K100 4 valve or K1100 chrome muffler cover, Does it come off?
It looks to me if you drill out a couple of rivets it would come off?

I ask because I am looking at replace my cracked exhaust which has good chrome on the muffler and I am wondering if I could put it on one that the chrome is not so good?

Has anyone done this successfully? If so any tips?

Thanks

Its a one piece, headers and muffler are all the one. Swap the whole thing but get new rubber mounts. They all crack where the headers meet the muffler. The heat shield part doesn't come off.

I got one of these and a very good solution admittedly for a lot less money....simple swap. They come for K100 4v and K1100, its the same but the mount brackets that come with them are different. They bolt on to your existing hanger.

https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Remus-Innovation-Stainless-Full-Exhaust-System-BMW-K1100LT-16V-4V-K1100-LT-1989-/371188755141

There is a cure for the cracking, you need to fit a hose clip around the header pipes. The hose clip changes the resonance frequency and stops the cracking.
Regards Martin.

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:Its a one piece, headers and muffler are all the one. Swap the whole thing but get new rubber mounts. They all crack where the headers meet the muffler. The heat shield part doesn't come off.

I got one of these and a very good solution admittedly for a lot less money....simple swap. They come for K100 4v and K1100, its the same but the mount brackets that come with them are different. They bolt on to your existing hanger.

https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Remus-Innovation-Stainless-Full-Exhaust-System-BMW-K1100LT-16V-4V-K1100-LT-1989-/371188755141

There's also Staintune exhausts for the 4V Ks. About the same volume as the stock exhaust. It's two pieces and lighter than stock.

The Remus comes in two versions - one is a bit louder than stock and the other is a lot louder than stock. (I have the quieter version on my K1100RS and like it.)

Ok thanks for the replies guys but I think I need to re-word the question.
You know the chrome cover on the silencer portion of the exhaust system?
In the photo you can see on the left side one of the rivets that would appear to be holding the chrome shroud in place. even at the outlet end it looks like the chromed part might be removable?
Has anyone tried drilling out these rivets and taking it apart?
Thanks

Since it sounds like your exhaust is gone already, why not grab your drill and let us know how you make out.

It goes like this. I have very little money to spend on this bike.

Scenario one
I re-weld my existing exhaust and hope for the best.

Scenario two
If I can buy a none cracked exhaust with bad chrome for cheap and exchange my chrome bit to make a descent exhaust.

I don't want to bugger up the exhaust I have as I may need it. This is why I have asked if anyone has given this a go?

Guess I need to have a better look and see what the rivet might be into? If my Argon bottle wasn't empty I would try just welding the existing one for sure.

Why not get a 2V K100 exhaust?  Not too expensive and with an afternoon of fiddling can be made to work pretty well.  I put one on my '92 K100RS after I removed the loud Remus exhaust it came with.  It worked great.

Point-Seven-five wrote:Why not get a 2V K100 exhaust?  Not too expensive and with an afternoon of fiddling can be made to work pretty well.  I put one on my '92 K100RS after I removed the loud Remus exhaust it came with.  It worked great.

They are a alternative but a descent one around here is not inexpensive, in my view at least. I think they are becoming a little less available and more expensive, plus they are getting on in age. The k1100 exhausts seem to run 10 to 15 years newer.

Don't suppose you still have the front half of the Remus? You can always stick a quieter can on it,

Like most bike problem I guess the solution is to rub money on it.

Thing is the 2v exhaust is also stainless steel but does not crack because its not in one piece.

If budget is tight its the easiest solution for you. Used 16v exhausts are much more expensive.

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:Thing is the 2v exhaust is also stainless steel but does not crack because its not in one piece.

If budget is tight its the easiest solution for you. Used 16v exhausts are much more expensive.

It is funny you should say that as some of the 16v exhausts that look like the best bang for the buck are from the UK. And for what you get I think are a better deal then the 8V exhausts.

Pretty well all the 8V ones I see are pretty beat. Guess I had better look again.

Or there is always this.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/32mm-1-25-Stainless-Tubular-3-or-4-into-1-Exhaust-Manifold-Collector-Down-Pipe/272988935477?hash=item3f8f689535mlKlnRYsLYlb43nI_Ps5Eng&vxp=mtr

Then add what ever can you like.

When I got my K1100 at 58,000 miles the headers had cracked. You can weld them but it was hassle for me and also they were still not going to last. At the time a used one from UK as going to cost me around £200 plus shipping plus new rubber mounts. So on eBay one day I found a brand new Remus complete for €400 and promptly bought it. Very happy with it, no changes to fueling etc. Then I discovered getting rear wheel off was a pain until I realised two bolts and the muffler comes away and the wheel just pops off. worth it for that alone because I sometimes use the RS wheel with the wider tyre. Remus sounds good too.

Surely someone closer to home has a spare exhaust they can post.

I've got two in the garage ... on the other side of the planet (give or take a few thousands kms)

GF Wollongong wrote:Surely someone closer to home has a spare exhaust they can post.

I've got two in the garage ... on the other side of the planet (give or take a few thousands kms)

I will find something suitable eventually and until then I will get to see what is left of my tig welding skills.

Really temped to braze the joints. 50% silver sort of thing. The joints would be more flexible but I think limited to about 400C. Checking on car header temps they run as high as 450C so marginal at best.
Definitely easier to flow and no worries about Tungsten Oxide in the joint which I believe is why most of the re-weld jobs fail.

Sorry just thinking out loud.

92KK 84WW Olaf wrote:Thing is the 2v exhaust is also stainless steel but does not crack because its not in one piece.

If budget is tight its the easiest solution for you. Used 16v exhausts are much more expensive.

I need the 2V headers as well, right? Seemed remember hearing if you cut off the 4V headers they are too short?
There is a good price on just the 2V silencer is why I ask.

in case anyone else has a silly idea about taking the shinny bit off the exhaust system to install it on another it is attached at the out let and you would need to carefully cut it with a rotatory tool or what have you. Then of course you would need to re-rivet and re-weld.
Let for future reference only.