Hello,

Bought a 1990 K bike with no key.
Is it possible to somehow source a key code from the VIN? 

At the moment I'm just hot wiring it but I still can't get into the fuel tank.

TIA.

Frank

Try ringing your local dealer, it used to be possible to get a key cut from the number. If you can get one, get a couple of spares cut and keep one in your wallet and hide one on the bike. If you can't get one try this for opening your fuel cap. https://www.k100-forum.com/t9469-open-a-petrol-tank-cap-which-has-a-broken-lock#111842
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:Try ringing your local dealer, it used to be possible to get a key cut from the number. If you can get one, get a couple of spares cut and keep one in your wallet and hide one on the bike. If you can't get one try this for opening your fuel cap. https://www.k100-forum.com/t9469-open-a-petrol-tank-cap-which-has-a-broken-lock#111842
Regards Martin.

Awesome Martin,

Thanks for the info.  Well it looks like I'll be drilling the tank lid as it seems that I have a faulty fuel pump.  I have spark but no fire.  I unplugged the fuel pump electrical connector and it shows 12V when the ignition is on. Another wire at the plug shows 12V while it's cranking. But still no fire.  I took the plugs out and squirt in about 2cc of fuel straight into the cylinders then put the plugs back in and cranked it.  It started to fire and was hunting for awhile till the fuel ran out so I guess it's a new pump needed.

Where does everybody get there spare parts from?

Cheers,
Frank

I took an old gas tank with a couple of gallons of really old fuel in it to a locksmith.  They were able to pick the lock and then make me a key.  It cost me $40.  Fortunately they had a sense of humor about the old gas stinking up their whole shop.

SOU502 wrote:

MartinW wrote:Try ringing your local dealer, it used to be possible to get a key cut from the number. If you can get one, get a couple of spares cut and keep one in your wallet and hide one on the bike. If you can't get one try this for opening your fuel cap. https://www.k100-forum.com/t9469-open-a-petrol-tank-cap-which-has-a-broken-lock#111842
Regards Martin.

Awesome Martin,

Thanks for the info.  Well it looks like I'll be drilling the tank lid as it seems that I have a faulty fuel pump.  I have spark but no fire.  I unplugged the fuel pump electrical connector and it shows 12V when the ignition is on. Another wire at the plug shows 12V while it's cranking. But still no fire.  I took the plugs out and squirt in about 2cc of fuel straight into the cylinders then put the plugs back in and cranked it.  It started to fire and was hunting for awhile till the fuel ran out so I guess it's a new pump needed.

Where does everybody get there spare parts from?

Cheers,
Frank

I can assure you that drilling this hole works a treat. If your drill bit is a small bit bigger reduce the distance out from the pivot as there is a ridge that a bigger bit will hit.

I did that with my RT, then took cap apart and sorted it out. The swarf stays inside the cap, doesn't go in the fuel tank. You will see three screws on the underside of the lid when its open. Best bet is take off the cap and tape over the tank hole with masking tape.

If left sitting fuel pump dampers turn into Vegemite and hoses turn hard. Fuel hose used inside the tank needs to be rated EFI and submersible you will need to hunt around for hose at a reasonable price. I was quoted $100.00 a metre from Autobarn but got it online for $50.00 shipped. Try to use EFI hose clips not worm drive inside the tank at least not quite as important externally. Fuel pumps are available from Euro Moto Electrics but can be dear, some Ford and Commodore pumps can be used. As an experiment  and against advice I have since last July been running a Chinese copy which as yet has had no issues. Be warned not all Chinese pumps are created equal, I bought mine off a manufacturer. I do have my OEM in the tail as a backup. See http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10054.msg86054.html#msg86054
Regards Martin.

But it still tastes better than Vegemite.

Anything tastes better than Vegemite. I only use it as a grease substitute, I often wonder if I could use it as spline grease. Eureka, I might have hit on a solution for spline wear.
Regards Martin.

Thank you all for the valuable information,  Except for Duck's derogatory comment about Vegemite . Everybody know Vegemite is used down here as personal lubricant .

I am just about to drill the tank lid so I will get back to you on the results.

Thanks again,

Frank

Success!

Now I can take the tank lock in and buy a blank key and then cut it to suit.


Please don't tell me that Tank and Ignition use a different key.........

Unless it's been changed previously you should be right. Quite a few years ago I ordered a complete set of pannier locks from the UK. I was prepared to get them ground to take my ignition key, but I was surprised to find that it fitted with no modification required.
Regards Martin.

What Satanistic Alien Being inhabited my fuel tank?  This stuff is pure Evil.

It's revenge from the Brick gods in Valhalla, for leaving it sitting and using ethanol fuel. Don't waste it you can use it on your toast, spline or personal lubricant. Your choice, please don't send pictures of what you do. The inside of your tank will now be showing signs of the toast spread. Hopefully it has not showing one of the other signs pin prick holes, which can sometimes  be seen as paint blisters on the lower edge of the fuel tank. Caused by acid from the water ethanol mix.

