Can anyone give advice regarding the removal technique of the stem from the lower fork clamp, my on has moved due to fork damage and is a few degrees off centre, and not square with two fork clamp holes, I have check runout with daily gauge and a square. I would like to remove cleanup, check stem for straightness and reinstall. Is it threaded or an interference fit, there does not appear to be any circlip.

Hi Bunya. Not sure which parts you're referring to. Can you identify them in this parts drawing.

Also what model/year bike is yours. If you can throw up the last 7 digits of your VIN, this will help.

Cheers

Item 1 lower triple it has the stem pressed into it, would like to remove the stem

I've never had the stem and lower triple clamp apart and I don't remember reading anything in the manual about those parts separating. I'd guess its an interference fit and If it's bent I'd suggest finding another from a wrecker.
Others may have had a different experience with that.

Why do you need to remove it to see if it's straight? Why not place the fork tree on a flat level surface and use a square to see if the stem is perpendicular?

The Clymers manual does say that BMW recommend that to remove the lower head bearing to press the stem out to get the bearing off the stem but when I saw that I thought WHAT you gotta be kidding all that will do is after three changes make it more likely the stem would move.
Message here: yes it can be done would I do it, definitely no unless it absolutely had to be done in unusual circumstances.
If a new clamp/stem is needed I doubt a stem would be easy to find so replace the whole thing. Any engineer worth his salt will tell if it's bent without removing it.

The stem can be separated from the triple clamp by pressing it out with an hydraulic press. That's the way you change the lower bearings by the way.
If the stem is not aligned with the tubes above the clamp; don't bother to remove it, change the assembly. It's very probable also that the tubes are bended and that you'll have to change them.

Has anyone here actually done this? I've changed plenty of steering head bearings, but not the K. Chris Harris has a youtube video where he heats the bearing shell with a gas burner. I won't say I've never had trouble getting them off, but I've never failed to remove the bottom bearing. I think it would probably be easier to press the stem out, then press the bearing off, but as Rick said, how many times can you do that. Mind you, I've had the bike 14yrs and not done it, so if I got two more changes out of it, that would probably do it!

I've only followed Chris Harris's video. A bit involved but easy.

To get the bearing off you drive a fine knife blade under the dust shield then a thick blade then a couple of levers, one each side and lever it off. It works well and is very easy and the dust shield is left intact. There is absolutely no need to press the stem out.
If there is a complicated way to do something BMW will go to extraordinary lengths to find it and then say it is the only way.

I've changed many bearings on Ks, and if it can be done without press, it's so simple and easy to do with that it's a pity to proceed the hammer way. You just have to cut two tubes to make tappets.
No mechanical or thermic stress on new bearings, it saves time, the clamp surface and the dust plate. You just need to heat a little bit the clamp and to lubrify it to ease the separation.
The stem is locked in the clamp with fine grooves that ensure it won't move: you have to pay attention when refitting the stem that the grooves face one to one, and of course that the lock window is a the same place than before, don't ask why.
If you don't have press, I suppose it can be done by simply wrenching on a long screw.

Since the point of getting the bearing off is to replace, I don't care if I destroy the old bearing in the process. I lever off the outer race shell and remove the ball bearings leaving the inner race shell. Then, I take a Dremel cutoff wheel and cut as much into the bearing shell as possible without nicking any other parts of the stem; most of the time this is on the diagonal. Then a strike with a cold chisel and its off.

I've never had need for pressing out the stem for any reason.

Wot Rob says. Except that I'm a bit more brutal and use an angle-grinder with a cutting disc.

Holister wrote:I've only followed Chris Harris's video. A bit involved but easy.

Just completed new bearing replacement using Chris Harris's youtube video, put stem in freezer over night, heat up bearing a little , put cold stem on level bench, drop on dust seal , drop on hot bearing , put on some grease. Works a treat 

Levered the old one off the Rick G way   easy