Hey there

Been living in Sth Brisbane for 13 years now.  I have two '86 k100RS's.  One with 180k on the clock and a noisy output shaft and the other a Japanese Import with just under 12k.  The "young girl" is going through a refurb of all things wrong.  So far it has been fan motor brushes melted so replaced the fan motor, cracked ignition coils, plennum chamber to throttle body manifolds cracked, vacuum hose to pressure reg deteriorated, fuel hoses, filters, and liquids throughout.  Cleaned out the tank due to rotted suspension rubber and needed a replacement pump and pre filter, needed to clean injectors and fuel rail also.  Doing stainless fittings throughout as I go.

The user name?  Well I've built tesla coils both spark gap and solid state, I raced a speedway solo bike under #13 and obviously BMW motorcycles.

Cheers, Chris.

P.S.  In NZ I had a R80/7 and a k100.

WelKome from the Queensland Polar cap. There's plenty of help here if needed but sounds like you have a good start to Ks

Thanks RicKG.

Spent many years internet searching forums for issues when they've arrived.  Have both the Haynes and Climber Manuals, well two copies of each! One in the garage for dirty hands reference and one on the bed side table for bed time reading.

Welkom Chris,  

If you have a look at euromotoelectrics.com in the US you will find most of the electrical stuff you are after. Reasonable prices and they deliver in days not weeks.  

If you buy filters from then, they usually discount the price if two or more.  

Cheers, Dave.

Oh Great, not only is he a Cane-Toad, but a Kiwi as well. Now I can come with Kiwi and Cane-Toad Jokes
I would have thought that you would moved to Little New Zealand, I mean Bondi.

Welcome to the Knuthouse.

Welkom Chris, They are a friendly bunch in here, hope you enjoy it

welcome Chris ...from just a little west of you,  maybe 10 minutes

and Tackler  is not far off down the m1 towards the goldcoast  

have fun with the refurbishments
and like all new folks here  , we usually request a few pics  of your machines

try here

https://www.k100-forum.com/t998-posting-pictures-and-movies?highlight=pictures 

cheers

Hello mate

Just North of you but still south of the river

Thanks to all for the welcome.

Refurbs hit a speed bump!  Seems the poor starting is due to a leaking injector.  This bike has obviously sat a long time in Japan and then intermittent use in Australia.  '86 with 11k on it!

Question - is it better to put the cost of cleaning into a 4 hole upgrade new set?

Your injectors probably have a lot of varnish in them along with the rest of the fuel system.  I would start out by running a bottle of Techron Fuel system cleaner through the system.  Put it in, run the engine for a few minutes to circulate it and let it sit for a couple days before running it again.  It should get the engine rideable enough to use while further cleaning.  A couple tanks of fuel and you will know if you need to do more.  I have gone that route, and had the bike running great in about 500 miles.

Personally, I would avoid the four hole injectors.  There is no evidence they improve performance, and with four holes the individual holes will be 1/2 the diameter of the OEM injectors.  Being the realist I am, 1/2 the diameter means twice the chance of getting plugged.

She runs fine, although a slight hesitation on fast "blip" of the throttle.

Issue is she is reluctant to start from cold.  Needs to crank for a few seconds at which point it will fire and try and run then stop.  Crank again and it'll fire and run at very low RPM and then get up to idle with the choke on.

Plugs are looking black and wet - they are new.

As it is running when warm I will go about a fuel system cleaner.

I had the rail out and under pressure.  One injector had a slight weep so ran some throttle body cleaner through it and seems to have stopped the leak.

I have found that most K100s will need to crank for 2-3 seconds before they fire and don't touch the throttle but open the choke (which is only a fast idle) to the first position and if it does catch there let it idle for a while like till you put your gloves and helmet on then it should be OK to ride away.
Maybe that wont be the exact sequence that works for your bike but the Ks like a starting sequence.

Well that is certainly the behaviour of this bike.

Maybe my memory is poor that the more travelled one starts easier.  It is next into the shed for clean up and output shaft removal and repair or replacement.

The K100 I had some years ago would not start if you touched the throttle. I would not even put my hand on the grip in case it opened the throttle just push the button with my finger.

Once I put the fuel pump back in with having to replace the fuel pump damper I'll give it some running time with some cleaner and see how it goes with starting.

I had replaced the fuel pump damper a while ago with a used item.  In retrospect this was a mistake as it would appear it had no resilience to ethanol.  I only use 98 octane but understand this can still contain ethanol.

Munich has an ethanol proof damper at $180!  Motobins and Euromotoelectrics both have ethanol proof ones.

Oh the dilema - pay heaps and get it next day or pay substantially less and wait 10 days

One issue to be aware of in starting a K100 is that the fuel pump doesn’t run until the starter button is pressed. If the pressure has dropped since the last run, quite likely on our older machines, you are cranking for a bit with not enough fuel pressure. 
Solution is to give a brief touch on the starter button to activate the pump. After it stops in a second or 2 due to the engine not running, start button again but this time you have proper fuel pressure.

K1100s are different in that the fuel pump runs when ignition is switched on, so pressure is as required by the time the starter button is pressed.

Unlike Rick G’s example, my red ‘85 model needs a bit of throttle to start when cold, but when I have time to give it the bit of TLC it needs, I expect it will be back to normal.

Bill

Well that makes sense about the fuel pressure being low until the fuel pump has been activated for a little bit.

I will put a fuel pressure gauge in and see how long the pressure remains high for.

Tesla 

Are you on the Red k100 Rs in the cooper plains area  ? 
Southside brisbane

No. Not me Sir.

My less well travelled is Silver and the well travelled is Dark Green / Metallic fleck.

Hi and welcome. I am about 3 1/2 hours west of you. Great to see more "locals" on here

Welcome to the asylum from the north side.
Regards Martin.

Thanks for further welcomes.  Still a bit to go on the bike, but, took it out yesterday for a few k's close proximity to home.  Running well and seems repeated days starting with fuel system cleaner has helped.

Did find yesterday that changes from 2nd to 3rd where very hard and clunky as well as a leak in the rocker cover seal (small seal on the inner part of the cover).  Do have a set of seals, but, need to read up on the "goo" to put over the half moon sections before I replace them.

If your changes are clunky the input spline is probably dry and needs some lubrication, the clutch plate doesn't slide easily on the spline and binds with the pressure plate.

I thought this was the case and I guess at an '86 with just over 11k on it the splines are likely to be dry.

Will be reading up on spline lubes again   I wish all the Chris Harris videos on spline lubes were still on the net.

Other than the lube, when doing the splines are any other items routinely replaced?

Yes remove the clutch carrier and replace the big O-ring behind the centre nut and the rear main seal. Both will have seen better days.

Rick G - I'm guessing the o-ring because it has sat for so long and the rear main seal because I'm in there?

What if there is no sign of oil when I pull the transmission?  Replace it anyway because I'm in there?

So, if removing the clutch and doing the suggested I would need:

1. Rear main seal
2. O-ring
3. Compression ring
4. Clutch nut
5. Clutch bolts x 6
6. Clutch washers x 6
7. Clutch centring tool

Anything more or any that don't need to be replaced?

Bike has been sitting for a few years so that rear main seal will start to weep a bit then develop into a sizeable leak.
Clutch centering tool isn't all that necessary as it can be centered by eye.
To get the O-ring out you need to cut it into about 5-6 bits, I use a sharpened screwdriver and push it in to cut the ring then stab the bits and lift them out with a sharpened piece of high tensile wire like MIG wire. The clutch carrier wont pull off until that old o-ring is out.
If you want a Clymers manual just send me a PM and it can be arranged.