To clean the signs gunk purchase enough white vinegar to cover the gunk and let it soak for a week, empty the vinegar back into their containers filtering out any lumps. Coffee filters or paint filters are good. Wipe out as much gunk as possible with rags soaked in vinegar, use and old blunt screwdriver and a rag to get into the nooks and crannies. Scotch pads and vinegar can be used to remove the stubborn bits. If it is really bad you can refill and soak again.

Before or after you do this get some nitrile gloves, if you use them before your hands will stay clean. If you use them after it will disguise the fact that you were a Wally and didn't wear them. Pinprick holes can be  epoxied soldered or welded. Welding is probably left to a professional, and although I have tried to solder aluminium it is yet to be successful.
Good Luck regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:It's revenge from the Brick gods in Valhalla, for leaving it sitting and using ethanol fuel. Don't waste it you can use it on your toast, spline or personal lubricant. Your choice, please don't send pictures of what you do. The inside of your tank will now be showing signs of the toast spread. Hopefully it has not showing one of the other signs pin prick holes, which can sometimes  be seen as paint blisters on the lower edge of the fuel tank. Caused by acid from the water ethanol mix.

To clean the signs gunk purchase enough white vinegar to cover the gunk and let it soak for a week, empty the vinegar back into their containers filtering out any lumps. Coffee filters or paint filters are good. Wipe out as much gunk as possible with rags soaked in vinegar, use and old blunt screwdriver and a rag to get into the nooks and crannies. Scotch pads and vinegar can be used to remove the stubborn bits. If it is really bad you can refill and soak again.

Before or after you do this get some nitrile gloves, if you use them before your hands will stay clean. If you use them after it will disguise the fact that you were a Wally and didn't wear them. Pinprick holes can be  epoxied soldered or welded. Welding is probably left to a professional, and although I have tried to solder aluminium it is yet to be successful.
Good Luck regards Martin.

Thanks Martin, Will do.

Guess who was a Wally?  It will NOT come off my hands. 
Now where do I get the extra bits on the fuel pump that would normally be changed from the old pump to the new pump? Mounting bracket and screen filter it looks like it once was.

Cheers,
Frank

MartinW wrote:If left sitting fuel pump dampers turn into Vegemite and hoses turn hard. Fuel hose used inside the tank needs to be rated EFI and submersible you will need to hunt around for hose at a reasonable price. I was quoted $100.00 a metre from Autobarn but got it online for $50.00 shipped. Try to use EFI hose clips not worm drive inside the tank at least not quite as important externally. Fuel pumps are available from Euro Moto Electrics but can be dear, some Ford and Commodore pumps can be used. As an experiment  and against advice I have since last July been running a Chinese copy which as yet has had no issues. Be warned not all Chinese pumps are created equal, I bought mine off a manufacturer. I do have my OEM in the tail as a backup. See http://www.motobrick.com/index.php/topic,10054.msg86054.html#msg86054
Regards Martin.

Euro Motor Electrics, Moto Bins, Motorworks, Beemer boneyard. For the damper and the filter screen you can also get the pump but it's a bit exy. China for the pump if you want to take the risk mine was about $36.00 see the link.
Others have used Falcon, Commodore, Corolla there are others from Euro cars that may fit. Try taking your old pump in a plastic bag to your local car wreckers.

Sometimes the Vegemited pumps can be resurrected by soaking in vinegar for a week or two then applying 12V briefly and reversing polarity back and forth. If it shows signs of wanting to move you can apply 18V briefly while switching polarity. Sandpaper or an angle grinder may help getting it off your hands but it might be less painful to just wear sparkly gloves and do a lot of Moon Walking. where in Vic are you situated.

Good luck regards Martin.

Haha too funny!

I have to buy 20 litres of white vinegar so I think I'll soak the pump and see if the mount is salvageable.

I'm in Stanley in North East Vic. It's very near to Beechworth. and 40km from Albury in NSW.

I've lived in Allens Flat near Yak and Wodonga and did a stretch in the army at Bandy. And wrote of my 48-215 off just before Wang and spent a week in Wang hospital. My girlfriend at the time was a nurse in the hospital, best time I've ever had in hospital.
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:I've lived in Allens Flat near Yak and Wodonga and did a stretch in the army at Bandy. And wrote of my 48-215 off just before Wang and spent a week in Wang hospital. My girlfriend at the time was a nurse in the hospital, best time I've ever had in hospital.
Regards Martin.

