Hi guys I'm wanting to raise the bars maybe a couple of inches on my K100 RS 16v but not as much as an RT. I've been told that the bars on a K75 or K100 with out the fairing are a good compromise. Is this so or any other ideas? Cheers.

Std K bars are about 4" higher than RS bars. The electrical looms to the switch blocks normally reach with a bit of rerouting. The top brake line may have to be replaced in order to reach. Also the handlebar soft cover will have to be replaced with the std K one as the RS one will not fit the std bars ( unless you cut it).
The other option is to fit a pair of bar-backs, these move the bars back about an inch and up about an inch.

Thanks i'll look at bar-backs too. Just need to take the load off the shoulders on slow riding, town work etc.

I`ve just gone from std or c bars back to rs bars, The std bars take quite a lot weight off of the front wheel, the std bars were a godsend when my back was playing up though.
Ray

I'm using a simple, bolt-on, universal for BMW, 25mm 'higher' riser which does not move the 'bars back (except for the natural rearward position change due to their height difference from stock) and which fit our 22mm 'bar diametre. These are sufficient for me and my 176cm frame and allow the 'bars to fall naturally to hand. I'm also using an adaptor that extends the length of the bars internally to give me slightly better steering leverage. You can get the risers from Touratech and others. They clear the fairing and because they move the 'bars to a position just within the frame or sightline of the mirrors I have fitted the K1100RS mirror extenders, which I reckon should be retro-fitted to all K100RS models (currently on special offer from Motobins).

I decided against bar backs because they would exacerbate the remote-feel of the steering even further due to the rubber mounted handlebars. The dash pad has to have a bracket fabricated to allow you to continue to use it but it is easy if you simply drill a coupla small holes in the bracket you've cobbed together (mine is made from 40mm long x 15mm wide aluminium strap) and rivet it to the original mounting place. No hoses or cables were harmed or changed in the making of this upgrade. It's as solid as...

In combo they work a charm!