Hi all, just wondering if any of you have had luck with non-stock fuel pumps(in tank)? I read through some threads on here that give alot of info just looking to narrow it down a bit.
thanks for any help or tips.

Check this thread on the K11OG forum.

Inge K.

my toyota one as a replacement is still happy after 15,000 killometers

This is what I am using for a replacement, the foam thing and a pump as was suggested by Flying Duck on K11OG
http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/BMW-K-Parts-s/60.htm?searching=Y&sort=13&cat=60&show=20&page=1&search=%20foam

I used a fuel pump from a Peugeot 205 GTi 1.6i 1987-88 as a direct replacement on my 1984 K100RT. As yours is a newer bike your mileage might vary on this

My 1985 K100RT is running fine after getting a new 37mm fuel pump yesterday (FP-231 Kit, US$150 from EuroMotoElectrics). The kit came with wires, splices and spade terminals that replaced the ring terminals. The pump is stamped Walbro and "Made in USA". It's fitted to the 43mm damper ($60 - ouch) and original plastic ring from the 52mm pump. I got the 43mm damper because it was advertised to be more resistant to ethanol. Had to use a fuel filler neck hose to take up the gap.

[img]http://k100rt.aforumfree.com/[/img]

[img]http://k100rt.aforumfree.com/[/img]

charlie99 wrote:my toyota one as a replacement is still happy after 15,000 killometers

Charlie, any more data on the toyota pump? I like to put it on my list of possible spares.

The pump I am using in mine is an after market for a EA EB ED Falcon Multi point Sedan. Those cars run an L Jetronic system as do many other cars of the era

Ned wrote:

charlie99 wrote:my toyota one as a replacement is still happy after 15,000 killometers

Charlie, any more data on the toyota pump? I like to put it on my list of possible spares.

yes ned ...the bike is just over 189,000 now so that would make it 30,000 + ks along the road i guess

Hi there, as far as I know, any pump intended for in tank use on a car with fuel injection and similar power per cylinder will do it. All you have to do is solve the in tank fix and wiring. I am using a generic pump, wich is intended to be used on cars. I think that the pump is not even a positive displacement one but a centrifugal one and no problems for the last 16000km.
Best regards
JAP

I know there has been a lot pumps put foward. I thought I would share THIS PUMP .. It came with two styles of filter screens and a FOAM EXPANDER SLEEVE!! For around AUD $60 delivered I thought it was a good buy. over 100 razoos local!!

The contacts are for spade connectors. thats no biggie and the foam sleeve fits through the collar if you contort and stretch it a little.

In the box.

Foam sleeve

Just Fits

Well thanks a lot Alby, you just made me spend $61.99 on a Sunday morning.
I.ve always worried about tripping around the state with a second hand pump in tank, now I can carry a spare.
Nice pickup mate. (rear disc on the way $155 from Motobins).
RT

*&^%$%$&$!!....something else for me to be paranoid about when i ride to Vic.
Now I just KNOW I'll have to buy one...Alby!
" Why do you only have one spare t shirt and undies, Plunky? You have a whole sidecar there! "
Yeah, I know...but it's full of spares,,,final drive ....in case....clutch cable...throttle bits...fuel pump...kitchen sink...war and peace...

Many moons ago I had a fuel pump expire on me at a very inconvenient place and time. After the shock of the new price I raided a secondhand pump from a hasbeen old 90 model ford and made it fit the K it worked fineand I then replaced it with a new pump from the same model. When on the way to Araleun last year that pump died and I was able to get a replacement at a spare parts place in the boonies ans I was very glad that I did go with that ford pump as I was able to replace it easily. When I bought the K1100 I replaced the OEM pump with the ford pump for $50 and sold the still working OEM on fleabay for $85. So now I have an easily replaced cheap pump and made a profit on the original.

ahem ...just make sure thats the hardback version of war and peace sean (handbrake for the rig ?) gigles

*&^%$%$&$!!....something else for me to be paranoid about when i ride to Vic.
Now I just KNOW I'll have to buy one...Alby!
" Why do you only have one spare t shirt and undies, Plunky? You have a whole sidecar there! "
Yeah, I know...but it's full of spares,,,final drive ....in case....clutch cable...throttle bits...fuel pump...kitchen sink...war and peace...

Where does it stop, steering neck bearings?



marleydog

"Well thanks a lot Alby, you just made me spend $61.99 on a Sunday morning."

+1

charlie99 wrote:ahem ...just make sure thats the hardback version of war and peace sean (handbrake for the rig ?) gigles

Well of course!

My fuel pump stopped suddenly about five years ago.... I uncrimped the top of it with a pair of pliers, removed the internal, got down to the impellar at the very bottom, removed (it fell out) a small piece of rubber (mount)....
put it all back together with a new mount ..... Its been going strong since.

new gen ones are on sale on ebay UK for £63!!

Bit late to the thread, but just watned to add (since this thread comes up on ebay every time I search ), that in AUstralia, these fuel pumps (readily available at most parts stores) are almost a drop-in replacement for the K100 fuel pump (Note: the 52mm one, not the smaller..)

