OK, so I dropped the K100 RS in a carpark today, second time in 2 weeks!! Now, I'm not an old man but for reasons I won't go in to, I have less strength recently (and it's not coming back), but I starting to worry whether the K100 is too heavy for me? Not being ready to give up the K life yet I was wondering how the K75 matches up with the K100 weight wise? There's never an issue when moving

Also, not sure if I'm ready for a trike yet either, but, I have seen some nice K trikes out there (and some pretty bad ones!!)

Cheers All

Dave

The BMW specs have a K75S at 504 lbs wet (229 kg) and the K100RS at 548 lbs (249 kg).  Some of that is due to the "missing" cylinder but some is also due to the K75S fairing weighing less so it's a bit less topheavy than a K100RS.

Not sure what kind of weather you ride in but the K75S doesn't provide near as much leg protection from the elements as a K100RS does. But the upside of that is that the K75S won't bake your thighs as much in warmer weather.

At 100 KPH I stay pretty dry on my 75s but for some weird reason the bottom portion of my right leg gets significantly wetter than my left leg.  
Regards Martin.

Yeah, even on my K75RT my right leg also got wetter then my left when riding in wet weather.

And if you ride a K75S down near freezing temps your legs will certainly be colder on the K75S.

Bars are an issue on the K100RS.

I don't have a K75 but did at one point come close to buying a K75 Ultima which did feel lighter than the K100RT I was using.

How about change the bars on the RS to C bars? Might help. You could go to extreme and fit RT/LT bars. If the K100RS is post 86 give a thought to fitting a K1100LT seat, it may also help you.

I have looked at a lot of other bikes for comparison. Everyone says the Ks are heavy but reality is they are not. My son was mocking the weight of my K100RT and he was disgusted when I eventually told him that my K100RT was 253kg and his VFR800 was 249kg. Having ridden it I found it no different from a K in terms of feeling the weight. One bike I do love is the Royal Enfield Himalayan and yes its much lighter than a K bike.

Davep,
I do not have a rs but did ride one for a bit (swapped bikes my 75s for his 100rs 4v with another rider). The rs walking around the parking lot felt very close to the rt< that I have but out on the mountain road it felt more like my 75 with more zip. So if you if you don't mind giving up some "zip" the 75 maybe the ticket for you. I suggest you barrow or test drive one (for sale) if you get the chance.
FWIW,I'm 57, 5' 11", and average strength. I have a rt, lt, 250 rebel, and a HD ultra and the 75s gets 75% of annual use which is 90% Touring.

caveman wrote:So if you if you don't mind giving up some "zip" the 75 maybe the ticket for you.

K bikes are pretty much bulletproof at high RPMs.  The key to having fun on a K75 is running it up at 4,500-7,000 RPM where the decent torque is.

Duck not much of a problem with freezing legs in Queensland. I regularly ride with a pack of K100's RS's and an LT, and in the real world I  have no problem staying with them. And I do believe the 75's handle a bit better. As Duck said you need to rev them, and they love it. However fuel consumption between the 75 and the 100 when pushing it is pretty well on par. It's only improves between them when cruising.
Regards Martin.

Your original post doesn't mention if your tip overs are at a stop or when doing slow speed parking lot turns etc.  The RS does have shorter handlebars than say a RT, that will affect your balance when doing slow speed stuff.  One trick is just before you come to a complete stop, turn the front wheel slightly to the right. That forces the bike to lean to the left onto your left foot.

They make a shock that is an inch shorter for the K75 & K100.  If you are inseam challenged that will help the cause.

Slow speed riding is a learnable skill and it just takes practise in managing your clutch friction point.  Find an empty parking lot and practise, slow speed turns, figure 8's, slow straight line riding - going as slow as you can go in a straight line.  Seeing as the K bikes have a dry clutch, do this riding in short stages, say 5 minutes and then go for a ride.  The clutch can get really hot when you are continually using the friction point.

A couple of options I would consider are a low seat or wider bars.   

If you go low seat then easier to get your feet out in time for balance, etc.  75 and 100 low seats I believe are interchangeable.  Just means that old knees may not like being more bent than straight.  

If fitting RT bars then I believe the bars will contact the fairing on full lock.  Longer cables are required.  

As the RS and 75S bars are the same, the 75T or C bars may work but C bars are getting hard to come across.  

As for slow speed work, I was taught not to slip the clutch but too use more revs and use the back brake to control the steering whilst leaning into the corner.  Requires balance and practice and very good for quick u-turns.  

Hope this helps.

What about a K75 with lowered seat?

TacKler wrote:A couple of options I would consider are a low seat or wider bars.   

If you go low seat then easier to get your feet out in time for balance, etc.  75 and 100 low seats I believe are interchangeable.  Just means that old knees may not like being more bent than straight.  

If fitting RT bars then I believe the bars will contact the fairing on full lock.  Longer cables are required.  

As the RS and 75S bars are the same, the 75T or C bars may work but C bars are getting hard to come across.  

As for slow speed work, I was taught not to slip the clutch but too use more revs and use the back brake to control the steering whilst leaning into the corner.  Requires balance and practice and very good for quick u-turns.  

Hope this helps.

From my MSF instructor days, slow speed work is done with the friction point of the clutch and the rear brake alone.  You never want to touch the front brake. If you do you'll go down.

If for no other reasons than they're smoother and have a three cylinder growl, I'd own a K75 again. I spotted one once with 38mm K12 throttle bodies and a less restrictive exhaust canister. The owner stated it produced above 90 hp, similar to an 8V K100 (I dunno if he'd actually dyno'd it). It sounded wonderful and they're a nimble machine. I imagine fiddling one together someday with Paralever FD, Marzocchi forks, three spoke wheels (160 rear) and 305mm front discs. Wait a mo' - didn't Duck already do that!?

My K75F (Frankenbrick) has a 32:11 paralever and K1100 forks/brakes but I went with the skinnier front and rear wheels mostly because they weight less and spin up easier.  It's probably easier to toss around in the turns than with K1100RS wheels.




The K75S I was riding when you came by earlier this year has K1 forks.

Thanks for all the responses, much appreciated,

Just for clarity, the bike was still both times I dropped it, no low speed turning. I have 'C' bars already fitted, which have made riding more pleasurable. Although both panniers were fitted as was the back box, there couldn't have bee more than 10kg spread evenly amongst them,

I'll keep you all up to date

Cheers All

Dave