If anyone  ( like me )  has been reluctant to do the gearbox input spline lube, because 

!. My clutch feels fairly good anyway.

2. I havent done this before and it seems a big job

THEN DO IT.....

having done my rear main seal,  and lubed the input splines which were bone dry, I now have a really light clutch ,  which you will  appreciate when you are next stuck in a traffic jam.

Of course it helps to lube the operating arm bearings  ( grease nipple fitted ) and not forgetting the lever barrel.  

I had an annoying heavy click from my clutch, only to find the barrel was bone dry.

Bob

When I do a spline lube I take the barrel out of the clutch lever and wipe a bit of the Honda Moly 60 onto the barrel.   I also have an oil can with 15w40 in it on a shelf next to my bikes.  About every other time I take my bike out I put a small drop of oil on the barrel as well.

audibob wrote:If anyone  ( like me )  has been reluctant to do the gearbox input spline lube, because 

!. My clutch feels fairly good anyway.

2. I havent done this before and it seems a big job

THEN DO IT.....

Ugh, this is me. Clutch is heavy but not unmanageable, I'm blaming the cable.. Changes from 2nd to 1st are getting increasingly clattery though. Can I blame the cheap gear oil that's in there?

Check the clutch arm Jack. If the bearings are toast the arm will pull to one side and rub against the spigots. That leads to a really nasty heavy clutch. To detach the cable I put a large screwdriver against the inside base of the gearbox. Once the cable nipple is out of the fork, lower the screwdriver carefully to see if the clutch arm will move through the full arc. Don't allow it to snap back or smash against the exhaust system because you stand a chance of ripping the boot if you do. If the movement is stiff or limited, reattach the cable and try penetrating oil around the clutch arm pivots. If the stuff runs out rust-coloured, it's a good bet the bearings have collapsed. Changing them is a serious PITA; it would be faster and possibly better to ream the lot out and replace with oilite or similar. The previous owner of my clutch arm did just that.

Difficult changes especially in the lower gears are indicative of a dry clutch spline. If it were mine it would get attention very soon considering the clutches I have seen destroyed and the input splines worn so much as to be unusable.

As my bike came without the sidestand cable , I cut the length of my clutch actuating rod, and the operating
 
arm, so I could pull the rod  out past the exhaust,   But was still a pain in the ass to get get back in fighting against the return spring.

Eventually got round to putting a grease nipple in, makes life so much easier for the the sake of a couple of hours work.

If you put a grease nipple in, be careful because you  can run it too close to the gearbox casting which prevents 

the clutch arm going back to its rest position.

I nearly did on mine.

Bob