Just wondering how long I can expect the clutch to last and when It finaly does go do I need to replace all those 4-5 major pieces?
Thanks

Hi Chris I can't say specifically as it is probably a bit like how long is a piece of string but there is a thread here somewhere! that goes through the procedure and parts involved.
I also recall something about the '75's being a bit harder on the clutch than the 100 to the point that it can rip the centre out of the plate but that needs more clarification as it may not have been a genuine part.
The short answer is if it is not slipping it probably does not need changing or worrying about.

The clutch on a K bike is the same as an automotive clutch. How long a clutch last on a car?
It depends if you are always driving in traffic and how good or bad you are at shifting gears.

3 important points to consider to increase the longevity of the clutch:

-The splines on the clutch plate should be greased every 20K to 30K (This is my schedule but some people wait up to 40k).
-The clutch plate should be free of any oil. If you see any drip from the hole on the bottom of the clutch housing, it is time to check the seal on the output shaft. If you don't correct the problem, the clutch plate will be soiled by the oil and will need to be replaced.
-The push rod (#14) should always have a bit of play (adjustment of the clutch arm set by screw #10).



Bert

Maybe this can help with your confidence in the clutch. - I installed an engine from a 1989 K100LT in my 1988 K100rt in June 2008. When I purchased my RT the guy assured me a new clutch had recently been fitted. At the time of purchase the RT had 128,000 km's on the clock. I did quite a bit of touring in Victoria 2-up and fully loaded in the first 18 months of owning the bike but the output shaft was noisy (loose rivets - ex police bike). When I exchanged the engine at 147,000 km's I examined the clutch plate and the lining was measured at 5.4mm thickness (suspect 5.5mm new), and the BMW part number (in whte marking) was still visible on 1 side of the lining face, I kid you not !
To put it into perspective, the clutch plate is pretty much identical to that in an early VW beetle, and with K bikes being relatively low geared in first gear, the clutch is likely to last a very long time, unless you feel the need to thrash it by slipping the clutch and taking off in second gear to make the K reach the stated 100 K in 3.9 seconds, which by the way is both achievable and still respectable, even by today's standards. Long live the K bike I reckon !
Hope this helps.

Sorry Bert, I was busy typing while you posted a reply. Obviously we both allude to the same thing regarding the durability of the clutch, just that (even at 51 years age) the boy racer still manages to surface in me at times, as long as the risk is low.
Dennis

Thanks boys, I'm going to be in there this winter when I tear it all down so just making a list of parts and procedures so I have everything on hand.