 (dash 3) fittings as I need them and have around 30m of Earls brake hose hanging up in the garage. I still haven't quite decided what I'm going to do with the 10m of blue hose, nor do I recall why the hell I bought it in the first place. Probably because it was cheap (shut up ).

+1. With the encouragement and support of Dai and Chris I made new lines all round for the first time ever. Really pleased with the outcome and cost (with leading links the fronts would have to be specialist made).

tinyspuds wrote:

Dai wrote:Are you guys in the USofA not allowed to make your own brake lines? What about Oz? I haven't bought a made-up brake line for decades. I buy the -3 (dash 3) fittings as I need them and have around 30m of Earls brake hose hanging up in the garage. I still haven't quite decided what I'm going to do with the 10m of blue hose, nor do I recall why the hell I bought it in the first place. Probably because it was cheap (shut up ).

+1. With the encouragement and support of Dai and Chris I made new lines all round for the first time ever. Really pleased with the outcome and cost (with leading links the fronts would have to be specialist made).

TinySpuds,

Every single time I see Your avatar photo, I think "Hey that sidecar is on the wrong side" haha

Dai wrote:Are you guys in the USofA not allowed to make your own brake lines? What about Oz? I haven't bought a made-up brake line for decades. I buy the -3 (dash 3) fittings as I need them and have around 30m of Earls brake hose hanging up in the garage. I still haven't quite decided what I'm going to do with the 10m of blue hose, nor do I recall why the hell I bought it in the first place. Probably because it was cheap (shut up ).

I don't know if we're allowed or not, but in any event they don't make it easy to get the parts to do a tidy job.

Point-Seven-five wrote:

Dai wrote:Are you guys in the USofA not allowed to make your own brake lines? What about Oz? I haven't bought a made-up brake line for decades. I buy the -3 (dash 3) fittings as I need them and have around 30m of Earls brake hose hanging up in the garage. I still haven't quite decided what I'm going to do with the 10m of blue hose, nor do I recall why the hell I bought it in the first place. Probably because it was cheap (shut up ).

I don't know if we're allowed or not, but in any event they don't make it easy to get the parts to do a tidy job.

See post # 30 in this thread for a relatively easy way in the US to roll yer own.

Here's the link to the Tucker 2020 street catalogue (Likely USA only, and they'll spell it the trimmed up & tidy version...catalog )

THIS link will take you straight to page 537 where you can view Goodridge-brand custom brake hoses & fittings. Expand it for a clearer view. Nearly all US motorbike parts & accessory dealers are able to buy from Tucker, an aftermarket supplier that does not sell directly to the end user, only to dealers. Suss out what your needs are, brake hose-wise, then go to your favourite shop and order away. They (Tucker) have half a dozen warehouses across Los Estados Unidos so as long as a part number isn't on factory backorder you should have it within several days. They're not expensive, relatively, and are of good quality.

Two Wheels Better wrote:

gabriel wrote:

Two Wheels Better wrote:In the interest of keeping it fresh, I have one 12x60mm (some K75, K100) stud left and two 12x70mm (Paralever, K1, K100, K1100) rear shock lower studs left if anyone is in need.

Hi
I would like to be considered.
I have a 1984 k100.
Thanks.
Have a great day. It,s Friday..yay
Gabs

It's an undetermined amount of time until I'm back in OZ visiting mum and rellies in Victoria. Will likely have to wait til the wars are over. 

Gabriel. I have just this week ordered and received a 12x70mm stud from BMW Australia thru Brisans in Newcastle. After they said there were none listed on the system and it would be back-ordered, it arrived inside a week and cost AU$6.50


I've hit a couple of bad holes lately on my travels so after reading this thread a few weeks back I thought I'd repalce mine.
Shouldn't be a huge problem but any tricks to getting the old one out. My guess is that it's been in there for 25 years and could be corroded.

Two nuts locked together on the stud, put your spanner on the inner nut and unscrew. You might want to hit the stud with a torch to heat it up in case they used that damn red Loctite on it. If corrosion has been an issue on other fasteners you might also want to keep it wet with penetrating oil for a few days prior to removal.