AC-Delco EP118AU
Goss GE053
Fuel Miser FPE-287.

I dropped the Fuel Miser variant into the bike this evening - $125 from repco. It's 51mm instead of the 52, so i cut a length of fuel hose into 4, and used two of them wrapped around the fuel pump where the 'lumps' are on the OEM one, and it all fitted up beautifully

good one rendrag

it really dont matter how it all happens mate ...just willing to share what worked for us ..all different, but all still going and bike is on the road huh ?

If you get a pump for an EA Falcon sedan with multipiont injection and use a big zip tie and pull it real tight it works like a charm and I got one on fleabay for $45. You need to change the connectors to the push on spade terminals.

Looking at the specs on that (using the Goss GE017 for reference), that'd be a perfect replacement for the newer (45mm) pumps

Any of the pumps designed to run the Bosch FI mid 80s to mid 90s will work fine.

Damn this peer group pressure......






Your order total
$61.99 AUD

lol klompy



mine cost 10 mins work and under $20 to get it out and paid for

not bad value for 42.000 killometers

K100 Fuel Pump.doc]K100 Fuel Pump.doc[/url]

Does this article help?

I have posted it some time back so it should be in the records This will take you to my 4shared site.

Newb question (please forgive my lack of in tank pump exp)

I just purchased a 91' k100LT...who is having an issue.

Strong start up, clean idle most of the time, but chokes out in 3k-4k range. Although in neutral on the center stand she can far exceed these RPM limits with no issue.

When I open the tank cap, I can see gas circulating around the bottom of the tank... Is it a correct assessment that fuel pump is operating correctly and I need to search elsewhere for my issue's culprit.


(Gonna change spark plugs, fuel filter, oil filter and oil, and air filter as I was told shes been neglected and didn't have straight forward maintenance history from previous owner)

I would be looking at the filter first but for a pump the early to mid 90s Mustang has a pump you can use.
Any pump that feeds the Bosch jetronic ot motronic FI will do the job.
You can get the sleeves to fit a reduced size pump from EME http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=foam he also has lots of other goodies at reasonable places.

I plan on getting the napa 3032 fuel filter suggested on the forum tomorrow!
Thanks Rick...I'm excited to get her going.

This is her naked...the guy before me did the MODs so far...I'll do the rest once she's running smooth.




So yesterday I installed the new NAPA 3032 fuel filter, New NGK DR7EA spark plugs left at the gap they came with (no screw on bobbins...can they be removed from the old XR5DC?) as well as fresh oil and K&N KN163 oil filter.

My plugs looked pretty black from the previous owner and I'm told that by the looks of them fuel injectors might be the culprit for my sever lack of power.




After the aforementioned maintenance was done, bike fires right up and idles way stronger.

But when I twist the throttle, there is a 1 sec "choking out delay" before she responds with a throttle increase. Other than the delay, she seems to run ok on flat ground.
She BARELY could go 5 MPH up a decent grade hill (throttle wide open, little or no response...unless I popped the clutch, then I get a jolt of power which would subside as the momentum dwindled....like a solid lady, no problems going down.

There are a few other things that raised my attention. The fuel pump is continuously making a high pitch "whistle" that can be heard with the engine running...the tank had about 1/3 tank of gas.

Does one of the gas lines coming out of the fuel pump remain unattached and just remain sitting in the bottom of the tank to syphon the gas?

I'm going to check the air filter now, and probably flush the radiator and change the coolant while I research the next move.

Next moves seem like:

1 Fuel Pump
2 Fuel Pump Regulator
3 Fuel injectors

Thoughts??javascript:emoticonp('')

Just fitted one today I got of ebay for £34. Pump is for a BMW 318 and works great. Took a bit of tweaking to fit as the connections are different but no biggie.

GMcQ

Hi Mike.
Rjtrucker on the site does a injector service for pretty cheap. He is in the states (somewhere) and does the full service.
Do a forum search for him or his service.

Thanks RossoKo, I'm going to contact him and at least get prices.

Here is a Video for it I just took for the gurus on here to help diagnose!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxCJjCYfjF4

No one else has mentioned it yet so I'll take a chance on making a fool of myself.
Think you have the wrong plugs in, Mike.
The R in DR7 stands for resistor and is meant for the 16v engines. You should be using D7's.
Having a resistor in this type of plug will give you a weak spark.
Might not be the answer, but it ain't going to help.
Always look for the cheapest fix first.

RossKo,
I pulled the injectors to send them to Rjtrucker today too. He will check them for $7 a piece. $15 a piece if they need to be cleaned.

Comber,
You might be on to something....I'm just gonna swap them for the bosch ones so there's no question.

I think after some reading it's the throttle position sensor as it doesn't "click" with the bike off when I twist the throttle. I still need to get the tank off and check the air filter too.

