Hello all 

I have a question on removing the impeller from the shaft

I have removed the bolt from the shaft but i cant get the impeller to come free from the shaft 

The impeller is a cast type i dont need to keep it as i have brought a new one and shaft for the rebuild

Put a long bolt into the shaft and holding the pump in your hand tap the shaft through by tapping the end of the bolt. it should push the shaft out of the pump and release the impeller.

Thanks Rick 

Seems simple now but could not find the answer anywere

hang onto that shaft Mathew sounds like its one of the later ones

cheers
and merry christmas

Hello all

So Im about to start the reasmble on the water pump and need to get the gasket sealant

I have been looking at buying the threebond sealant but not sure which one is required 

www.threebond.com.au

The other option is the locktite superflex Blue RTU

And how much do you need to buy ?

Thank you for all your help

I'm pretty sure I have a tube of 1104 in the garage but I'm too lazy to go and look (it's pissing down outside). One 200g tube will last you for years. So far, mine's helped put together some dozen or more bikes over the last five years and it's still more than three-quarters full. It's even stopped ancient British bikes from marking their territory...

[Edit] Dammit, you made me go and look. It's a 200g tube of 1184 - search ebay.

If you can get Permatex in your part of the woods, then try Permatex® Anaerobic Gasket Maker (51817 for the 6ml size and 51813 for the 50 ml size).

whatever you use Mathew ....just a smear is all that is required on the pump housing , wait for it to start going off before introducing the 2 faces

then bolt it up with just enough force to seal the faces in a cross point fashion (ie one side then the other ), initially , then go around and tighten again once it has squeezed some out the faces .

leave for at least 24 hours after

I hear lately of many stories of too much sealant being used , some collecting into the oil lines with disastrous consequences  it seems particularly prevalent on k1100s

good luck

Hello all

Another quick question 

How do you torque up the impler bolt without pulling the shaft further though the seal ?

Im happy with all the clearences and the back of the drive gear is flush with the out side surface 
Plus the front face is close but not touching the housing

Im happy with the clearences the impler sit off.

But the impler bolt is not tight and what torque setting should this be ?

I have read in the threads that if you over tight you end up breaking ths seal

Once the shaft is pulled through the bolt only tightens the impeller to the end of the shaft and wont put any more stress on the seal.  tension 15-16ft/lb and the factory say to use red Loctite but I use the blue thread locking stuff because it is a bit easier to get undone when needed.

Thanks rick 

So i just keep doing the bolt up

Well I bont get my badge for fixing the water / oil pump first go 

I have oil leaking out the cable pathway hole for the water temp point

I belive that this must mean the pump block is not sealed against the engine block 

I have photo on my phone on the sealant used and how much was applied 

Looks like another oil change and coolant change

They are a bit finnicky like that. If you get the centre stand on a 2" block and tilt the front up you wont lose much oil if any.
I have had to do it twice a few times to stop the drips but it's usually the front plate.