You're a legend..
What are you doing up in QLD?
I've had a long and varied past but right now I'm working at a winery.
Frank

Better question why are you still in Vic more Vics up here than Vic. I got sick of freezing to death in winter. Last job in Vic was offshore in Bass Strait on the rigs, bits used to freeze and drop off. Been in paradise for the last twenty years, slowly thawing out, I even wear shorts in winter which is all off 6 weeks long. I can ride all year long up here without having to resort to thermal ski gear.
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:Better question why are you still in Vic more Vics up here than Vic. I got sick of freezing to death in winter. Last job in Vic was offshore in Bass Strait on the rigs, bits used to freeze and drop off. Been in paradise for the last twenty years, slowly thawing out, I even wear shorts in winter which is all off 6 weeks long. I can ride all year long up here without having to resort to thermal ski gear.
Regards Martin.

I'm hearing you but I like the cold. Funny as I did 5 years in the mines in WA and cooked my ring off.
Cheers,
Frank

You might want to check out these bits for the Tank. at https://www2.munichmotorcycles.com.au/index.php?cPath=2804_1698_2198

If you chose to play with the pump, soak it in Kero and turn it over in the curved shaped bit if the case you can pressure squirt some wd40 to clean it and perhaps get enough gunk off to see the rollers, there is one missing in the circle so they have room to move. That is where you can use a skinny spike to carefully roll the rollers to free them, you may even be able to get the pump working without opening it.

K75cster wrote:You might want to check out these bits for the Tank. at https://www2.munichmotorcycles.com.au/index.php?cPath=2804_1698_2198

If you chose to play with the pump, soak it in Kero and turn it over in the curved shaped bit if the case you can pressure squirt some wd40 to clean it and perhaps get enough gunk off to see the rollers, there is one missing in the circle so they have room to move. That is where you can use a skinny spike to carefully roll the rollers to free them, you may even be able to get the pump working without opening it.

 Thanks for the advice. I've had computer problems so haven't been able to get on in a while.
I had a good look at the pump and it was shagged! I got a new one from the States. Those suspension mounts are just way over the top price wise. I've used tank breather hose to mount the pump to the plastic ring that holds it in place. What's the worst that could happen?

Cheers,
Frank

SOU502 wrote: I've used tank breather hose to mount the pump to the plastic ring that holds it in place. What's the worst that could happen?

The breather hose turns to Vegemite and the pump drops to the bottom of the tank cutting off the fuel supply while in the middle of passing a tandem lorry based on a close calculation ahead of a blind curve.

The hose, or whichever material you're using for the vibration damper/pump holder, should be fuel submersible. If it is, the pump should hang in there ok.

Laitch wrote:

SOU502 wrote: I've used tank breather hose to mount the pump to the plastic ring that holds it in place. What's the worst that could happen?

The breather hose turns to Vegemite and the pump drops to the bottom of the tank cutting off the fuel supply while in the middle of passing a tandem lorry based on a close calculation ahead of a blind curve.  

The hose, or whichever material you're using for the vibration damper/pump holder, should be fuel submersible. If it is, the pump should hang in there ok.

Yep, It's the breather hose that goes from the screen filter attached to the pump, up to the barb inside the fuel filler hole. I'm guessing it's made to be submerged in fuel so it should be ok.
So why does the screen at the pump pickup need a breather???

SOU502 wrote:So why does the screen at the pump pickup need a breather???

Need is too strong a word. It was a BMW component-protection strategy. Many riders are out there dodging fate without one. You can read something about it here, in your leisure.

It's been a long, strange journey from key cutting.

Not really. Key cutting. Opening the tank without a key. Bad vegemite. New pump. Pump screen.
Quite logical really.😊

So why does the screen at the pump pickup need a breather???

I've heard that it has something to do with reducing cavitation below the fuel pump.

I have no idea if that's true or not.

I'm not sure that line is a breather.  I have heard that it is part of the fuel return from the fuel pressure regulator.  I guess that what the engineers were thinking was that as long as filtered fuel is coming back from the rail, it might as well go back to the pump to help when the fuel level in the tank gets lower.  Thus helping to prevent the pump from sucking air.

Point-Seven-five wrote:I'm not sure that line is a breather.  I have heard that it is part of the fuel return from the fuel pressure regulator

Hearsay...........the fuel return pipe ends up inside the top of the tank and
isn't connected to anything else.

If you are mounting the pump using cable ties, be aware that some cable ties don't appear to be fuel resistant. Maybe the dear ones are but I have seen some harden and break. You can get stainless ties from Bunnings.
Regards Martin.

MartinW wrote:If you are mounting the pump using cable ties, be aware that some cable ties don't appear to be fuel resistant. Maybe the dear ones are but I have seen some harden and break. You can get stainless ties from Bunnings.
Regards Martin.

Thanks Martin,

I've got it in that suspension mount using in tank breather hose to support it. It fits between the rings on the pump. I doo have a heap of stainless cable ties so when my screen turns up I'll have a go at mounting it.

Good news is that I took the lock barrel in from the fuel tank and now have a key that fits it, the ignition and the helmet lock  Hoping for a engine start when the tanks back on.

See, thread came full circle