Does anyone know of any aftermarket clutch (and matching brake lever) that the clutch cable lever nipple will fit WITHOUT having to drill/shave the lever to make it fit?

gorio wrote:I would love some modern levers as well but there seems to be none around fir these bikes.

Here is the link to a thread indicating one remodeler's use of Ducati Monster hand levers, front master cylinder and switch gear on his K75. Perhaps you should contact him for more information.

If the clutch nipple is the only real problem, get a bit of brass bar of the right diameter and make your own. I keep various diameters of brass just for odd jobs like that.

gorio wrote: I still find it odd that with the number of these bikes out there someone hasn't made an aftermarket adjustable lever.

There are aftermarket adjustables and there are both electronic and mechanical thumb-operated shifters of which this is just one example.

K1200's had a hydraulic clutch. Probably not the simplest solution but with a bit (lot) of McGyvering it would also be possible to go Mechanical/Hydraulic retaining the OEM lever and modifying the OEM cable to attach to a hydraulic master cylinder. 
Regards Martin.

gorio wrote:

Laitch wrote:There are aftermarket adjustables and there are both electronic and mechanical thumb-operated shifters of which this is just one example.

My foot still works for gear selection.

That's a blessing anyway. Clearly, I'm not the consultant for this modification because of my inability to differentiate hand problems from foot problems.

I will observe that Martin could be on the right track suggesting a hydraulic clutch adaptation or a motorcycle with such a clutch might be the most effective choice if improvement of your left hand's mobility is in doubt.

Gorio changing levers is not just a simple matter. There are all sorts of things to worked out like pivot points, lever lengths and ratios. If you change the clutch lever travel by moving the lever closer to the bar the amount of travel is reduced which will not allow proper activation of the clutch. So in order to get back the travel reduction you have to change the lever length at the other end. Without correctly calculating and changing the lever length at the both ends could end up with a harder pull. Brake lever travel distance can be less of an issue and travel can be reduced slightly. The easiest way to reduce the amount of effort and keep the movement required to properly activate the clutch would be to go hydraulic or hydraulic slash mechanical. Calculations for lever lengths to do this conversion are still required.
Regards Martin.

Flanders makes (or at least used to make) an aftermarket clutch lever but it's just an exact clone of the factory clutch lever.