Hello!

In The moment I'm doing some electric maintenance, under the tank and anything I can find.
I'm using electrical contact cleaner contact 60 (about the same like DeoxIT) and to finish dielectric grease.
We have some snow and I can't ride, so I have to do something with the bike :-)
Afterwards Sauna & therm

I'm not sure what this sensors are
Picture 1 this must be the water sensor!?




Picture 2 is this the drain plug (number 2) and (number 1) the oil pressure sensor?!
For draining I normally unplug the water hose and not the drain plug.



If you have any tips what more/else to do, I'll be glad to hear you!


Thanks for your help
Cheers espresso

yes correct on both

note

you have a little oil at the bottom of the tell tale hole (from the oil- water pump )  you can see it on the leading edge of the sump




you have a leaking oil seal.....or just not cleaned up properly

keep an eye on it

you may have to replace the water and oil seals in the water pump housing in coming months of riding

have fun !!

There are two water temp sensors on a K-bike.  One sensor is in the stand pipe [the one depicted in your first photo] on the left front of the block and is used to feed the temperature relay and the ECU engine temperature information.  

The other water sensor is installed on the water/oil pump housing in the drain hole [depicted in your second photo] and is used to supply information for the optional water temperature gauge.  The single wire is fed through the pump housing, follows the hall sensor lead under the "T" plate and exits the block along with the hall sensor cable on the left front of the block.  This connector would attach to the harness for the additional instruments, if installed.  Part 4 in the diagram below:

# Thanks Charlie, The picture isn't from me, 
but I still have drops coming out and reoaired the water-oil pump!
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# thanks robmack, now I understand, helpful your explanation!

Cheers espresso

My explanation is flawed in one place, and I apologize. The electrical device in Photo 2 is the oil pressure switch as Charlie correctly pointed out. The optional water temp sensor would replace the coolant drain plug, if it was present.

robmack wrote:… The optional water temp sensor would replace the coolant drain plug, if it was present.

Ah, that makes sense, I wondered, why there isn't a cable, it's optional :-)

Cheers

Beware of the Coolant Temperature Sensor (See Chocolate's photo 1 above). I spent 2 months chasing a fault where engine started and ran well for about 5 minutes then shut off, not to restart until comparatively cool again. In my search for the problem I checked virtually all electrical and fuel injection system components and wiring. I fitted a new coolant temperature sensor incorrectly assuming that it was 100%. Turned out not to be so. I removed the "new" sensor and tested it and found that one of the two connector pins going to the wiring was giving me an 80X greater ohm reading than it should be. I tested the "old" sensor and got correct readings. I then cleaned the metal washer and face of the coolant temp sensor housing, refitted it and Problem solved. (Incidently, one pin connects to the EFI Computer and the other pin to the Temperature Sensing Switch/Relay that switches on and off the radiator fan. In future if I am fitting a new electrical component where possible I will test it before fitting. I don't want to spend several months off the road again...although learned heaps while chasing down the fault

Good result. We should see you at the Northern Tablelands Run in Nov then... just up the road from you. 

redrockmania wrote:Beware of the Coolant Temperature Sensor (See Chocolate's photo 1 above). I spent 2 months chasing a fault where engine started and ran well for about 5 minutes then shut off, not to restart until comparatively cool again. In my search for the problem I checked virtually all electrical and fuel injection system components and wiring. I fitted a new coolant temperature sensor incorrectly assuming that it was 100%. Turned out not to be so. I removed the "new" sensor and tested it and found that one of the two connector pins going to the wiring was giving me an 80X greater ohm reading than it should be. I tested the "old" sensor and got correct readings. I then cleaned the metal washer and face of the coolant temp sensor housing, refitted it and Problem solved. (Incidently, one pin connects to the EFI Computer and the other pin to the Temperature Sensing Switch/Relay that switches on and off the radiator fan. In future if I am fitting a new electrical component where possible I will test it before fitting. I don't want to spend several months off the road again...although learned heaps while chasing down the fault

yes indeed red ...been there myself

good win indeed

Difficulty is also that the temp sensor grounds through the coolingwater stub on the block. If the sensor can't properly connect to 'ground' through it you can have issues as well.

ReneZ wrote:Difficulty is also that the temp sensor grounds through the coolingwater stub on the block. If the sensor can't properly connect to 'ground' through it you can have issues as well.

I have been trying to figure out why my bikes are running so rich.  While I have the engine for my RT out I think it will  be a good idea to clean the mating surface between stub and block.  Might even add a grounding wire from the stub mount screw.  There is a lot of dirt and corrosion around there.  Easy jobs while the engine is out.