BMW K bikes (Bricks)


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1Back to top Go down   kill switch turn on blowing fuses Empty kill switch turn on blowing fuses Wed Mar 09, 2016 10:52 pm

tonysuburb

tonysuburb
New member
New member
When I turn the ignition on, the lights go on, horn works, signal flashers work, headlight works.  Then I turn the kill switch to prepare to press start button and the top fuse blows.  I heard that the circuit runs through the rear brake, front brake and then kill switch.   What should I be looking for?
Much appreciated.  1985   K 100    35,000 miles.

    

2Back to top Go down   kill switch turn on blowing fuses Empty Re: kill switch turn on blowing fuses Wed Mar 09, 2016 11:37 pm

Rick G

Rick G
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Hi Tony welcome to our Knuthaus

Unplug the clutch, front and rear brake switch and remove the bulb monitoring unit and also turn of the heated grips and unplug fuel and temp gauges if you have them. If it still blows the problem is in the wiring harness. If all is OK then plug them back in one by one and see when the fuse blows and that will tell you where the problem is.
kill switch turn on blowing fuses Relay_11


__________________________________________________
"Man sacrifices his health in order to make money.
Then he sacrifices money to recuperate his health.
And then he is so anxious about the future that he does not enjoy the present; the result being that he does not live in the present or the future; he lives as if he is never going to die, and then dies having never really lived."   Dalai Lama


Bikes 1999 K1100 LT with a Big Block 1200
    

3Back to top Go down   kill switch turn on blowing fuses Empty Re: kill switch turn on blowing fuses Wed Mar 09, 2016 11:39 pm

duck

duck
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My first guess would be that the green/yellow wire from the kill switch or one of the items it feeds is shorting somewhere due to worn insulation or some other issue.
 
Here’s a link to an early K100 wiring schematic that you may find helpful:

http://www.kbikeparts.com/classickbikes.com/ckb.tech/0.ckb.tech.files/kwiring/Early%20K75%20K100/K100_Early_Wiring_Diagram.jpeg


__________________________________________________
Current stable:
86 Custom K100 (standard fairing, K75 Belly pan, Ceramic chromed engine covers, paralever)
K75 Frankenbrick (Paralever, K11 front end, hybrid ABS, K1100RS fairing, radial tires)
86 K75C Turbo w/ paralever
94 K1100RS
93 K1100LT
91 K1
93 K75S (K11 front end)
91 K75S (K1 front end)
14 Yamaha WR250R
98 Taxi Cab K1200RS
14 K1600GT
http://www.ClassicKBikes.com
    

4Back to top Go down   kill switch turn on blowing fuses Empty fixed the short Thu Mar 10, 2016 1:51 pm

tonysuburb

tonysuburb
New member
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I found a bundle of wires under the tank that had been pressed against the top of the frame and wore through.  the black wire and green/black wire were burned through.  I did a re-splicing, shrink wrapping and the bike fired right up again.  But....now the neutral indicator light stays on and the brake indicator red light stays on.  All this after I re assembled the RT fairing.

    

92KK 84WW Olaf

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The red brake light should stay on until you have pressed both front and rear brakes.

If it doesn't go out then one or other of these may have disconnected. The front brake switch connector is under the tank, to the right hand side beside the frame tube.......Rear is behind the down tube over the alternator and accessible with the tank in place.

These switches are not the best but since you have been in at the connections so recently I would suspect check the connections first, start by making sure rear light bulb is working, then check rear brake pedal activates brake light, then front brake lever. If no joy then maybe some wires crossed?


__________________________________________________
1992 K100LT 0193214 Bertha Blue 101,000 miles
1984 K100RT 0022575 Brutus Baja Red 578 bought 36,000 now 89,150 miles
1997 K1100LT 0188024 Wotan Mystic Red 689 58,645 now 106,950 miles Deceased.
1983 K100RS 0011157 Fricka 606 Alaska Blue 29,495 miles Damn K Pox Its a Bat outta Hell Now 58,200 miles. 
1996 K1100LT 0233004 Lohengrin Mystic Red 38,000 miles currently 51,800 miles.
1983 K100RS 0004449 Odette R100 colours 58,000 miles. Sprint fairing now 63,390 miles

Past:
1968 Yamaha 80 YG1
1971 Yamaha 125 YAS-1
1968 Honda 125 SS
1970 Honda CD 175
1973 Honda CB500-4
Honda CX 500
    

Holister

Holister
Life time member
Life time member
"if it doesn't go out..."  the brake bulb could be blown also

The Green/Black would be the feed from F#1 to BMU so that why your F#1 was blowing. Now that's sorted, your BMU is working. You get a warning if the brake bulb blows but the warning shows when ignition first goes on which will then cancel when you activate both front and back brake switches. This ensures both brake switches are working.


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1989 K100RT     VIN  0097367 (naked)  
1996 K1100RS   VIN  0451808
 kill switch turn on blowing fuses Austra12    Fuel:  95 Octane
Engine Oil: Nulon Full Synthetic 15W50
Gear Box Oil:  Nulon Synthetic 75W90
    

tonysuburb

tonysuburb
New member
New member
All the brake lights work.  Neutral light now stays on and no indicator for gear shift.   will work on it again tomorrow.  I'm happy to have it running.   Thanks.

    

Holister

Holister
Life time member
Life time member
Gear Position Switch is located at the back of the gearbox (difficult to get to). But something easy to check is the 4 pin connector which is located behind the R/H sidecover. Try some DeoxiT on the connections. Without a proper earth connection there it will not send any signal to the display.
Have a read of this and test the GPSw at that side connector. Its common the switch gets water in it and corrosion develops.
Also, test for earth connectivity back thru the harness (brown wire to earth).


__________________________________________________

1989 K100RT     VIN  0097367 (naked)  
1996 K1100RS   VIN  0451808
 kill switch turn on blowing fuses Austra12    Fuel:  95 Octane
Engine Oil: Nulon Full Synthetic 15W50
Gear Box Oil:  Nulon Synthetic 75W90
    

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