Hi all,

I have a huge issue with clutch cables breaking.  They last maybe a few months tops, and then it's another $80 for a new cable.  They break at the lever side and they break the exact same way every time, half of the cable snaps off from the barrel connection.  Does anyone else experience this, and is there anything I can do about it?  I've looked for hours in the past for a different / better way to route the clutch cable and I can't find one.

Thanks!

This takes me back..
I had this problem years ago when I first had the k100. I found that the barrel was slipping sideways in the lever, and this meant that when the lever was pulled, the cable was out of line with the slot in the lever. The action of pulling the lever caused the cable to kink slightly just where it joined the barrel - as you pulled the lever it centred itself and so none of this was noticeable in use.

I ended up drilling and tapping the lever and fastening a M3 washer so's it retained the barrel. Problem completely solved.

Twenty-odd years later that particular clutch lever and its little washer are long gone. I've never had the same problem since, so I'd guess the levers were modified just a touch somewhere along the way. Or maybe there was a bad early batch? (Original bike was a very early '84)

OMG, look what I found!

Me and this clutch lever go WAAAAY back!




In fact you can see where I first chamfered the side of the slot to try and centre the cable without kinking it.

Worn lever is more than likely the problem. I have never replaced any of my cables on my 25 year old Brick. However against BMW policy I do lubricate them annually with a PTFE product called Triflow. Sold in bicycle shops for their cables. Don't ever lubricate with WD40 or it's like as they can cause The Teflon liner to break down. I also lubricate the levers and the barrel with spray lithium grease. The lower clutch arm is subject to road scum and water which can cause it to bind. The addition of a grease nipple is an easy modification, and the occasional application of a grease gun will push out all the crap and allow the arm to pivot easier reducing the strain on the cable and your hand.
Regards Martin.

Wear in the lever at the nipple seat, took the lever out one day and replaced with a new one. Now the nipple gets lubed every week and a check to see it rotates in its slot as you pull the lever. If it doesn't rotate the cable gets pulled out.

Cable breaks at the clutch lever end are not only a problem for K owners. My Husqvarna TE 610ie has the same problem. Solution is sorting out the alignment of the cable as it leaves the end of the outer sleeve but fitting a modified threaded adjuster and removing any sharp edges on the lever and lever bracket.
I second Tri-Flo lubricant - have used it since approx 1980. The lubricant effect lasts a considerable time.  I have seen other teflon spray lubricants more recently for sale as well.
Also second modifying your lower clutch release lever by fitting a grease nipple. Only a few tools needed - Motobins used to sell grease nipple modified lower levers, but at a price. If you fit this mod it gives you an opportunity to inspect your lower clutch lever mechanism. Take care with the delicate rubber boot - easy to rip. Replace the needle roller bearings on the pivot pin if they feel gritty. I machined a stainless steel pivot pin to replace the standard one. The lower release mechanism is highly exposed to dirt and water so it should be a regular item to inspect.