I'm getting in to this conversation a bit late so forgive me if something I put here is redundant.
My guess is that you are lean. I would disregard the TPS for the moment.
The pictures of the fuel movements in the tank may look suspect. I believe the Plastic Napa fuel filter is definitely wrong. The fuel should flow out of the pump into a metal "in line" (made for fuel injection pressure) can type filter.(Even those have been know to "burst" under injection pressures).
When exiting the filter it should flow on to the tank outlet fitting down to the forward end of the injector log rail. Through the fuel rail to supply pressurized fuel to the tops of the injectors, excess fuel out the rear of the rail, around the rear end of the throttle bodies and into the fuel pressure regulator. The pressure regulator provides the needed flow restriction to maintain the line pressure at about maybe 38 psi. Once pressure is built in the rail, a spring in the pressure regulator lets excess fuel to... then leave the pressure regulator, through the hose back to the tank return port. I'm not sure if the 91 contains a check valve to prevent fuel back flow when the hoses are removed for service or not. If it does, you may hear a slight buzzing or rattling sound at that area while fuel is flowing through back into the tank. (normal). Do not remove the check valve.
You must insure that there's no fuel squirting out at any of the fittings in the tank from the hoses for the filter, the filter itself, and that it's correctly plumbed in the correct direction of flow to the proper ports.
You need to install a (temporary) fuel pressure gauge in the hose between the fuel tank outlet pipe and the front of the fuel rail. Checking to see that you have about 35 psi - 50 psi. When you "Crack" the throttle,,,, vacuum in the sense line from the throttle body to the pressure regulator drops, allowing the regulator to raise the pressure. Hence, disconnecting the vacuum line to the regulator should cause a rise at the gauge. If all of that checks correctly, you could move on.
At Idle, You could spray something like carb cleaner all around all the rubber connectors between the airbox and the throttle bodies and between the throttle bodies and the cylinder head below them. I expect you have already tested the crankcase breather hose behind the rear of the throttle bodies for vacuum leaks. If all that checks out, You need to insure that the integrity of the large Elbow hose between the airbox flow meter outlet and the air intake plenum inlet are secure and leak free. There can be NO air leaks between the outlet of the Airflow meter (located in the top of the air filter box) and the manifold flanges at the top of the cylinder head.
Last, you should be sure that the oil fill plug is correctly installed & tightened so no air can enter there. If all that is correct, You should inspect the airflow meter itself to see that the rotating flapper door inside moves through it's entire range of travel open & closed with a nice light SMOOTH action with no tight spots or binding. I expect if all that can be checked & corrected the engine will be well.
As for the Ignition, I doubt if that is the problem. Just as a routine matter, You need to have the correct (non Resistor) spark plugs with the little screw on tips on the top. Beyond that the plug leads need to be VERY firmly twisted/pushed on to the plug tops with pliers and a LOT of hand pressure. These go on & come off really quite hard.
I'll be interested to see if you thoroughly re-check all these items and what is found.
Since it runs quite smoothly, I doubt if injectors are the failure but it's not inconceivable.
My number 1 bet is air ingestion somewhere between the air flow meter and the intake ports on the head. This would cause the airflow meter to not react correctly.
My #2 bet is low fuel pressure.
One should also verify that the Fuel injector main connector at the FI computer is getting the correct resistance readings from the coolant temp sensor. There are other portions of the forum that cover this.
I'm sure that others here may have a different view of what I've posted. Just trying to help.
Regards, ibj...

+10 on that ibj
The fuel pressure is 32 -33psi and the pump should be capable of pushing 65 psi, you can test the pump pressure by clamping the outlet of the fuel rail.
I have seen a badly clogged filter cause big problems, it will idle without very much pressure at all as the fuel will get sucked out of the injectors with the high vacuum but as soon as you rev it dies. That plastic filter is good dumpster food and they usually explode. dry the plugs off with a flame or put them in the oven if your game.
The check valve was only up till 85 then the return goes right to the top of the tank.
If you put a piece of hose on the top of the pump clamp it then turn the ignition on and when you push the start button the pump will run for 1.5 seconds if the engine doesnt start but in that time hold your thumb over the hose end with it inside the tank and the pressure should be high enough that you have a very hard time stopping the flow and it should be a very healthy flow not a dribble, that is a good indicator that the pump is OK.
MAKE SURE THE HOSE IS POINTING INTO THE TANK it is very supprising just how much fuel it will pump.
also check the tube that goes from the lower rear of the plenum (black plastic box above TBs) to the engine breather if that is cracked and falling to bits a big heap of air gets in there.

IBJ, I haven't several checks and procedures on your list, but will do it all as part of my education/earning my "k wings."

You guys are so forth coming with knowledge and desire to help the brotherhood! I will update as progress comes along.

My new K&N air filter came in today so I need to install it. The BMW one that was in it was pretty dirty. I'm still waiting on the CORRECT Bosch plugs from Amazon, and RJtrucker to receive my injectors which I mailed out a few days ago.

Special thanks to IBJman and Rick for expertise!

Just did my test ride on the bike and she's running strong!!!!

-new fuel pump (I built it for $17 instead of buying the $400 BMW one)
-cleaned injectors $60
-new throttle cable (upgraded to Bowden $30)
-clean all electrical connectors (including ECU) ($16 DeoxIT cleaner)
-new K&N air filter ($60)
-new K&N oil filter and oil ($30)
-replaced the throttle body vacuum plugs $2

It rides like a dream!!! I've never been on a shaft bike before