Hi All,
I bought a 1991 K100RS 16v with ABS a few weeks back. I also own a Harley Superglide but wanted something a bit more fun for riding at a quicker pace  .
The original idea was to build a sort of 'cafe racer' from it, but after riding it a few times I really got to like it and now I'm not sure if converting it is the right thing to do.
I have now started to strip the bike down, mainly to give it a proper clean. While I have everything off I will install some clip-ons just to see if I like the riding position. For this to be road legal I have also ordered a headlight and turn-signals. However, now I have quite a few other issues that also need to get resolved before I can take the bike on the road again. It's important to me to keep the option of bringing it back to original though.

I do have a few questions and if anyone can offer some help with these I'd be grateful:
1) Lots of loose cables and bits hanging off the front end that need a new home, such as the horns, temp gauge, fuel gauge, etc. Any ideas where to place these?
2) I tried to take off the air filter box so that I can clean the engine properly but the screw mounting it on the engine housing doesn't want to budge. I'm afraid it will break with too much force. I thought of applying some heat with an electric heat gun but that won't really work because of the air filter box. Any idea how to get it off?
3) I was considering replacing the brake hoses but then read in the Clymer manual that bikes with ABS need to be bled by a BMW dealer (power bleeding?). Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

Many thanks.

Welcome!  Nice looking bike.

Bleeding is straightforward. 

Make sure you have enough fluid in the reservoir so you don't suck any air.  11mm or 7/16 wrench to open the bleeder. 

Start at the ABS modulator, then on to the calipers once you are getting clean fluid.  Open bleeder, apply brake, close bleeder, release brake. 

Make sure you have a large towel on the tank when you do the front brakes in case of spills.  When you are done give the bike a good rinse with lots of water to flush any spilt fluid.  Whole job, front and back should take about a half hour and less than a pint of fluid.

Point-Seven-five wrote:Welcome!  Nice looking bike.

Bleeding is straightforward. 

Make sure you have enough fluid in the reservoir so you don't suck any air.  11mm or 7/16 wrench to open the bleeder. 

Start at the ABS modulator, then on to the calipers once you are getting clean fluid.  Open bleeder, apply brake, close bleeder, release brake. 

Make sure you have a large towel on the tank when you do the front brakes in case of spills.  When you are done give the bike a good rinse with lots of water to flush any spilt fluid.  Whole job, front and back should take about a half hour and less than a pint of fluid.

Thanks, I'll give that a try.

WelKome Heri.
If its just temporary, disconnect the gauges and tuck the wires under the tank. They aren't really necessary anyway. If you're going to go naked or cafe eventually they're probably going to be surplus to requirements anyway.
I bolted my horns to the front of the bottom triple clamp.

There's already been lots of discussion on bleeding brakes. Try using the 'search forum' box on the forum tab. But I've always bled my brakes by pumping the brake till firm and hold, then open the bleed nipple to release fluid. Close nipple and release brake.... repeat
There are vacuum devices on eBay pretty cheap.

My advice is don't mess with the bike too much. Just get on and ride it. It's a nice thought to have a clean engine under the air box but in 6 months time it'll be just as dirty and you won't  give a damn. It's not a Harley that you take out just on the weekend when the sun is shining. This is a bike you'll ride rain or shine and take on long trips. Enjoy.

Here's a link off the Portal page you should read..
http://www.verrill.com/moto/newkbike.shtml

Welcome Heri, & good luck with your bleeding (somehow that sounds bad)  

Everyone here is most helpful

Cheers from Canada