I’m following up on the above thread, but my thinking isn’t yet ready for the ‘how to’ section.

I’ve started my upgrade, taken off the brake pedal, detached the old m/c but left everything piped in just to be sure I can get on the road for my Friday trip, and sawn off the new push rod.

The two methods of articulation explained previously are to either drill a detente into the end of the new push rod or; burr the end off the new push rod, and create a larger detente in the head of an 8mm bolt which replaces the existing adjustor bolt in the pedal.

Both of these methods are intended to replicate the articulation available in the OEM nipple and detente arrangement.

I am planning to take the first approach as I have neither lathe or drill press but in getting this far it occurs to me that rather than drill the detente why not just leave a push rod nut a couple of threads proud of the rod (maybe loctite in place) and let the nut ‘capture’ the nipple...


What have I missed?

You don't need a lathe or a drill press. An electric drill and a vice will do the job.
Regards Martin.

Thanks Martin, I know you’re right but I wanted to test out the theory so in the meantime I’ve just dry run it with a locking nut (there is room on the rod for two and still have full compression) and the top nut left 2 and a bit threads proud and it looks and feels like a very secure cage for the adjustor nipple. I’m going to leave the original gaiter off for now so I can watch it in action. Do you see any risks?
Cheers, Stu



You can just make out the nipple almost completely buried inside the nut and the nut is set just low enough that the flange around the nipple clears the nut at full articulation of the rod. I’m going to make up a s/s brake line and a mount for the new reservoir for a test at the weekend.

A jam nut could always be used as the locking nut if a little more thread length on the rod is desirable. Thanks for experimenting with this.

I am pretty sure your approach will work fine.  So far, I have done three bikes with the ChiCom M/C using the drilled detent, but the thought of using a second nut or backing off the single nut, holding it with Loctite has crossed my mind.

The reason I went with the detent was that I cut off the rod pretty close to where it exits the rubber boot, and was concerned that cupping the ball on the pedal with the nut would cause some binding.  The detent just looked to me like it would allow easier movement of the two parts relative to each other. 

Really, I can't see any problem with your approach.

+1 I can't see any problem with it. There is more than one way to skin a Roo.
Regards Martin.

Very true Martin. But at this end of the world stealing the roo would be almost as dangerous as my mechanical tinkering...