Hi

I was wondering if the K75C has any known issues , eg splines?
What should I look for when purchasing this model.
Thanks

Gabriel

I don't know of any specific to the K75 but as you have said the shaft which is the same as the K100. Mostly the parts are common to the K100,

The K75 should have a fluidblock damper in the steering head, that would need a re-lube to ensure smooth operation. I prefer the drum brake on the C (cockpit) model very good feel. I nearly put a 90x90x18 on the front to change the feel of the 120x90x18 on the rear. Ended up with a 130/90/17 K100 rear and that fixed the feel.

Don't worry about the fluid block, it's one of the first unecessary gadgets  developed by BMW on its production, before it became a rule today. Remove it if you have to change the pivot bearings, it won't change anything.
No particular weak points on K75, the torque is less important than on K100 so spline issues are not common.

Check under the waterpump to track oil or water spill, idem under the clutch carter, pay attention to the disc brakes thickness, check the good function of the clutch.
The fuel pump must not be noisy -except if the fuel level is very low.

 I drove many of them, repaired much more, even the worst frenetic cops could not break them, they needed to hit something concrete to kill them.
It's probably the more reliable bike BMW ever made.

A lot of problems that occur with Bricks come down to lack of maintenance. Bad electrical connections are the source of many problems and it is worth the effort to go over all the connections and clean them. DeoxIT two part will be your friend.The four pin connector that supplies power to the fuel pump is a known source of connectivity problems. Mine after twenty years started to play up and after cleaning a couple of times I replaced it with a waterproof connector. They also benefit from being ridden they don't like sitting. Problems with internal fuel hoses pumps and dampers are mainly caused by letting the bike sit with ethanol based fuel. If at all possible avoid ethanol fuel. All internal fuel lines should be rated EFI and submersible. Internal fuel hose clamps should be non worn drive if possible. Apparently worm drive clamps allow the greater possibility of ply separation. Proper drive shaft maintence is also essential. I've had mine 21 years and it would have to be the most reliable bike I've ever owned it has never failed to get me home.
Regards Martin.

Thank you for your replies.