I have the valve cover and bottom end covers off and all the fasteners  can see off the timing case cover. Do I remove the two fasteners holding the hall effects sensor plate and put it out of the way then just carefully pull the timing case off or is there a trick? And is there any timing needed when I put the hall effects sensor back on?

Scribe a mark on the timing plate before you remove it.
Be aware, there are two small half moon washers under the timing plate on the  two fixing screws. Note how they are positioned
Pull the oil pressure wire out leaving a trace wire so the oil wire can be pulled back thru when reassembling. The timing chain cover won't come away with the oil wire in place.
Just hang the oil wire and timing plate and wiring up out of the road.
Follow your manual's instructions on getting #1cylinder to tdc BEFORE removing the chain.
When undoing the timing cover bolts, untension them all a ¼ turn before undoing them completely otherwise the last bolt may bind and you could strip the bolt head trying to remove it.

Cheers

You need to remove the hall sensor plate and then you see 3 small allen scews that hold the metal cup onto the end of the crankshaft. Remove the 3 screws and carefully remove the cup (it can be bent easily). You can then remove the 14 screws that hold the cover and remove it.

in addition to ricks suggestion

the hall effect  "cup " that fits between the vanes of the hall effects ...is located by a small spigot in the base to get it located correctly on the crank shaft

so no worries about that bit at all

good luck

Don't forget the trace wire.

I did it right the first time and total forgot about it second time ... after I had put the thin wipe of RTV blue silastic on the cover and then got distracted...beer

It is possible but a PITA to thread a trace / pull wire through from the bottom. Use thin tie wire (thinner than coat hanger wire) and hook it through then tape it up (cable ties will catch)

Also, having pulled the rubber boot off the bottom of the oil pressure switch wire it is difficult to get it back over the circular (washer shaped) end of the wire. 

My solution to this was to snip two cuts into the small end of the boot (at say 9 and 3 o'clock) and then the boot will slide over it easily. Not sure how water proof it is

Guy

Any pics of this pump wire, where it attaches and possibly a trace wire in place? I don't know where it is since the cover is still on. I'll be doing it this weekend. Thanks all for the replies! You blokes always make these projects go smoothly!

I doubt there are any pictures around of that. Its really not a crucial part of the teardown process. Its just that you won't be able to totally remove the timing chain cover untill you pull the oil pressure wire out first. Pulling the wire out is easy.... threading it back thru afterwards is not so easy.

Here's a 1,000 words instead.

1. Detach the wire from the oil pressure sensor located on the oil/water pump beneath the front of the engine and remove the rubber boot from the end of the wire.
   
2. Fix another piece of wire about 50cm of similar gauge to the end of the oil pressure wire using electrical tape. Make sure its secure.
   
3. Remove the 'T' shaped timing cover and locate the oil pressure wire which dissappears thru a hole at the bottom.
   
4. Carefully jiggle this wire up and out pulling the trace wire with it but leaving the trace wire running thru the casing.
   
5. Detach the oil pressure wire from the trace wire.
   

After you remove the timing plate and cup, all the wiring from behind the 'T' shaped timing cover will come away when you remove the rubber grommet at the top. After you've removed the bolts from the larger timing chain cover, that cover will pull off over the trace wire leaving the trace wire running thru the engine casing. This is used to pull the oil pressure sensor wire back thru after the covers have been repalced.

So, reason for the trace wire is due to the pump wire being too short to be easily threaded back thru the hole upon reassembly then mate?

Not too short: you'll be trying to jiggle a female spade connector back through the timing cover and it's going to snag on every tiny flaw in the casting that it can find.

Ah ha, so it's one of those. Got it.

Replaced all the guides, tensioner and chain. The old tensioner rail, top guide, and chain were noticeably worn. The old chain was about 6mm longer than the new one. Maybe a little more....and the tensioner guide was noticeably worn in. Not horribly, but worn. The tensioner was almost all the way to the last ratchet grove as well, now it is seated maybe one click out. The pics of the cams make it look a little off but they are straight up....as they were when I took it apart this morning.

good work

have fun

From those of you who have done this before. Does this all look right timing wise? The manual is VERY vauge about the timing marks on the case for the crank, as well the pictures in it are very unclear to be honest.

That looks OK although the exhaust is leading a bit (4°) but I don't think it could be changed to be any better.

RicK G wrote:That looks OK although the exhaust is leading a bit (4°) but I don't think it could be changed to be any better.

These pics make it look a tad bit worse than it actually is, but I noticed that when I took it apart. You'll noticew my little scribe marks show it was off a tad when it was marked when I took it apart. It ran great before aside from the chain noise at start up.

I have rarely seen any engine that comes up spot on with the cam timing. I have at times messed about with swaping or turning the sprockets the other way out to get the timing closer. Even if the inlet can ends up a touch advanced is better than the exhaust being retarded. Also I reckon that reversing the sprockets will extend the life of a second chain because there is a good fit to the sprocket rather than the slightly worn side where the chain ran previously. Be careful because I have seen the locating pegs anything up to 1/2 a tooth out.

Before replacing the components, I brought the engine to tdc and marked those sprocket indicators. As far as it looks after replacement they are back to where they were within less than a degree.

It's possible to remove the timing chain off the sprockets by just losening them enough to slide the chain out from between the sprocket and engine casing. 
The sprockets can only position on the shaft in one position relatively. There's no adjustment a few degrees either way. What is important is that your camshafts don't move at all and at TDC that's unlikely.

I found it all to be a be a bit fool proof except for managing the tensioning mechanism back in correctly.

Good! Then I guess I'll slap it back together tomorrow and fire it up.

It fired right up as if it ran a few hours ago. I am very happy that I can now get some sleep!

I now just have to mess about topping fluids for the rad and maybe a tad bit of oil and I'll go for a much needed and wanted shake down ride. THANKS ALL for all the help and advise! I could NOT have done this without all of you!!!

Many thanks you are a lot of brilliant blokes!

Kev

Close to 5 months on and still running as if new!